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Thread: 6.5 Creedmoor Tight Round Chambering

  1. #1
    H4350
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    6.5 Creedmoor Tight Round Chambering


    I rebarrled a .308 into a 6.5 Creedmoor. Just have the barreled action for it now, waiting on stock.

    I loaded a dummy round to 2.82 OAL and it won't close unless I put a lot of force on it. Even at 2.70 it is really tight to chamber. I have some factory loads laying around, they are 2.68 and they close fine.

    Could this be a headspace problem? Maybe I set the headspace too tight?

    Any help is greatly appreciated!

  2. #2
    Team Savage
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    You will need a longer throat

  3. #3
    H4350
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    Quote Originally Posted by drybean View Post
    You will need a longer throat
    Longer throat on the brass or chamber?

  4. #4
    Basic Member Stockrex's Avatar
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    headspace if off the shoulder.
    see pic


    Chamber
    newbie from gr, mi.

  5. #5
    H4350
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    Thanks! That picture helps a lot.

    Alright, I understand now. I bought a custom barrel and it has a short throat, the bullet just needs to be seated deeper.

    I guess over time the throat will elongate when I fire some rounds.

    I just wanted to make sure I didn't do anything wrong with the headspace.
    Last edited by H4350; 02-28-2015 at 02:00 AM.

  6. #6
    Basic Member GaCop's Avatar
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    Your throat will erode over time but it will take a while, like hundreds of rounds. If you have a certain cartridge overall length in mind with certain bullet weights, that is compatible with the magazine, you could have a gunsmith throat the barrel.

  7. #7
    LongRange
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    Quote Originally Posted by H4350 View Post
    I rebarrled a .308 into a 6.5 Creedmoor. Just have the barreled action for it now, waiting on stock.

    I loaded a dummy round to 2.82 OAL and it won't close unless I put a lot of force on it. Even at 2.70 it is really tight to chamber. I have some factory loads laying around, they are 2.68 and they close fine.

    Could this be a headspace problem? Maybe I set the headspace too tight?

    Any help is greatly appreciated!
    are you using new unfired brass for your dummy rounds or brass thats been fired in another riffle?

  8. #8
    Basic Member short round's Avatar
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    If you are not using same bullet in dummy round & factory round that can cause the problem your describing. You stated factory ammo measures 2.680" & reload is 2.700". Seat your dummy shorter till it chambers to your liking & adjust seating depth for accuracy.

  9. #9
    H4350
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    Quote Originally Posted by LongRange View Post
    are you using new unfired brass for your dummy rounds or brass thats been fired in another riffle?
    Thats exactly what it was, I bought once fired brass of a guy. I full length resized it but I guess I didn't bump the shoulders far back enough.

    I screwed the die down another full turn, sized the brass, then tried another dummy round. It chambered just fine.

  10. #10
    LongRange
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    Thats what i figured when you said factory ammo chambered fine but the dummy was tight. After you fire a few rounds you can measure the shoulders and adjust your die to just bump the shoulders back .001 or .002 and they will chamber nice every time.

  11. #11
    H4350
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    Quote Originally Posted by LongRange View Post
    Thats what i figured when you said factory ammo chambered fine but the dummy was tight. After you fire a few rounds you can measure the shoulders and adjust your die to just bump the shoulders back .001 or .002 and they will chamber nice every time.
    Appreciate the help, thanks!

  12. #12
    DocDoc
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    1 Full Turn

    Quote Originally Posted by H4350 View Post
    Thats exactly what it was, I bought once fired brass of a guy. I full length resized it but I guess I didn't bump the shoulders far back enough.

    I screwed the die down another full turn, sized the brass, then tried another dummy round. It chambered just fine.
    That is quite a bit to change at one time. You want to be careful you do not bump the shoulder back so far that you end up with excess headspace, that can lead to case separation at the head.

  13. #13
    Basic Member upSLIDEdown's Avatar
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    Yeah, one full turn is a lot. Maybe come back out to where you had it closing really tight, and turn it an eighth of a turn. Then another eighth if needed. It probably won't take much more than that if was actually closing, just closing really tight. You only want to bump the shoulder enough to chamber the round smoothly. Anymore than that and you're overworking the brass. It grows a lot each time you fire it, then you shrink it way back down when you size. As was said above, you only wanna bump the shoulder .001-.002".

  14. #14
    H4350
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    I use a Lee Precision reloader with the quick swapable dies. For the record, I do not like this press, I can never get the dies to stay put for some reason. When full length resizing I screw down the die down to the shell holder. Then tighten the die and start. For some reason it always loosens up and at some point I notice the shell holder is not contacting the die.

    I think as I was FL resizing it loosened up. I just ordered a Hornady overall brass length measuring tool, I am going to measure some brand new brass I have and the resized brass to make sure I didn't bump the brass back to much.

  15. #15
    Basic Member upSLIDEdown's Avatar
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    That tool will be invaluable. Find a fired case from your rifle. Gauge your bump off of that. Not new brass. Bump it .001-.002" from fireformed length and you should be golden.

    Also, your press, is it the Breech lock challenger? I use one. What dies are you using? Lee dies have the crappy o-ring under the nut. If you're using them, buy some locking split rings to replace them. Huge difference. I use Hornady rings on my Lee dies.

  16. #16
    H4350
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    Quote Originally Posted by upSLIDEdown View Post
    That tool will be invaluable. Find a fired case from your rifle. Gauge your bump off of that. Not new brass. Bump it .001-.002" from fireformed length and you should be golden.

    Also, your press, is it the Breech lock challenger? I use one. What dies are you using? Lee dies have the crappy o-ring under the nut. If you're using them, buy some locking split rings to replace them. Huge difference. I use Hornady rings on my Lee dies.
    I am also using Hornady dies. However, when I screw down the die where I want it, I follow with the O-Ring, then tighten with an allen wrench. When I do this, I cant unscrew it from the press. I have to loosen the O-Ring then I can unscrew it so every time its like I am resetting the die.

  17. #17
    Basic Member upSLIDEdown's Avatar
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    Hornady dies shouldn't have orings... Just the locking collar. Set the die/collar where they need to be, but before you tighten the allen screw in the locking collar, you'll have to back the die/collar off the press enough to where it doesn't bind when you tighten the allen screw. Back them off at the same time, holding them both together, and the depth shouldn't change. Then you can just spin the die into the press until the collar locks up agains the top of the press each time. It won't move. Hope that makes sense.

  18. #18
    H4350
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    Quote Originally Posted by upSLIDEdown View Post
    Hornady dies shouldn't have orings... Just the locking collar. Set the die/collar where they need to be, but before you tighten the allen screw in the locking collar, you'll have to back the die/collar off the press enough to where it doesn't bind when you tighten the allen screw. Back them off at the same time, holding them both together, and the depth shouldn't change. Then you can just spin the die into the press until the collar locks up agains the top of the press each time. It won't move. Hope that makes sense.
    Yes, sorry i ment the locking collar. I apologize, I am still new to reloading.
    Thanks for the tip. I think thats exactly what I am doing, binding the locking collar against the top of the press.

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