I want to start reloading for my model 10P-SR in 308 with an 18 inch heavy barrel.
I have read online when using Lapua brass you must back off the powder a bit due
to a decreased inside volume. Are there any online reloading references exclusive to Lapua
brass and powders? I want to use Varget and SMK 165 bullets. Can someone shed light on this
or suggest a starting point. Thank you in advance.
Actually it is they exact opposite, Lapua brass can take more of a beating, and you can round robin more cycles than other brass, you can't stuff enough Varget in a case with a 165gr bullet to see any pressure signs, 44gr would be a good start and your max, that you will be able to fit is around 46 to 47gr.
Dean
RUMs are like woman in Stiletto heals, you know they are going to put you in the poor house, but that has never stopped anyone from pursuing them.
The differences in case volume in .308 brass may amount to .2 grains with some powders, tops (with Lapua getting +0.2, not -0.2). With a good load in the vicinity of an accuracy node, that difference won't make much of a difference in accuracy, and none whatsoever in safety unless you are at max in a large volume case. From the Hodgdon 2015 Annual Manual for various bullets using Varget ...
Sierra 155 gr HPBT, Col: 2.775", min= 44.0, max = 47.0 compressed
Hornady 165 gr SP, Col: 2.750", min= 42.0, max = 46.0 compressed (this data is good for your Sierra 165 MK bullets, too)
Sierra 168 gr HPBT, Col: 2.800", min= 42.0, max = 46.0 compressed
Sierra 175 gr HPBT, Col: 2.800", min= 42.0, max = 45.0 compressed
The Hornady 178 gr AMAX is not listed, but it should be the same as for the Sierra 175 MK above. The 180gr SP is listed as 41.0-45.0C, 2.80", for proof.
The usual caveats apply, start low and work up, watch for signs of pressure, etcetera, etcetera, yada, yada, yada. (not making light of safety here, but I'm assuming you know what you are doing in the handloading arena).
These are from Dan Newberry's OCW website, and can be trusted. They were worked up for a bolt gun, and I'd bet they will work fine in your 10P-SPR (it's what I have, too).
.308 Winchester using Varget
155 grain bullet, 47.8 grains
168 grain bullet, 46.0 grains
175 grain bullet, 45.0 grains (an all around favorite)
180 grain bullet, 44.1 grains
200 grain bullet, low node 41.5 grains (10 twist barrel)
http://optimalchargeweight.embarqspa...pes/4533485759
If you want to be anal about it, you could add a tenth of a grain for Lapua brass, but I wouldn't bother. You'll likely have best results (accuracy-wise) with Federal match primers. CCI Benchrest and Remington 7 1/2 are mentioned frequently as nearly as good or just as good.
You asked about Varget, so I gave it to you, but if you are open to using another powder, it is known fact that Federal Gold Medal Match, in both the 168 and 175 grain varieties, uses IMR 4064. These are known clones and shoot very well, ignore any difference for Lapua brass.
.308 Winchester using IMR 4064
168 grain bullet, 42.8 grains
175 grain bullet, 41.8 grains
(these replicate Federal Gold Medal, use FC or Lake City brass)
We like 178 grain bullet and 41.5 grains in FC or LC brass
http://optimalchargeweight.embarqspa...pes/4533485759
Last edited by JCinPA; 04-05-2015 at 07:58 AM.
JCinPA wow, thank you to say the least you are a wealth of knowledge.
I don't know about that, my wife would have a few words to say about that.Originally Posted by Protocol
But I have the 10FP with the 20" bull barrel myself and I've played around with it a bunch. Have fun!
LOL...I hear what you are saying. Thanks again.
Great info here.
I have three 7mm-08s and today, I primed my first lot of new lapua brass.
Wow! Those primer pockets are tight! I use only a Lee hand primer, having primed thousands of cases with that great little tool.
When I use my Dillon 650XL, the cases go into it primed with the Lee tool. Just so much easier to identify loose pockets, etc.....
ron
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