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Thread: Finally starting build

  1. #1
    md80captain
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    Finally starting build


    My plan is to build a 1000 yard gun. The starting point is a 2003+ 110 staggered feed in 30-06. The reason for the caliber is I'm trying to consolidate as much as possible. I already have a garand in 30-06. Also, 30-06 can be loaded to nearly 300 win mag levels from what I understand.
    Barrel is 30" long and 1.06 diameter from front to back.
    Other parts on order:
    Choate 22-0601 Stock.
    Rifle Basix SAV 2 Match Trigger
    Farrell industries 20 MOA scope base.
    Sharp shooter supply recoil lug.
    Planning on SWFA 10x42 scope.
    This is a budget build and will be under $1500 with the glass.

    [IMG][/IMG]

  2. #2
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    Sounds good, I was going to do a long range 30-06 but got impatient waiting on the barrel from gunshack and decided on a 22-250 instead. Now I'm itching to go long range (well to me anyways) again but doing a 260 instead. Less powder noise and recoil.

    You might need a box of wheel weights in the buttstock to counter balance that truck axle of a barrel.

    I'm interested to see what sorta speeds you get with the 30" tube. What bullets will you be shooting?

  3. #3
    Team Savage jonbearman's Avatar
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    Who made your barrel?What trigger are you going to use?
    Willing to give back for what the sport has done for me!

  4. #4
    md80captain
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    I'll answer Maztech89 first. Not sure yet on the exact load I'll be using, but since I'm going long range I'm thinking very heavy on the bullet, probably 190 grains. Here is a load I found on handloads.com the guy used a 190 grain match king, not sure of his barrel.
    60.4 gr RL22 2,878 fps 3.303" Fed LR

    I mentioned my trigger in the first post. Rifle Basix SAV 2 match trigger. Appears to be a "drop in" unit. The barrel is a Mcgowen I got through 4d reamers up in Kalispell. Cost was $369 shipped. Took almost 4 months to get it.

  5. #5
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    Guys I was shooting with in the 3x1000 F T/R match were pushing the 215gr Berger VLD out of their 308's with a 30" barrel with good results. If I was shooting F-Open with a 30-06 i'd probably look at the 230gr VLD. Huge BC will fight the wind very very for a 30 cal.

  6. #6
    md80captain
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    Wow 230 grain! I was thinking of entering f class open just for kicks when I get this thing done. There is a local range that runs matches out to 500M only where I think I could be competitive in open class with my rifle. There is another range further away that goes to 1000y.
    I'm not sure if they do matches there or not. This gun is not being built as match rifle per se, don't mean I won't enter a match or two with it though.

  7. #7
    Luke45
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    Quote Originally Posted by LoneWolf View Post
    Guys I was shooting with in the 3x1000 F T/R match were pushing the 215gr Berger VLD out of their 308's with a 30" barrel with good results. If I was shooting F-Open with a 30-06 i'd probably look at the 230gr VLD. Huge BC will fight the wind very very for a 30 cal.
    230 vld in a 30-06?

  8. #8
    md80captain
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luke45 View Post
    230 vld in a 30-06?
    Yea not too sure my 1-10 twist is fast enough for such a heavy bullet. I might try a 220 MK though. CD about .630 on that one.

  9. #9
    Luke45
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    Quote Originally Posted by md80captain View Post
    Yea not too sure my 1-10 twist is fast enough for such a heavy bullet. I might try a 220 MK though. CD about .630 on that one.
    I did a stability calculator on a 230 with a 1-10 twist and its borderline. in cold weather it pobably wouldnt stabilize. 220 MK may be the ticket! 190, 200, or 210 MKs would work too, may get alot more velocity and not have to turn you scope up 40 MOA to hit 1000! haha

  10. #10
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    If I keep my current axis in 308 for F T/R I will probably go to a 9 twist on for the heavier stuff.

  11. #11
    md80captain
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    Update: Decided to let a gunsmith do the barrel install (mainly cause he is also my tsfr FFL and I need to send him some extra business) he talked me into doing some extra machine work. Truing the receiver and barrel nut to each other. I'm not sure how much difference that will make. Also the scope is on its way. Decided to go for the SWFA 16x42 instead of the 10x42. Looks like 2 or 3 weeks from now and I'll be starting the barrel break in.

  12. #12
    thomae
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    Guys, please keep the thread on topic. This is about md80captain's build. You can discuss F class loads and ballistics in a separate section.

    To md80captain: I am not sure I would have paid extra for the truing, but that's ok. Sounds like you have everything good to go.
    (You're on the ball with three down and locked for a full stop.) Looking forward to hearing about your actual shooting results.

  13. #13
    md80captain
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    Quote Originally Posted by thomae View Post
    Guys, please keep the thread on topic. This is about md80captain's build. You can discuss F class loads and ballistics in a separate section.

    To md80captain: I am not sure I would have paid extra for the truing, but that's ok. Sounds like you have everything good to go.
    (You're on the ball with three down and locked for a full stop.) Looking forward to hearing about your actual shooting results.
    I agree, the truing is probably a waste of money. I just wanted to throw these guys some business. Who knows, it might help a little...
    Yes I'm eager to get started and working with load development.

  14. #14
    md80captain
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    Got the gun the barreled action back from the gunsmith today. He showed me how he took off about .020 from the front of the receiver to true it. Interesting problem when I tried to mount it in the stock. The screws no longer lined up. In fact the receiver screw holes were now .020 further forward...go figure. I took the gun back to his shop, and he got to work with a mill and ground off a bunch (like 1/8") from the aluminum v-block/pillar (in the stock). I kind of freaked when I saw how far the recoil lug stuck out in the air now, but at least the screws would now go in. I went ahead and back-filled with bedding compound and am now waiting for it to cure. We'll see how that turns out. Kind of reminds me of my race car days back when I was a kid. Seems like whenever you made a change in one place, it affected something else.

  15. #15
    Team Savage
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    why would facing the receiver move the mounting holes
    sounds to me maybe the wrong stock

    drybean

  16. #16
    md80captain
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    Because the recoil lug does not move. Remove material from the front of the receiver and it moves forward towards the recoil lug. Trust me, the stock fit fine before the the machining was done. I could draw a picture.

  17. #17
    Basic Member AZ_GUN_NUT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by md80captain View Post
    Because the recoil lug does not move. Remove material from the front of the receiver and it moves forward towards the recoil lug. Trust me, the stock fit fine before the the machining was done. I could draw a picture.
    Facing the receiver shouldn't have taken that much off, only a few thousands. Relieving the area for the lug so it sits further back and then bedding it will fix that issue.

  18. #18
    md80captain
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZ_GUN_NUT View Post
    Facing the receiver shouldn't have taken that much off, only a few thousands. Relieving the area for the lug so it sits further back and then bedding it will fix that issue.
    He took .020+ off the receiver to true it. That was actually quite a lot and enough to prevent the screws from grabbing. The pillars on the choate ultimate sniper stock are pretty tight. However , after milling out the v-block area behind the lug that allowed enough room to move it back .020. I just pulled it apart after bedding, and it looks pretty good to my untrained eye.

  19. #19
    Basic Member AZ_GUN_NUT's Avatar
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    You'll still want to bed it, especially now that the lug area has been opened up, otherwise it defeats the purpose of the lug.

  20. #20
    md80captain
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZ_GUN_NUT View Post
    You'll still want to bed it, especially now that the lug area has been opened up, otherwise it defeats the purpose of the lug.
    Like I said in my last post. Pulled it apart this morning after bedding.

  21. #21
    Basic Member AZ_GUN_NUT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by md80captain View Post
    Like I said in my last post. Pulled it apart this morning after bedding.

  22. #22
    md80captain
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    Got it all put together. Going to take it out tomorrow for a break in. Here's a video:

  23. #23
    md80captain
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    Well took it to the range the other day to start a CU equilibrium break in. Just used off the shelf Win Ammo, and not too concerned about how it grouped. Everything went flawlessly so far and managed to get half the break in completed, as well as the sight in.
    Now time for load development. After lots of searching I found 1 8lb keg of AA2700 @ Grafs. This is not the powder I ideally wanted, but these days, you got to take what you can get right? Along with the powder I ordered 500 190 MK and 5000 Wolf large rifle primers.

  24. #24
    md80captain
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    Update: I went out this morning and finished up the break in with some of my own handloads. Once that was done shot a 5 shot group for accuracy. I had 5 different loads to test this morning, but it was just too cold and windy. However, I was pretty pleased with my first group. It was fired prone (on the ground) off a Harris bipod. The load I tried was 52 gr AA2700 In a Lapua case with WPA primer. Bullet was a Sierra MK 190 gr seated .002 off the lands. Like I said, cold and windy, the range was 200 yards. The group measured out at 1.5" not too shabby I think for my first attempt and considering the conditions (if I say so myself). At that point I decided to quit for the day (on a good note).

  25. #25
    md80captain
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    Finished the painting today. Duracoat Coyote Tan base and Camo spots are 3 colors of rustoleum applied with artist sponge

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