Reply With QuoteDoubt if it's going to get any lighter without your input. The easiest, simplest fix is the spring snip. One and one half turns, I believe. Took mine from a good six/seven pound pull to a three/four.
Got my scope mounted and finally got to the range today. First time shooting my Axis .243. Not loving the trigger - its very heavy and gritty. I shot about 30 rounds and I think it will be accurate enough with the right loads. I only had 2 factory loads today. So my question is will the trigger smooth out with use or am I going to need to do some work on it? I have never worked on a trigger - EVER - so I have no clue what I might be getting into. The RB Sav-1 doesn't look too difficult, but $90.00 is a lot of money for a new trigger if I don't really need it
"Before a standing army can rule, the people must be disarmed, as they are in almost every country in Europe."
- Noah Webster
Doubt if it's going to get any lighter without your input. The easiest, simplest fix is the spring snip. One and one half turns, I believe. Took mine from a good six/seven pound pull to a three/four.
I shim the trigger to take up some of the slack as well.
This is something commonly done? I'm guessing the search engine here will get me to a thread(s) describing the process?
"Before a standing army can rule, the people must be disarmed, as they are in almost every country in Europe."
- Noah Webster
Originally Posted by bulldog
Very commonly done, and there are plenty of threads about trigger mods. There are several different ways to go about it, but all pretty much boil down to either cautiously clipping the spring or replacing it with a lighter one, and all are simple to do. Well worth trying before shelling out big money for a replacement trigger. My .223 and .270 triggers were easily transformed from a rather creepy 7-8 pounds down to a crisp 3.5-4 pounds. Some folks will still go for a replacement, and I won't say the replacement triggers aren't even better, but a $2, 15-minute modification can give amazing improvement.
Thanks pisgah. Now to use the search for trigger mods
"Before a standing army can rule, the people must be disarmed, as they are in almost every country in Europe."
- Noah Webster
I did the mod that involves replacing the factory spring with a screw (10-24 I believe) and a simple, lightweight, coil spring. I also did some stoning of the trigger/sear notch. My Axis trigger pull is now about 2.5 pounds.
The screw allows for adjusting out the takeup. Takeup on mine is almost non-existent. I put blue thread locker on the screw when I had it adjusted where I wanted it.
If you don't have the screw or a suitable spring, you should be able to get these at the hardware store. I already had all the parts since I am a born tinkerer and never throw away a screw or a spring. Plus, I have spring assortments from Brownell's and Harbor Freight. You can also get lighter replacement springs from Amazon, ebay, etc. that are a direct replacement for the factory spring.
I also put powdered graphite on the trigger/sear notch. That usually gets rid of several ounces of trigger pull.
With rain, rain and more rain here,I finally got a break in the weather to try my Axis again after cutting 1 1/2 coils off the spring and putting graphite on the trigger/sear notch. What a difference! One test load produced sub 1" group at 100 yards and the trigger was so much better. Thanks to all for helping a noob along. Now I think I'll try a Boyd's thumbhole stock.
"Before a standing army can rule, the people must be disarmed, as they are in almost every country in Europe."
- Noah Webster
I'm happy to find it's working for you!
get some brake cleaner or safarliland powder blaster, take the trigger out and spray it real good outside with this stuff. it got all the small shavings and muck out of my old one and it stopped being gritty.
i prefer the adjustable smoothness of a timney. worth the added c note.
For you, maybe so, and more power to you. But not so for me, especially on a $237 rifle, and especially when ten minutes, a single screw that I already had on hand, and a spring that cost me $3 (with a nice ballpoint pen as an extra bonus -- the spring was cannibalized out of the other one) is danged near as smooth and clean as the Timneys I have known. Should your desire, or your circumstances, ever move you to sell your Axis, do you think you'll get that extra C-note back out of the deal? I doubt it. I doubt I'll get my $3, either, but who cares?
no need to call sour apples on someone who has the coin to spend on a proven mechanism, bud. it's my decision to timney and clearly not yours. i won't tell you that your rube goldberg spring hack is just that, so no need to piss on my parade and tell me your way is better than mine or that i'll lose money when/if i sell the axis. yeesh. not nice, dude. really crude.
Geez, a bit sensitive, are we? You know, some people buy them because they are inexpensive and yet meet or exceed their needs and expectations. Not calling sour apples on anyone, just applying a favorite adage -- "I never learned anything from a man who agreed with me."
not sensitive at all, just giving it back to y'all what ya give me, bud. have a nice life.Geez, a bit sensitive, are we? You know, some people buy them because they are inexpensive and yet meet or exceed their needs and expectations. Not calling sour apples on anyone, just applying a favorite adage -- "I never learned anything from a man who agreed with me."
I think I'm going to change the spring on my trigger. I have seen the ones but eBay but I have read you can get the same spring at a hardware store?? Do you guys know the size or model number?? I know I can just cut mine but I would like to keep it
buy a few extra savage trigger springs to keep on hand.
take one spring and cut off ONE coil and see how that works for ya.
it's a cheap trick that might just be the solution ticket for ya. if not .... TIMNEY.
I have used the spring from a Pentel ballpoint pen -- it's the same diameter as the trigger spring, but of a lighter gauge. It's also slightly longer, so I trim it to the same length as the standard spring, which assures reliable trigger reset while making the pull significantly lighter. I have also taken the standard spring with me to a hardware store, looked thru their selection of coiled springs, and found one with the same specs -- same diameter, lighter gauge wire, slightly longer.
IMHO, cutting the spring has a caveat and that is safety, by cutting a coil you change preload (you still need that for sear engagement) the preferred method is to get a slightly softer spring rate.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Cut my spring took my pull from over 6lbs to a hair over 3. Night and day difference.
When I was researching trigger mods it was suggested to "drop test" the rifle. After cutting 1.5 coils and getting the feel I was after, I dropped the unloaded rifle several times on the floor to see if it "went off". It never did, so I feel confident it is safe. Just to be sure I never walk around when holding a loaded weapon unless it is on "safe". Most designs are made so it is easy and quick to disengage the safety.
You know what I like best about people? Their dogs.
I did the same, couldnt get it to go off.
A couple of other worthwhile tests:
Rifle empty, open and close the bolt violently several times. Be sure that slamming it closed doesn't trip the sear.
Rifle empty, work the bolt hard, then put the rifle on safe. Pull the trigger as hard as you can, let it go, then push off the safety. Do this several times, make sure the sear isn't tripped by going off-safe. Do this one more time, but after taking it off safe dryfire the rifle and note if there is any lightening of the trigger pull versus just a normal cock-on-safe, off-safe-fire cycle. If it passes all tests you should be good to go.
You're likely to get slam and bump fires, in my experience, from messing with the sear engagement. When I shim the sear, the first thing I check is its resistance to shock. So far 0.010" seems to be the most widely applicable shim thickness for safety and elimination of creep. Oddly, I even tried transplantating the shimmed trigger from one rifle into another and it worked just fine!
imho, the axis is not just another bottom feeder cheapo rifle, it's a solid core platform of action and barrel that begs mods IF you want to increase performance beyond its stock tupperware configuration and you realized this before you plunked down the $300, and ya planned for mod (mad?) money set aside.
who hasn't taken an axis to a different and better place? new stock, new trigger, really Good Glass, muzzle brake, cdi dbm & mag, etc - and all the cartridge loading gear (if ya don't already have it). before ya know it that 300 buck rifle is now well over a grand ... or more.
shoots better, more accurate? absolutely.
looking and feeling better? totally.
SO, you want proven reliability without the fear of screwing up an important safety issue? then spend the money and get a drop-in timney trigger. what's another hundred bucks wisely spent?
or just replace or cut trigger springs, but messing with the sear in any manner is not for newbies.
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