My NIB 2013 Savage 10 FCP-SR
My first ever Long Range Precision Rifle (LRPR). I studied the model for many months and then had more time to study it until I finally found one for less than 1200/100o dollars. Some sellers are getting those numbers for used guns. I had five sellers reject my offer of 800usd.
I found one. It only took me three months! NEVER FIRED. Just no factory box, trigger tool, or instructions. I don't need a single thing that was missing, BTW. I was sent a rifle, 10 round magazine, and bolt, packaged separately in a box to my FFL(in Davie, FL) from the seller in TN. $825 shipped. I live in Fort Lauderdale, BTW. The seller paid his FFL a $35 transfer fee and the TN FFL shipped to my FL FFL.
From what I can see, it has never been fired. Its pristine, with a shiny bore that needs a little dust cleaned out of it. I looked it over VERY closely. I took the bolt all apart, rail, action, all taken apart and inspected.
I have the Desert Digital Accustock version with an Accurate Mag 10 AICS type single stack ten round magazines and AM bottom metal. I simply did not trust the new $600 cheapened version that needs immediate major work right out of the box.
Impressions of the rifle:
1) Stock is made for someone with a lot smaller hands than I have. I don't have huge mitts. I am 6"3" an XL glove size, but I cant palm a basketball or anything. The Accustock seems to be made for Hobbit hands. I thought I would be very very happy with this. No. It feels like a toy as far as size goes. That $300 Bell & Carlson Medalist stock in Desert Tan might be a sooner purchase than I had planned. The B&C was always the plan, but just not right away. So I thought. I happen to like Desert Camo a lot. Its my preference. I am NOT a big fan of Desert Digital. FYI: I like the B&C Tan with Black Spider web better than their more expensive premium Desert Camo. I am really thinking of getting the B&C sooner than I expected. Is a never used Desert Digi Accustock worth anything?
2) Trigger: My Accutrigger was adjusted to 2.7 lbs from the factory. The lowest mine will go is 2.4/2.3lbs which is fine. I put some Aeroshell moly grease on the sear. I can see why some guys don't like this trigger. It looks like a tinker toy. It does, however work...well IMO. I am keeping it for the foreseeable future. I like it. I have not yet actually shot a round off yet. I have to order my scope on Monday from SWFA in Texas.
3) Barrel contour: Even fluted, this 24" sucker is no lightweight. I would not enjoy firing this offhand. Beefy. I love fluted barrels. I like my 10 FCP-SR :D
4) Fit and finish: well, the finish is pretty nice. It will get Cerakoted eventually(Desert Tan). The factory finish is fine for now. There are some nasty machining marks inside the action. Those will get polished out at some point. The bolt, head and bolt internals ( I took the bolt apart) are in desperate need of a polish. They will get that. The firing pin spring and/or mechanism has an irritating squeak to it... even after greasing it. I can remedy that. Not to worry.
5) The bolt lift(cocking effort) is way way worse than I heard about or expected. If the careful fluff and buff I do doesn't markedly improve that, I will be forced to:
a) Get an aftermarket longer bolt handle or b) send it off to Nat Lamberth for a full truing, PT&G Bolt and one of Nat's LIFT KITS. That's more $$ and a LOT of down time. Its always been the plan, but not until much later. I don't want to do a lengthy wait just after I buy a new rifle. So I will likely have to invest in a longer bolt handle for now. Time will tell.
6) Torque Values: I don't have my Fat Wrench yet. I ordered the FULL Wheeler lapping and mounting kit, BTW. But the action screws seemed to be nice and tight. All of the scope rail screws made a "snap" when I loosened them. They seemed to all be equally tight. There was still oil from the factory under the rail mounting surfaces. No Loctite. We all know Savage never uses any Loctite. My front action screw had a small serrated washer which I promptly lost. The rear action screw had no washer. Now neither has a washer!
7)Scope Rail: Wrong rail. The rail is 100% flat to my action...front and rear. Needs NO bedding. But its a ZERO MOA rail, not a 20MOA rail which is supposed to come with this model. I measured it. It says "EGW Savage SA" on the under side. It is obviously the one that came installed from the factory. If Savage wont send me a 20MOA Savage/EGW , I will spend the Big Bucks for a steel Ken Farrel G-FORCE 20 MOA rail. That is one serious rail!
But I found the EGW rail to be much nicer than I expected. I could live with a 20 MOA version if Savage will send me one. I will pay the $$ for the Ken Farrel mount if I end up having to buy my own. Anyone want a never used 0 MOA EGW rail? She's a peach!
Am I happy inspite of any shortcomings? Oh, yes, absolutely. I will work out what I can with my own skill set. I will make improvements as I can afford them.
I happen to like the fit and finish and smooth action of a 5K+ G&A or Surgeon rifle but can only afford this $825 Savage. By no means do I feel like I am not in the "Cool Guys Club". Over time, bit by bit, for 2K or less, I can have a Nat Lamberth trued Savage with a really sweet B&C (I can do the bedding with my own Devcon) stock that rivals most of the really high end stuff. I think we Savage owner ARE the Cool Guys Club because we know value when we see it. You think?
Even if the gun shoots .5 MOA I will likely still modify it just because I enjoy customizing my stuff (cars/guns etc) It's what I like to do. For more about me and my experience go to the "Introduce Yourself" sub forum.
Below is the ad for my rifle. I will post my own pix once I start polishing the bolt cam, bolt internals and bolt lugs.
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