My latest 2 Builds 7mm and 6.5-284

Brent · 04-10-2015, 02:30 PM

Silver is a 7mag, savage action, McGowen barrel, accutrigger. Stock is modified savage with custom cheek riser, bedded, painted. Action is blasted and cured with silicone. Bolt is cerokoted armor black. Paint on stock is my own cocktail. NSS cnc'd nut and lug.

Painted rifle is 6.5-284 Rem/age. 700 action with CBI barrel. NSS CNC'd nut and lug. Magpul dark earth brown and armor black. Rifle basix trigger. B&C stock. Ton of work this rifle as well. Stock had to be highly modified to fit Rem/age.

Let me know what you think. I have 3 more I need to finish. Running out of steam though.

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**drybean** · 04-10-2015, 02:34 PM

Looks great,very nice

**basshawg42** · 04-10-2015, 09:05 PM

Both beautiful

**willyg09** · 04-10-2015, 09:17 PM

Gorgeous rifles for sure.
I am thinking of a McGowen also. Did you true the receiver or any other fittting?

**natesatt** · 04-10-2015, 11:59 PM

Looking good! Whats this "cured in silicone" all about? Please tell me more.

**scooterf79** · 04-11-2015, 09:18 AM

Very nice, like them both alot. Yes, please tell the silicone thing. And....how do they shoot?
Scooter

Brent · 04-16-2015, 09:11 AM

Originally Posted by scooterf79

Very nice, like them both alot. Yes, please tell the silicone thing. And....how do they shoot?
Scooter

SS does not need a coating but the metal is a little shiny and bright even after blasting. To find a nice compromise that dulled down the appearance I tested silicone spray. The result was a darker/richer appearance, matte vs bright, and the coating is protective of dirt and moisture. Nothing really sticks to the SS. This is the 3rd SS rifle I have done in this manner.

As far as the actions being trued, no. The 6.5-284 shot under .5 with a 5 shot group, shots 5-9. The first 4 were to get on paper and clean between shots. I will not do further load development for it as it is sold. The 7mm is just being broke in and load development will begin this week. It is now the possession of a buddy who I built it for.

That reminds me. McGowen... lets just say the jury is out. This is the 2nd barrel. The first was not what we ordered, and yes we have a order sheet, and Dan was not real nice about it. I have another on order and it will be in with in the next few weeks. We'll see if this latest barrel comes in correct. 8 twist, fluted, 26", turbo brake, in 4 grove. It is a 7mm mag as well. I do know the brake on this current barrel works quite well and for a mag it is pleasant to shoot.

I have another 6.5-284 I am needing to finish asap. It is ready for cerakote and hopefully I can have it up and flinging lead in the next week. I will finish it and sell it and then I need to work on my wifes 243 I built.

Thanks for the feedback gentleman. I appreciate it very much.

**natesatt** · 04-16-2015, 12:43 PM

Brent,

Thanks for the info. First, so is the silicone just your typical 100% silicone spray you can find in auto parts stores?

Also, I have a SS McGowen that I'm going to put on a blued 110. I was going to spray it all with Cerakote. Are you saying Cerakote won't stick to it? Thanks for the input, and photos of good looking rifles.

Brent · 04-16-2015, 01:10 PM

Originally Posted by natesatt

Brent,

Thanks for the info. First, so is the silicone just your typical 100% silicone spray you can find in auto parts stores?

Also, I have a SS McGowen that I'm going to put on a blued 110. I was going to spray it all with Cerakote. Are you saying Cerakote won't stick to it? Thanks for the input, and photos of good looking rifles.

I will assume you have experience painting rifles and particularly cerakote. Having said that, cerakote will stick to any surface properly preped and cured.
What I meant was that not much sticks to SS with silicone sprayed on it. As far as silicone, yes, just typical silicone spray. Some sprays have a lot of scent though. Try and pick 1 with the least amount of smelly crap in it.

Here is an example of the difference in silicone vs non on the blasted ss parts. The next picture of my rifle I carry with me every where. It is siliconed only, no paint.

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**natesatt** · 04-17-2015, 09:28 AM

Very nice, and thanks for clearing that up. So is the antler stencil placed on the barrel before bead blasting? Also, how often do you find reapplying the silicone?

Brent · 04-17-2015, 11:49 PM

Stencil before blast and stencil on cerakote. On cerakote you can cure for 15 at 250 and then paint over. As far as silicone I have done it twice in the last year. Once it got really dirty on a hunt and I wiped it down with a rag with silicone on it. It is really easy to take care of as the grime comes right off. Water beads right off too.

**natesatt** · 04-18-2015, 12:08 AM

We'll you certainly got me thinking...I have a build that's just about ready. I was going to throw tungsten or titanium cerakote on it, but now...? It would be really fun to try if the action wasn't CM. The rest is stainless, NSS lug and nut, McGowen barrel.

On your close up photo above the lug looks lighter in color. Is it a different metal?

Thanks again for all your input.

Brent · 04-18-2015, 12:19 AM

That picture was to show the coloration difference with silicone and without. The lug had not been treated yet. I wanted a darker tone to the metal and tried several things. Silicone did it for me. I have also played with cerakote clear, but not enough to make any conclusions yet.

**natesatt** · 04-18-2015, 12:22 AM

OK...again, thank you.

Brent · 04-18-2015, 12:26 AM

Two tone rifles are attractive if you want to try a painted action. Sniper gray or something along those lines might be pretty sweet. Blast with 80 perhaps.

**Baller** · 08-31-2017, 07:51 PM

This is an old thread, but do you have any more info on that custom cheek riser on the 7mm? Do you have a write up or a how to? I'd love to do something like that on my Model 10PC.

Brent · 09-01-2017, 11:41 AM

Originally Posted by Baller

This is an old thread, but do you have any more info on that custom cheek riser on the 7mm? Do you have a write up or a how to? I'd love to do something like that on my Model 10PC.

I have moved away from the style of riser because I had to do all the machine work. I use KMW loggerhead parts now. It is pretty involved process but worth it in the end.

Here is little over view for a hollow butt:
Remove pad
cut the stock
use a 1" piece of aluminum flat stock and shape to fit inside the stock like a form. The form is used for fill material epoxy.
I fill the front of the stock, hand grip area with spray foam and inset the aluminum. Now the front of the stock is filled so less epoxy is needed.
I fill the rest of the stock with epoxy and let it dry. The cheek piece is also filled.
I machine out a section for the kmw in both stock and cheek pieces.
Insert those and secure with epoxy.
I float and fill the remaining voids with epoxy. I used acruglas gel for the fill and devcon for the float. Devcon is super strong but very heavy. This is why you don't want to fill the entire butt with epoxy.

It sounds easy but it always turns into a big project for me. My email is martell.brent@gmail.com if you want some pictures of finished stocks I have done this way.