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Thread: Savage 110 build

  1. #1
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    Savage 110 build


    Hey all,

    I'm going to pick up my first big project gun. Savage 110 in a .243. I wanted to build a .243 as a bench gun that i'm shooting 1/8-1/4 MOA.

    First question is, Why does Savage manufacture the .243 in a long action, rather than throwing it on a short action?

    Second, Being this is my first build, what are some recommendations on directions to go? Shaw Barrel? Timney Trigger (Or purchase an accutrigger?), Boyds stock, or?

    And also, what are some things i need to look out for?

    Thanks,
    Isaiah

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    1st thing to look out for is it really a long action with 5.0" action bolt spacing, or is it an intermediate action at 4.522" action bolt spacing? If it is the later then your drop-in stock options are next to nil.

    I have a mdl 110C originally a .243 action with 4.522" spacing which is presently at XLR Industries being used to cut a custom Evolution chassis.


    It took a lot of research and begging to find a stock or chassis manufacturer willing to help me finish my build.

  3. #3
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    Why was there a switch? Also, why does Savage mfg in a long action, rather than using a short action?

  4. #4
    Basic Member Hotolds442's Avatar
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    The 110's in .243 were built before Savage introduced their short action receiver. Before that time, everything was built on a long action.
    Originally Posted by keeki
    Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways

  5. #5
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    Another Question I Have: I don't believe this 110 has a floorplate. Is there anyway i could set the action up to have a floor plate?

  6. #6
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    You need to re-think your whole project. Bench guns don't need floorplates, and for 1/8-1/4 moa. accuracy your caliber and barrel choice is insufficient.
    "As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."

  7. #7
    Team Savage jonbearman's Avatar
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    If you want to shoot with the big boys it gets really complicated. First off you will need a premium barrel like a kreiger,brux,bartlein to compete. The 6ppc is the king but you could udse the 6 br like I am and shoot really well. You will need a sharpshooter trigger set in ounce's. You will need a benchrest stock and sharpshooter and others make them, you have to meet weight restrictions, You will need at least a 36 power leupold or an older Bausch and lomb scope. You will have to set it up with a single shot adaptor and hand feed the little br case into the chamber so to seak. It will have to be bedded correctly with the rear tang free floated. Good mounts and good rings. You will end up getting a mirage shield. In the end it would be wiser to go to benchrestcentral.com and look in the classifieds for a good used bench gun and in some cases have it rebarreled.
    Willing to give back for what the sport has done for me!

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    Quote Originally Posted by sharpshooter View Post
    You need to re-think your whole project. Bench guns don't need floorplates, and for 1/8-1/4 moa. accuracy your caliber and barrel choice is insufficient.
    I guess my question was relatively general, about barrel, etc. I was really just getting some general input.

    For Bench Guns, it's better to go just with a magazine feed?

    If i was to go with a .243 i'm not going to achieve the accuracy i'd look for? Then what caliber would be better? I have my 25-06, in a Tikka, that is a hole puncher. I don't neccesarily want to build a caliber i already have.

  9. #9
    Basic Member Hotolds442's Avatar
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    Define what "bench gun" means to you.

    To many that have responded here, it means a competitive Benchrest gun built for shooting matches with the intent of being competitive.

    If that's not what you're after then just build it how you want.
    Originally Posted by keeki
    Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hotolds442 View Post
    Define what "bench gun" means to you.

    To many that have responded here, it means a competitive Benchrest gun built for shooting matches with the intent of being competitive.

    If that's not what you're after then just build it how you want.
    Ok, seems fair.

    Maybe what i should say: I want to build a small caliber weapon to be as accurate as it can be that can punch holes on the bench (100-200 yards), and if i want to, be able to take out and shoot at small critters with.

  11. #11
    Team Savage jonbearman's Avatar
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    So basically a accurate varmint gun. I would go to one of my favorites that is on my list, the 6mm-284. They are easy to tune also and deadly accurate with a good barrel like a criterion or shilen etc. You will need a stock like an hs precision if your bolt centers are not the oddball. If it is a standard long action then stocks are easy to come by. If you want a repeater then just use someones bottom metal and have it installed by cdi(who makes good bottom metal and mags) and you are set. Try the rifle basix sav2 trigger of freds SSS competition trigger which is fairly priced.
    Willing to give back for what the sport has done for me!

  12. #12
    Basic Member Hotolds442's Avatar
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    And I'd go 243AI. Buy easily available 243 Winchester ammo off the shelf, shoot with good accuracy while fireforming, and then load for performance. No necking down hard to find expensive brass, no neck trimming, and equal accuracy with the right components and load development.
    My factory Model 10 Predator Hunter in 243AI is turning out .25MOA with the Savage barrel and that's with over 1600 rounds down the tube. Finding a 243 Varmint weight take-off and doing a .050 setback/243AI rechamber should get you in the ballpark. Or any number of aftermarket barrel manufacturers could do the same.
    Originally Posted by keeki
    Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways

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