Hello,
I have a ton of the extreme bullets 150gr flat point/flat base bullets laying around that I'd like to use as a cheap option for fire forming some brand new brass. I've used them for 300blk but they don't seem to be made for shooting at normal 308 velocities. I want to avoid inflicting any unneeded wear on my barrel.
I have imr 4064 and imr 4320. I read where it can be hazardous to create loads at less than the "min" published weight. Is there a good option for me using the components on hand to fire form the new brass? Or is it simply a myth and I should just save my time and powder by jumping directly into load development with the good bullets I want to use?
A secondary use I might get out of the load if it shoots halfway decent would be a light recoil load for new shooters and a way to burn up these bullets and get some use out of a bunch of military brass I never use.
Thanks!
Grab a copy of Richard Lee's Modern Reloading Vol. II.
He lists a 1-grain calc factor for anything safe to do so. Essentially let's you pick your velocity and load to it. I used the snout out of it for very reduced 25-06 loads with 760/414; great for the kids to practice.
I'm a firm believer in the theory that if it bleeds, I can kill it.
"Light Loads" do not produce a well fire formed case.
What are you fire forming, parent case, formed case ?
New Lapua 308 brass. Just fire forming it to my gun's chamber. As it is brand new, I'll be using the full resizing die on the first loads and then just neck sizing after that.Originally Posted by short round
thanks!
One reason we pay more money for Lapua brass, it is ready to load right out of the box, without any prep. If you want your cases fire formed to your chamber, why full length size a case that doesn't need it to a SAMMI size you don't want anyway? Fire forming loads need work up just like any other reloads, and the process is considered "advanced", rather than basic reloading, so proceed at you own risk.
I have worked my fire forming loads up with powders that produce the most pressure per volume, with the bullit touching the lands. I know I've got it right when I can see chamber tool marks in the case:-). Right "scope"?:-)
Proceed with caution ... Be Safe ... Jim:-)
Hmmm I suppose it makes sense to only do a full re-size if they don't chamber. Do you recommend just starting with a load ladder right off the bat, the first time the new brass is fired?
I always try to gain information from every round I fire. If I record what happens when I shoot virgin brass, at least I know what it will do if I have to go that route for hunting rounds, etc. I only start the OCW work up with fire formed brass.
With your flat based bullets its a good idea to at least neck size your brass, if not F/L. Brass (even Lapua) gets knocked around in shipping and handling. Case necks become oval shaped, mouths deformed, dented etc. Kinda difficult to push a round bullet into a oval shaped case mouth. In addition, out of the box Lapua brass will have a noticeably smaller neck diameter when compared to sized brass again making it difficult to seat bullets without 1st re-sizing. Pistol bullets, also flat based, are loaded into flared case mouths. You can benefit by paying careful attention to your chamfering step when loading flat based bullets.
Last edited by gotcha; 08-13-2015 at 11:25 PM.
..and use a VLD 22 degree chamfer tool to debur the inside of the necks instead of the common 45.
Bill
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
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