Reply With QuoteI would probably add at least a 3rd ring to be safe. I believe they would hold without issue, but a 3rd ring would provide full confidence.
does anybody know if the sig zee rings will work on a 110ba 338lm
I would probably add at least a 3rd ring to be safe. I believe they would hold without issue, but a 3rd ring would provide full confidence.
Thanks for the info how would I install a 3rd ring
Put the extra in the sane format as the other 2 right behind the front ring
I hadnt ever thought about adding a third ring to a scope. Not a bad idea though especially in view of the torquing requirments with some scopes.
My son has a 338x378 with a Vortex scope. At least for the time it takes him to aquire another. The 15 inch pounds reccomended by the manufacturer
dosent hold the scope from moving even with rings with 4 screws each. I believe Burris has 2 screws each.
Yep just add a 3rd or even a forth to increase grip. You'll see this on a lot of serious ELR rigs.
Thanks for the info I will pick a couple sets looking at the sightrons3 8-32x50 with mos to try getting to a mile
I have heard people claim to have no trouble but.............. After repeated failed attempts even using two full sets (4 rings) at one point.................NO.
Mine was on a 338 edge with brake and there was no way to get signature rings to hold my 6-24x50 more than 80 rounds before slipping.
I switched to weaver brand picitiny tactical six hole rings.
While I really like my Burris Sig Zee rings and the theory behind them, I've often wondered about this issue. D.ID how did you know it slipped? Was it visible or did you notice POI variations?
Honestly the Burris Sig zee rings would be the only ones I trust.
They actually aren't my first choice. Not enough pro's and high end competitors use them from what I've seen.
is there other adjustable rings to get more moa
Not that I've seen like the concept, but they aren't my favorite
I think I will give them a try after I get a scope and it warms up a lot thanks for all the info
Both actually. Subtle POI shifts got me concerned as I was shooting allot and had this gun locked down and dialed in more than any I had owned before so when she started to wonder I was a bit rattled and determined to lock it back down.Originally Posted by cowtownup
The edge or lapua are just to expensive to be re-sighting in all the time.
Marking the scope illustrated the scope actually going back and forth under recoil just enough to move the mark in and out of the edge of the ring and the scope still felt and looked tight.
After numerous attempts to remedy with the signature rings: I doubled up, then tried rosin, then lock-tight in the ring followed by many other recommended fixes before abandoning them for the six hole=extra wide surface "tactical" type rings at which point all my trouble ended and she returned to her former glory.
P.S. the POI shift I was fighting was roughly 1/2 moa at its worst but when a 1/4 moa rifle starts slinging 1/2 moa discrepancies, it's obvious.
Last edited by D.ID; 01-10-2015 at 03:06 PM.
Well I have a Badger 40moa base and getting a sightron 8-32x50 with 70 mos adjustment I will oboe be trying a mile shot a couple of times it will take about 65 to 67 mos to get there do you have any suggestions 338lm
What reticle will the scope have? Should be able to hold over the rest of the way.
I am going to get the mos reticle
Bean there. I was trying the sig rings as well for there adjustable moa ability. Assuming your trying to remedy the 5moa high (for a hundred yard zero) issue. Try it first as the math does not always pan out when we stack tolerances in assembly and variables in loads.
The things I could suggest would be:
#1: Shim the base so your almost bottomed out in the scope which also creates a de-facto zero stop, that's what I did.
#2: Accept the 400 yard zero your base and scope will naturally create and shoot.
#3: Switch to a 20moa rail and use your reticle sub-tensions for holdover in combination with your max available adjustment.
How did you whim the base and how much
Pop can aluminum shims in conjunction with a base bedding. How much depends on the can used and how much you need.
Thickness in thousandths needed per moa I'll have to look up but I'll see if I can find it, should be in my log book somewhere.
I have done this on several, some to add moa and some to subtract moa from canted bases. It's cheep, easy and works slick but has it's limits and can not realistically be used to cover large discrepancies like 15moa without compromising the screw alignment that anchors the base on. 1-7 is no problem, however while making these fine tune adjustments you need to first find out the reality of the individual set up and load by assembling and zeroing to determine how much you really need.
Then disassemble correct and reassemble.
Thanks again I will try it when it warms
The Weaver tacticle rings are certainly a pretty decent ring especially considering the cost.
They do have 6 screws holding each cap. We use them on quite a few of our high recoiling guns.
They are alloy however and wont take the abuse of steel. I have ruined some that i dont think
would have happened with steel. That said my sons 338x378 with the Vortex scope (had those rings)
when we discovered the slipping. The slipping in his case at least is caused by the torque requirments
necessary in order for the adjustments to function. Tighten to 25 inch pounds and it dosent slip.
But look in the scope while turning the knob and you will find erratic movement at those settings.
As for using beverage cans for shim material certainly it will work. We did that 30 years ago because
tapered bases werent yet being offered. But now they are and my advise for a long term solution is to
use them. You can also get shim material in specific thickneses which would be better for determining
which base you need as for taper. Also be prepared when adding shims or a tapered base for a windage
problem when attempting to zero the scope. With the proper ammount of taper for your gun/scope you
will be able to zero for 100 yds if thats your choice. Thats not saying that will also yeild the most ammount
of elevation youd like also however. BUT as you gain elevation by using the tapered base you are also squeezing
down on the available windage which sometimes causes problems when attempting to zero the gun. As you add
elevation when shooting a distant target the windage will again become available for use. Many here no doubt already
knew this but if you didnt, be advised.
With a 40 mos base how much more elevation can I see and if I zero at say 400 yards can I get more sorry for all the stupid questions
In theory your 70 moa scope should have a relative zero around 35 moa so when mounted on a 40moa base it would be bottomed out and still 5 moa high which is roughly 400 yards depending on your load.
So in theory with a 400 yard zero you would have 70 moa of adjustment available. Of course that means your scope at zero is totally bottomed out and from a 400 yard zero you will not need as much adjustment to get to a mile.
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