I like the Lee collets too and use a Hornady lock ring.
I reload 40 different ctgs, so I have a LOT of dies from almost every mfg. I really like Lee dies, especially the Collet style for rifle calibers. They work perfect for all my AI ctgs.
HOWEVER, I just don't understand why Lee persists on using those 'mickey mouse' lock rings with the 'o' ring lock. I just don't trust the ability to 'lock' when I screw them into the Rock Chucker.
I just purchased a lot of 11 normal split ring type lock rings on ePay for cheap.
I have been drilling and tapping the Lee rings for a set screw.
Who wouldn't pay a $1 (or so) more for a Lee die with a 'real' lock ring?
Sorry, I just had to unload. ha ha
ron
I like the Lee collets too and use a Hornady lock ring.
I've also drilled and tapped all of mine. On chamberings I only have one load for, I wont't tolerate the seating die lock ring (called that for a reason) moving when removing or installing the dies in the press.
Last edited by Hotolds442; 04-17-2015 at 10:04 PM.
Originally Posted by keeki
Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways
I don't know what you're talking about. The instructions that come with those dies clearly state that if they are finger tight they won't budge...
(I use Hornady lock rings on mine).
And how about those soft pot-metal caps that blow off when you put (too much?) pressure on them... GRRRR
To each his own.
In over 20 years I've never blown the cap off, or had the o-ring fail to keep proper adjustment on any dies. O-rings keep 10's of thousands of pounds of pressure contained in engines and hydraulic systems, but with the power of the human hand, may be out matched
I'm a firm believer in the theory that if it bleeds, I can kill it.
I don't think O rings are designed to resist rotational forces...
There isn't anything wrong with the Lee rings as such, I just haven't found a good use for'm yet.
I only have four Lee dies, two F crimps(22 Hornet, 45-70), a decapper and 22-250Imp FL. For all but the decapper I've replaced the O ringy thingies with hex RCBS hex nuts w/set screws, a piece #8 shot between the screw and die threads. I don't care much for the split ring type.
Bill
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
Seem as though theres a consenses of opinion on Lee die lock rings. I need to ask Bill why the pc of shot wouldnt
work with the factory ring? I might just go buy a bag of shot lol.
The shot provides a barrier to protect the die threads . Once it smashes and conforms to the threads the set screw only needs to the lightly snugged down and the ring-die will move. I can't say how of if it would work in the thin aluminum Lee rings, I never tied it.
Oh, you don't need to buy a bag of shot, one 12ga shell would do a couple dozen rings.
Bill
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
I also use the locking Hornady rings. It's a PITA to have to adjust the die every time you put it in the press.
Perhaps the Hornady folks are paying Lee a commission!
I purchased the lock rings for my Lee dies for the simple fact of having the lock ring in the exact same place, every time. No set-up, and no changes from last time at the bench.
Just good to know I wasn't the only one who felt the way I do, about the Lee 'lock' rings.
As I stated, the dies are great and the collet dies produce VERY low runout.....
The rings that use the lead shot under the set screw are also very good.
The RCBS rings I have used in the past, have a brass setscrew to prevent damaging the die's threads. In MY case, I have broken several of the brass setscrews.
I like the split rings for all my dies.
FWIW
ron
I like the O-Ring lock because it is soo easy to change.
Wait a minute! that's whats wrong with them!
The trouble with using a bare steel or a brass set screw, both only contact the crest( top) of a die thread, a flat surface on a point. Lead on the other hand being soft conforms to it's entirety, the crest, sides and root. Its kind of like bedding the screw to the thread for 100% contact. As a result the screw only needs to be gently "snugged" to hold the ring secure without damaging the die threads, the set screw or allen wrench.
I basically do the same thing but use .065" weed whacker line between the thumb and adjustment screws in my Wilson trimmers. No need for an allen wrench and the screw only needs to be backed of a 1/4 turn to make adjustments.
Bill
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
I like Lee dies also. My "counterrant" for the day. Is that a real word? It should be.I like the O-Ring lock.
The lee die lock ring was designed to let the die float in the thread to avoid misalignment caused by specs on presses being different and shell plates. For all you who throw them away send them to me for proper recycling.I don't really need them but I had to say it and am not soliciting anything. Just making light of throwing away the most important part of lees engineering. There is no rotational force on a die.
Willing to give back for what the sport has done for me!
How do you get your dies in and out of a press without rotating them? Sounds like a cool trick.
That ain't what he means by no rotational force.
+1 "jonbearman"
Only have one LEE die set and it's because it's the only one you could get the 50Beowulf in. Swapped out the lockrings the minute I realized I hated them. Never been impressed with their die set quality. Oh wait, I actually have a 270 set that I bought so I could use the naked sizer die to size halfway from 30-06 to 25-06. It was cheap.
I'm loading on a Lee classic turret. The O rings work quite well for this application. I adjust them and then never have to worry about them again, unless I need to remove them for cleaning. It's nice not having to unscrew dies every time I change operations.
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