Reply With QuoteKeep an eye out here:
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/ad/1252000.htm
They occasionally show up.
Otherwise give Jim at Apache Gun Works a call, he can build what you're looking for at a very reasonable price.
I am rebuilding my plastic stock 110 with a Boyds black laminate stock. I am trying to find a bull barrel for it. I suppose I can have my smith take a blank and machine it but I would like to know if anybody out there knows if anyone sells a bull barrel for the 110 in 30-06 caliber? Would it be worth savings? my smith says new barrel installed, all metal re-blued from$500, then goes up from there, muzzle break, fluting, ss, etc. Factory barrel still has life but I was thinking more bench than sporter.
Keep an eye out here:
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/ad/1252000.htm
They occasionally show up.
Otherwise give Jim at Apache Gun Works a call, he can build what you're looking for at a very reasonable price.
Originally Posted by keeki
Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways
Try northland shooters supply and have him order one. I would think a heavy varmint would be a lot lighter but stiff as a railroad track.
Willing to give back for what the sport has done for me!
I find that a 26" Heavy Varmint has all the "beef" that I need :-)
What "Hotolds442" said, and if your willing and able you can swap the barrel yourself.
Just a thought....You may want to consider doing a 308 barrel if your main concern is bench shooting. Especially if you shoot factory ammo. There are more options for competition grade ammo in 308 than 3006. Just something to consider.Originally Posted by fechaves
+1! If you hand load, you'll find the 30-06 is still a fine long range cartridge out to 1k.
I lucked out and fell into a deal for 500 Lake City National Match 30-06 cases (LC 62 NM) a few years ago, FREE. My next project is going to be a heavy barrel 06 to play with.
Having ordered a couple barrels from Numerich gun parts and a couple from Apache gun works.
I would just go straight to Jim at Apache or Jim at northland.......do not pass go do not collect $200.
Once you have a savage prefit barrel...... installation is easy, fast and simple.
Spend $75 bucks on the tools and be set forever or pay a pro a lot less than that to slap it on for you.
I am not up to speed on bluing costs because duracoate cost's about $35 to do ten barrels, but $500 is allot more than I would spend to re-barrel.
...or become a paid member so you can browse the for sale ads in the classifieds.
And don't forget Gun Shack.
Good folks to deal with.
http://www.gunshack.com/barrels?product_id=300
PS - After you order it have it sent direct to Jim at Apache. He'll hook you up on the threading. I had him do a few barrels and he's "the Man" to do your barrel.
Muzzle break?
Cheap, nice quality and fast -
http://www.muzzlebrakesandmore.com/P...zle_Brakes.php
You may want one of those sexy looking high priced breaks but for the 45 bucks he charges his breaks work. I use them on all my heavy hitters. Don't forget some timing shims from Brownell's.
http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts...ku=100-005-379
It's cheaper to assemble it yourself & time the break after assembly.
At least it was for me.
Signed,
A barrel swapping, muzzle break dependent, reloading addict....
Last edited by fgw_in_fla; 02-03-2015 at 12:38 PM.
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
OP, I would start with either of the Jims (Apache or NSS). McGowan and Sin-Arms seem to get good reviews as well.
For what it's worth, your smith's quote is not out of line. Chamber, thread, contour, and re-blue a barrel blank is a goodly amount of shop time. It's just unnecessary with a Savage. If you have a modicum of mechanical skill, and a little bit of patience, you can do a barrel swap at home.
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