Started working on a ladder test for the .260 I just finished... ran out of time but first two groups look decent.
Virgin lapua brass, 42.5 and 43 gr. of IMR 4350, CCI #200 primers, 129gr Accubond LR's. Shot from 115 yards, bipod and rear bag off table top.
42.5 grains
43 grains
Thinking as the load gets "hotter" groups should shrink a bit... if not I'll be shopping for some 140gr A-Max's
How much neck tension are you using?
How far off the lands are you?
I dont show 129s in my book but the 130s show 45g as max id go 44,44.5 and 45 if they dont tighten up id move on to the Amaxes....also they show RL-19 as the most accurate powder tested for the 130s.
Nosler's on-line load data (only place I could find info on the 129gr ABLR's since they are a fairly new product) has IMR 4350 starting at 42 to start, 46 as max. I already have the rest loaded from 43.5 on up to max at 46. Currently sitting pretty far back off the lands (I'm away from home and don't have the exact number here, but there is still a lot of room to play with). My plan is to shoot the remaining loaded rounds to fire form the brass; pick the most accurate grouping and use that charge as the load for the next batch where I will load another 50 rounds with varying lengths/distance to lands. Sort of messing with each variable one at a time rather than adjusting more than one thing at once. With the case prep on the brass I FL sized, ran through the length trimmer then chamfer/deburr, did flash hole uniforming and deburring as well; so I haven't messed with the neck tension at all (other than any slight shift from the resize). That variable will be "messed with" later
So for a guy having say a standard set of RCBS full legnth dies, how would he go about messing with neck tension?
Im sure there are guys here anxious to hear about how thats done, including me lol.
the cheapest way would be with a lee collet die and a redding body die...personally id order a forster FL die have the neck honed to where you want and have the appropriate expander balls made...$80 bucks and you have a custom FL die that you can adjust neck tension with.Originally Posted by yobuck
By removing the expander ball and neck turning (by adjusting the thickness of the brass you change the ID). You can also file/sand down the expander ball but neither of those two methods are a very accurate way to do it. If I decide I need to "mess with" neck tension will likely be getting a lee collet or redding bushing type; like I said I haven't even started into that variable, not quite sure I'll even really need to at this point. After finding out where the barrel likes to be on the powder weight, and then finding out where it likes the bullet to be off the lands (and then probably fiddling with the powder weight again) if I'm not where I want to be then the neck tension may get boogered with; or I may just switch to another bullet weight/mfr. and start all over... the ABLR's are somewhat of an experiment as I haven't seen anyone here shooting them yet and wanted to see what they could do. If they stink then I'll go with the 140 A-max or 142 SMK as they seem to be pretty well liked by most folks on here.
142g SMK has been hands down the better shooter in 4 barrels for me...and yes ive given the hornadys their chance as i shot 800 of them over the 4 barrels and always keep a few hundred around...never really played with the bergers because of the cost.
I've given the 129 Accubond LR a few launches down range in the 6.5 WSM, they were accurate enough at over 3400 fps, but having more confidence in the 140 Hunting VLD loads I already had worked up, I stuck with them. I had a couple of opportunities to buy the 142 LRAB's last week, and passed on them.
Originally Posted by keeki
Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways
Bergers never entered my realm of possible mostly due to the cost... I'd rather spend that extra money on shooting more and improving my skills with a load that can do .5 moa than shoot less with a load that can do .4; especially when the nut behind the nut is likely the less capable component in the entire set up. The only thing that would be a sticking point with me on the SMKs is that I do plan on using the rifle for some hunting as well... was hoping the ABLRs would be able to fit the bill as both a steel knocker and deer dropper; time will tell I suppose... although I guarantee I'm not going to be getting anywhere near 3400 fps out of my .260; and if I did I probably would be posting about it from a hospital bed while some doctor reconstructed my face!
sounds like you just need to go with the Amaxes and make them work...they are good for hunting(from what i hear)and cheap enough to shoot as target bullets.
The 142 ABLR's are running about $4.00/100 more than the Bergers. Midway still shows the ABLR in stock. Don't overlook the 140 Accubond. If you can get factory 2nds they're reasonable, reliable, and easily tuned to your rifle. Expansion is on par with the Partition, and theyre a good bullet all around if you're not concerned with finding the highest BC possible at weight. If there ever available again, I'll switch over and sort by weight and ogive.
Originally Posted by keeki
Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways
Well im glad you cleared the air on how to obtain neck tension. I was aware of the collet and bushing dies but that wasent mentioned untill i asked the question.
Im also very aware of taking some off the case neck in order to accomplish it. But that can also lead to some worthless cases if your not very carefull. Or at least
the added expence of buying a bushing die in order to salvage them.
That's part of the reason why its last on my list of things to tweak... changing powder charge with the same powder and seating depth with the same bullet is a no-cost proposition (assuming you were going to shoot the rounds anyways...). Like you said if you turn too much off you can ruin the case, and going with the collet/bushing style dies for me is an added cost (bought RCBS 3-die set) so unless its needed to get the accuracy I want... no use buying something you are just fine without. BTW... I may still take you up on that offer to chip rocks depending on when my trip out west winds up. Just not sure what day I'll be back.
I went with the 129's because I wanted a bit more velocity... although I'll take better accuracy I can dial/hold than flatter shooting as long as the energy is OK out to my max hunting range of about 300 (which the 140's will do). Going to finish up this box of ABLRs when I get back from my "vacation" and then decide which way I'm going to go... no sense tossing them aside until I've given them a full shake-out and put them through the load development and "dialed" them in a bit.
We usually just rope the ones at 300 then wrestle them to the ground and cut their throats. lol
I've been in load development as well. With Berger 130vld and Hornady 140gr. With the berger I'm using nosler brass,with the hornady I'm using necked down 308 lc brass. Both loads are with imr 4350. the bergers seem to do well @ 40.5gr going 2750 .005 off the lands. I've loaded up some more that will be jammed .010 into the lands. Tried it before, need to verify again with a 10 shot grouping.
The 140g hornadys seem to like 41gr with the lc brass. In tthe process of working on different oal on those. They've proven to be a pain in the ass.
I found the bergers on sale at midway.
For me? I've found pushing the pill faster has proven to be unsuccessful with imr 4350.
I may be wrong b u t maybe lighter charge weights will bring your groupings closer
All brass is fire formed,collet.
Last edited by eddiesindian; 06-19-2015 at 11:55 PM.
Well, unfortunately I've been doing training in the desert, home for a few days, back to more training, home for a few days, few days of funerals, and now getting ready to head back to the left coast for another week... between that, my real job, and the still unfinished home-remodel project I feel like a one legged man in an ass kicking contest. Still have the remainder of the ladder to work on for the ABLR's... seems like by the time I get that done I'll be out the door for another 6 months. Kicker is I picked up another steal on a 110 LA... going to order parts while I'm out of the country so I have a nice "welcome home" project to do.
In case no one else mentions it, the regular AccuBonds like a litte jump to the lands, .020 to .030.
Believe it or not, I have seen ABLRs shoot well with a .100 jump. A few of the loads over on Nosler have that jump to them.
The 129s in my 6.5-06 tightened up a bunch the further I jumped them. Not my primary load in that but did ok regardless.
So you hit the "sweet spot" about .1 back? Good information to have! Hopefully when I get my two weeks here before I pack up and head out I'll be able to hit the range and figure it all out.
BN,
The regulars seem to shoot between .020 and .030 off. The ABLRs seem to like more jump, sometimes as much as .1. Correct.
The ABLRs I start at .1 and load some a bit closer and see what fits.
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