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Thread: Help with 110 30-06 accuracy

  1. #1
    stxs
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    Help with 110 30-06 accuracy


    Need a little feedback. I bought a Savage 10/110 Trophy Hunter XP with the Nikon BDC scope and wood stock - brand new. I went to the range and got out the lead sled to zero the rifle. It was bore sighted from the factory and after a couple of shots I had it on paper at 100 yds. I then proceeded to try and zero the rifle. I couldnt get better than a 6" group size. Shot through a little over a box of ammo. Came home and check the scope mount and the rings were not remotely tight. Tightened them up and went back to the range. Lead sled again and this time really took my time between shots. Also brought out a different brand of ammo to try. It shot better but still around a 4" group was the best I could get it to shoot (3 shots) and every now and then it would shoot way off. I mean like a foot off the others? ? Only happened 2 times out of 20 shots. Does anyone else shoot this rifle? What group size should I expect to get at 100 yards? Should I start by buying new scope mounts? Does anyone have any idea why it would have those shots that went way off target?

    Ammo was winchester Super X 180 grain
    and Fusion 165 grain

    Thanks in advance

  2. #2
    Basic Member scope eye's Avatar
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    Hi, Chuck the Lead Sled that is your problem, they are noting but grief and and are very hard on scopes, get a front and rear bag and check back with your findings, I can tell you in advanced what they will be.

    Dean
    RUMs are like woman in Stiletto heals, you know they are going to put you in the poor house, but that has never stopped anyone from pursuing them.

  3. #3
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    Please tell us more about the Lead Sled accuracy issue, Dean. I've used one for years and have gotten some little, bitty groups out of it. Could it be that I can get "littler and bittier" groups if I go to front and rear bags? I've got the bags, I just rarely use them since I got the Sled, so I'm anxious to learn something new about honing my accuracy!! :-)

  4. #4
    stxs
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    Quote Originally Posted by scope eye View Post
    Hi, Chuck the Lead Sled that is your problem, they are noting but grief and and are very hard on scopes, get a front and rear bag and check back with your findings, I can tell you in advanced what they will be.

    Dean
    Dean, thanks for the advice - I will give that a shot and repost. If anybody else can think of anything else to try please let me know

    Ryan
    Last edited by stxs; 12-31-2014 at 05:50 PM.

  5. #5
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    stsx
    Have you found your problem? If not you might want to try different ammo, I'v had good luck with Federal Power Shok (blue box).

  6. #6
    stxs
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    Quote Originally Posted by olddav View Post
    stsx
    Have you found your problem? If not you might want to try different ammo, I'v had good luck with Federal Power Shok (blue box).
    Well it wont shoot the winchester super x at all. But I have gotten Remington Core locked in 150 grain to shoot decent groups. Nothing sub MOA yet, although I have gotten a couple shots right on top of each other but I always seem to have a flyer or two. Its probably me, I can't seem to get real comfortable with the ergonomics on this rifle. Its seems the stock is made for iron sights or something and its hard for me to get a good consistent feeling. Just seems like there is not a real comfortable spot I can rest my cheek and see through the scope. I might try sliding the scope back or forwards in the rings and see if I can get a better eye relief.


    Thanks

  7. #7
    Team Savage GaCop's Avatar
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    I'd also check to make sure the tang and barrel are free floated. Being a new barrel, I'd check for copper build up too.

  8. #8
    stxs
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    Quote Originally Posted by GaCop View Post
    I'd also check to make sure the tang and barrel are free floated. Being a new barrel, I'd check for copper build up too.
    Thanks, I ran a dollar bill up and down the stock below the barrell and it seemed to have plenty of clearance. Is there another way I should do it? Also I did a cleaning on the barrel, It seemed to come clean easily and I didnt really see any copper. Is there a way to double check for copper build up? Is it obvious?

    Thanks

  9. #9
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    If your accuracy issues have not been fixed try a box of 150 grain hornady SST light mag loads. They're pricey but shot very well out of a couple 06's I've had through out. Good luck and keep is informed
    couple of savages

  10. #10
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    If you'd like a better look into the barrel or chamber to get a good view of what kind of copper build up you have, but don't want to afford the expense of a $700.00 borescope, there is a good alternative. The Snap-On BK5500 video inspection camera can be had on EBAY for under a hundred bucks used. A word of warning though, your firearm cleaning process is likely to undergo a evolutionary change when you can clearly see into the barrel with this tool. I use it on my .223 and can easily see any copper that is left after an application of copper remover.

  11. #11
    Team Savage GaCop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stxs View Post
    Thanks, I ran a dollar bill up and down the stock below the barrell and it seemed to have plenty of clearance. Is there another way I should do it? Also I did a cleaning on the barrel, It seemed to come clean easily and I didnt really see any copper. Is there a way to double check for copper build up? Is it obvious?

    Thanks
    Recheck it with a business card. If that clears back to the recoil lug, you should be good to go even if the barrel heats up. A bore scope would be a great tool for checking bore condition id it weren't so darned expensive. The alternative that is the item "Texas10" mentioned. I use either Bore Tech Eliminator or Montana Extreme 50 BMG to clean copper from my barrels.

  12. #12
    Rdot
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    Any Updates? You could check the action bolts, if you haven't already, and are still having issues. I was having a similar problems. I too replaced the factory scope/ rings at first, then my action ended up coming loose after 100 rounds or so. I had to re-zero all over again. Groups improved tremendously after that.

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