Reply With QuoteNo you are not a klutz nor an imbecile but rebuilding those two English cars didn't do your subconscious mind any good.
I just installed a Rifle Basix trigger in my 110 and I am NOT pleased. They sent cup point set screws instead of flat point. Cup points are used to lock down on a shaft. The location of the sear engagement screw is too far from the notch on the trigger allowing the sear to become trapped between the notch and screw. This gives a notchy pull. As for the "instructions" the less said the better. No clue as to adjustment. In short I should have burned that $100 bill and saved myself some time.
tommyt
ps lest you think I'm a klutz who simply can't do the work, I used to own a tool shop and have rebuilt 2 english cars and a motorcycle
No you are not a klutz nor an imbecile but rebuilding those two English cars didn't do your subconscious mind any good.
RB triggers are great triggers....if you rebuilt two cars you should have no problem adjusting the trigger.
First if this is going to be a hunting riffle use the white spring with the trigger in the hole closest to the muzzle end of the trigger if its going to be a target ONLY riffle move the trigger to the center hole and use the red spring.
Loosen all screws including the sear screw and back them off so they are not touching anything...turn the screw that holds the colored spring in until you engage the sear and trigger...now adjust the the sear screw until there is no drag as the sear breaks...now turn the screw in the back side of the trigger in until you have a tight trigger/or no play in the trigger....now adjust the over travel screw so when you pull the trigger there is no over travel...now adjust the saftey screw until you can pull the trigger with the saftey on and it dont fire...this will get you very close but you may have to do a little fine tuning.
Long Range
You've lost me. I have only one spring and it is unpainted. Also, there is only one pivot hole.
tommyt
Is it a SAV2 or SAV1
Sav1
Sorry i thought it was a 2...call riffle basix they will take care of you...i have no experience with the 1.
I installed the same trigger last week and it took me about one hour including the additional time to inlet my stock. If you're having trouble there are lots of YouTube videos. I recommend the ones by docv73. Low production quality but quite helpful.
If you decide you don't want the RB-Sav1, let me know. I love those things!!
DK
[B]Savage - Arken Optics - MDT - Seekins - MOΛΩN ΛΑΒΕ[/B]
RatMag
I'm curious; what exactly do you like abt the RB trigger. Maybe I missed something but the coil tension spring is all I can see.
tommyt
I use two RB triggers on Stevens and Savage 10 and 110. I don't have the issues you described. I really like the RB.Originally Posted by Tom Thomson
I think you should give RB a call and verbalize your issues with a tech over the phone. You may have a slightly defective or maladjusted example.
Your complaint is rare on these triggers. Im not sure if Ive seen another person describe what you feel when pulling the trigger.
I like my triggers but I think if I stuck your RB trig on my 110 I would detect exactly what you detect.
I have spent alot of time adjusting the triggers back and forth, polishing and making sure the sear surfaces are as I want them. I also polish the top of the sear engagement screw face, and that makes the thing just an awesome trigger!! They are about the best trigger out there for the price in my opinion.
DK
[B]Savage - Arken Optics - MDT - Seekins - MOΛΩN ΛΑΒΕ[/B]
I bought a Sav-1 for my model 10 .223 and it was a nightmare. I could not get it adjusted to give a decent trigger pull and not fire when I closed the bolt. I thought I had it right and when at the range testing it the rifle went off when I closed the bolt. If I backed off at all to give more trigger pull it acted like a step trigger with a definite first step before it would go off. And the spring riding on the sliding safety would deform and bend over when the safety was operated.
The instructions are not descriptive at all. To their credit I called them and they gave me a full refund when I sent the trigger back to them.
I've since discovered that Savage makes a target spring for the accu-trigger and am expecting one in the mail very shortly.
Idaho, Let us know how that spring works out. Also, what is the part number for it?
http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...r-Part-Numbers
Originally Posted by keeki
Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways
The Savage target spring is NICE. It REALLY improves the AccuTrigger. I have it set as light as it will go and I love it. Much better than the stock AccuTrigger.
The number on the bag from Gun Shack is 105270 and I assume that is the Savage part number. Get one.
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