Hey guys. So I've had a model 111 30-06 for a while now and I finally pulled the trigger on a new Choate stock and Shilen barrel. However I dont anticipate rechambering or rebarreling once this new barrel is installed. I'm reaching out looking for a member in or near the northwest suburbs of Illinois that can help be rebarrel and headspace my new barrel. Or even just let me borrow an action/barrel wrench and barrel nut wrench to complete the job. I dont mind paying for the use of the tools but i just cant bring myself to buy my own since I'll only be doing this once.
Or if anyone can reccomend a gunsmith in my area who can rebarrel, that would be greatly appreciated as well.
Thanks!
I was in the same boat as you. I finally decided to buy my own, even though I thought I would only use the tools once I already have ideas for new builds. Also, you can always resell the tools for close to what you paid for them.
If I was in your area I wouldn't have a problem letting you use mine but I am far away. Good luck!
You're sitting there telling us that you'll only do this once. We all know better. 3 or 4 months go by, and a buddy in need offers up a Savage rifle for a good price because he needs some cash. You jump on it, and next thing you're back here in the Help Me Decide forum begging caliber choices. Then questions about stocks, DBM's, triggers, etc. You spend the $15 and become a member, scooping up the deals in the classified section, as you begin your next build. And so it continues. Before you can get that barrel on the 30/06, you'll be bitten by the bug, and then there's no hope for you. But know up front, we are here to support you and your future addiction.
Welcome to the site.
Originally Posted by keeki
Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways
Haha. Thanks guys. So I did some more digging and I think I'm going to take the cedar blocks for a barrel vice approach since its a lot cheaper than an action wrench. I have one question though... do I need a "go" and a "no go" gauge? Or just a go gauge? I've read both but the last thing I need or want is a headspace issue...
Last edited by pepper savage 111; 01-29-2015 at 04:19 PM. Reason: error
Skip the cedar blocks and go directly to oak if you can, you'll find the oak will be a lot more durable. If you've ever split both with an axe you'll know what I mean. I usually just use a go gauge, and add blue painters tape after tightening the barrel nut for a no-go. The blue painters tape I have measures a consistent .004", which is close enough to a no-go for me.
Originally Posted by keeki
Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways
Was in your shoes 2 weeks ago. I sprang for the action wrench from NWS. Figure I can rent it out to local guys a few times for a six pack of good beer. You gotta have the nut wrench though. Hotolds is right, this could turn into a obsession. I'm already wanting to go pawn shop cruising again. I just bought the "go" gage. Used one thickness of scotch tape which added .002" to the gage. In fact I made two of them just to be sure. Works like a charm. Also fwiw, I only removed the extractor, not the ejector. Had no problem with "feel".
So i just replaced the barrel and headspaced usin go and no gauges with the extractor and ejector removed. But I have an issue. When I reassembled the bolt and tested it with a snap cap it gets snaggen on closing it...
I know its the extractor because I can get it closed once it "clicks" past the snag. But if I pull the trigger (on the snap cap, of course), pull the bolt up and back while keeping the snap cap in the bolt face with my finger, and reclose the bolt, there's no snag.
I removed the extractor and it cycles fine with no snag... any input would be greatly appreciated.
Also, there was no issue before I diassembled the bolt.
I'm not getting this. When you push the bolt closed the extractor has to move on the detent and then move back lock onto the rim. "Gets snaggen" makes my head spin.
Yeah it makes mine spin, too. I'm pretty mechanically inclined so that's why I'm a little confused about this. The extractor installs and removes as it should without any issues so I'm not really sure what's happening. The guides for the extractor don't have any burs and there are no obstructions...but everything functions prefectly when I remove the extractor. I even tried empty cases. New and used. both funtioned without issue when the ectractor is removed...
Might be snap cap causing snaggen, try with a shell casing.
Hey guys, it's been a while since I had the time to play around with this. I'm still having an issue. I tried multiple brands of snap caps as well as spent and new cases from different manufacturers. Has onyone else experiended this?
I also removed the the barrel and headpaced it again with the same result. The only thing I can think of is that the extractor may be getting caught on the ID engravings around the chamber of the barrel. Is this possible?
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