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Thread: Glass bedding a 110 Stagger feed Questions

  1. #1
    papabearxx
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    Glass bedding a 110 Stagger feed Questions


    Hi everyone! I have another question for the experts. I have a 110 stagger feed 30-06 with a wood stock and I want to glass bed it. I have already done some minor inletting of the barrel channel. I have watched a couple of youtube videos of people bedding synthetic stocks but I cannot find anything about bedding wood stocks. I know it is not popular to have a wood stock but I like the look. I have bedded a couple of Remington actions but never a Savage. I have a couple of questions. I have heard that you do not bed the tang on a Savage since the rear action screw is further forward? That makes sense. And I understand bedding in front of the rear action screw. But bedding the recoil lug is the part I am concerned about. On Remington's I would bed the lug and about 2" in front of the lug. But with the barrel nut what do I do? And where do I bed around the internal box mag? So all in all what is the best way to bed this rifle?

  2. #2
    Team Savage GaCop's Avatar
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    You are correct on not bedding the tang on a Savage, it must be free floated like the barrel. As far as bedding the recoil lug, bed it but not the barrel nut. I put two layers of masking tape on the barrel nut and the face and sides of the recoil lug leaving the back of the lug that faces the action screw bare to bed into the epoxy. You can also bed along the action rail between the rear action screw and front action screw areas. You don't bed the mag box at all.

  3. #3
    papabearxx
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    Thanks for the reply. That is exactly the information that I was looking for. Since this is a wood stock that I am doing what do you think about skim bedding the barrel channel to help stiffen it up? If I did this should I just start in front of the barrel nut? Ive never bedded a wood stock before so this part I am not sure about. Thanks

  4. #4
    Basic Member DanSavage's Avatar
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    I would let the barrel free float,, a simple way to bed the savage floating the tang and barrel perfectly is to wrap the tang with desired amount of electrical tape and wrap the barrel with electrical tape out towards the end of the forend of the stock .
    There really is an excuse for everything!

  5. #5
    papabearxx
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    I just got done bedding it. Hope I did it right. I bedded the area in front of the rear action screw, the area behind the recoil lug, and skim bedded the barrel channel in front of the barrel nut. It looks like it will work. I just hope that this kit works like I want it to. It is the BedRock kit. I guess we will see. I will let you know how it comes out.

  6. #6
    Team Savage GaCop's Avatar
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    Once the bedding cures, insure that the barrel and tang is indeed free floated. If they have some areas making contact, carefully work the offending areas until everything is floated. The barrel should have enough room in the channel for the thickness of a business card to pass all the way back to the barrel nut. There needs to be enough clearance to allow for the expansion of the barrel when it heats up. The old adage, "enough room for a dollar bill to pass" doesn't work well because the barrel can expand/warp when hot causing it to touch in the channel.

  7. #7
    papabearxx
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    So I just got done taking the rifle apart after bedding it. It came out OK. The tang and barrel are sufficiently free floated. I still have some clean u to do but I think that it is going to work. Thanks to everyone for the advise!

  8. #8
    Team Savage GaCop's Avatar
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    Glad to hear all went well. Let us know how it shoots.

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