Reply With QuoteShoot it first. Then figure out what sucks, and then focus on that.
I just bought a Savage 110 FCP HS Precision .300 Win Mag from Euro Optics (waiting for it to be delivered). I have the primary things taken care of and already on order, but I'm wondering if there are other things that I should consider replacing or upgrading right away? Here is what I have so far:
- Vortex Viper PST 6.5-24x50mm Scope
- Nightforce 1 piece long action 20 MOA base
- Seekins Precision 30mm .87" Rings
- Harris S-BRM 6"-9" Sling Swivel Bipod
I'm going to stick with the HS Precision stock and AccuTrigger for a while so I'm not interested in replacing those just yet. I'm looking for common things that would 1) increase accuracy, 2) improve reliability, and/or 3) make it more enjoyable to shoot. Recoil lugs? Recoil pads? DBM conversion? This rifle is being used solely as a long range target rig, so bedding the action and a new barrel are in its future regardless. Thanks in advance for any recommendations and or insight.
Here's a picture of my Winchester Model 70 7mm Rem Mag that is being replaced:
[I]"In the end, run what 'ya brung because it's better than nothing and don't give two ****s what some interwebs chat board guy says about your rig."[/I]
Shoot it first. Then figure out what sucks, and then focus on that.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
I guess that's what I'm going to be doing then. I just wasn't sure if there were things people generally change right out of the box, or if they shoot them for a while first and then upgrade as necessary.Originally Posted by sharpshooter
[I]"In the end, run what 'ya brung because it's better than nothing and don't give two ****s what some interwebs chat board guy says about your rig."[/I]
The FCP HS precision is a great rifle. Typically they shoot great out of the box. I would follow proper barrel break in procedures for it. Do you reload or will you be shooting factory loads? The reason I ask is 9 out of 10 of these will shoot great out of the box, however, sometimes one may be fussy and the reason being the aluminum bedding block and the recoil lug. If you will be reloading, before developing loads for it, I would bed the recoil lug which is super easy. Not as hard as a full bedding job, only takes me about an hour to do it from prep to the rifle drying. Then I would work my load.
The only other thing I can think of is set your accutrigger how you like it at home before going to the range. Those triggers are typically really good after adjusting. I think they tend to come from the factory set really hard to pull.
Went with a Triad Tactical pack on mine, and a 30 MOA base, 8.5x25 Leuplod,APA Lil Jimmy brake,harris bipod, 600 208 amax's,200 Berger 215's and 8lbs of H1000 to start out. April will be taking it to TVP, well see what it can do at 1760. Need to swap out the bottom metal to maximize COL, factory magazines are just too short. Slip
I shoot a 110fcp in 338lm and have a problem with the bedding block/recoil lug HS stocks are good but i have had to bed 2 out of 4 one sav110 and one of my remy700s even though hs says you don't have to, if it soots good great if not throw down some accraglass gel or devcon, i probably wasted some time trying to tweak that last few thou out of a load that i should have spent bedding. Don't order a new barrel just yet you may be surprised i have one factory sav barrel that couldn't be any more accurate right next to my others that are shillen and Brux. pay close attention to your cheek weld with the 55mm and up obj i need about 3/4"+ added to the comb on the FCP i like to have the comb high enough to rest cheek bone on the riser but thats just a personal pref. make sure to de grease the receiver rail mounting holes really good and use locktite and i like to mark the ring to scope area with a dot of the wife's red nail polish it will crack if the scope starts to creep. You bought a great gun good luck!
One other thing that isn't mentioned is cleaning the bore real good before venturing out to the range. You wont believe how much filth is left in the barrels from the factory.
Willing to give back for what the sport has done for me!
I just got mine to post a group at 1 MOA. 104.2 grains is a lot of powder!
I have nothing constructive to add to your thread. I just wanted you to know that if we ever have a best screen name contest, you have my vote hands down.
I own the same model in a 300 win mag. Things I did with mine were adjust trigger to 2.5 lbs., torqued the action screws, installed a brake (soon to be replaced with a suppressor) and worked up a nice load of 215 bergers with H1000. Mine has been shooting 1/2 MOA and better when i do my part.
kbaerg,
are you loading your 215's to accommodate the factory magazine, or loading single shot? I'm going to swap out my bottom metal to utilize a AI type magazine which will allow for a longer COL. But until then I want to determine the rifles capability utilizing a COL that fits the factory magazine. If it happens to shoot as well as you state yours has I may just have to wait til the factory tube is done, have a new 26" pre fit in the safe. Once this chill breaks in NW Ohio I'll have it out at the local club, Slip.
My 215 's are single shot and my magazine is not useable with them. HOWEVER you may be able to get them to fit depending on how YOUR gun shoots while working up loads. Just hard to say as each one is different. I thought about modifying mine to fit the longer bullet, I did come across where I needed a second round once and found that grabbing one off my ammo pouch and loading single shot form worked out fine.
Last edited by kbaerg; 02-22-2015 at 11:28 PM.
I know you said you didn't want to replace the stock but I saw the biggest improvement on accuracy by switching to a chassis.
You didnt need to ditch the HS precision stock. They are really really good stocks. All you needed to do was bed the rifle. Even rifles with aluminum bedding blocks should be bedded at least in recoil lug area. If the rifle doesn't shoot well after that...no other stock would help...most likely a barrel issue. Just my two cents.
+1 to this, I did forget to mention bedding the recoil lug area on my rifle. I cant say how much it improved on my rifle as that was the first thing I did to mine after I brought it home from the store.
I'm pretty scared to bed. But I probably should. Time to watch about a billion videos on youtube showing how to do it.
cdi gunworks
I have nearly the same set up as you twinsen.same rifle, same scope, vortex rings [ said to be made by seekins] also have badger ordnance 20 moa rail. I sent the gun brand new to cdi gunworks for new bottom metal and bought 2 ai mags, and a single shot mag insert. The new bottom metal will allow longer shells. The stiff one piece bottom metal is worth the money. Watch the you tube video.
Woah, guys, thanks for all the feedback! There weren't a whole lot of responses when I first posted this so I haven't really been checking back. So I've made some pretty good progress with this rifle. As you guys suggested, it is an absolute shooter just the way it is, but I'm also in the process of making some improvements of my own as well.
First of all, the HS Precision stock is awesome. I'm not sure how or why anyone would think it needed to be upgraded, especially right away. The fit and finish (at least on mine) is excellent, it feels solid, and I have zero reservations about keeping this chassis. Could just be that it fits me exceptionally well, but I don't see a need to upgrade that at this point. I did bed the recoil lug as suggested, and did see a slight improvement in accuracy, but I haven't even bothered to do the action since it's already out-shooting me. I did send the stock out to Joe Ducos (Sniper's Hide) for him to install a KMW Loggerhead adjustable cheek rest, so I will update with pictures once I get it back.
I also ordered a muzzle brake from Shawn Carlock @ Defensive Edge - I should receive that sometime this week, at which point I'll be taking it to Robbie @ Wheaton Arms. He's going to index, ream, and cerakote the brake so it sits flush with the barrel. I'm excited to see how well this brake works - it was never intolerable to begin with, but with a Limbsaver and the addition of the brake, I'm expecting it to be an absolute joy to shoot.
I also worked up a great handload with Berger 210gr VLDs and some Reloader 25 powder. I seem to have found a sweet spot with the COAL barely fitting in the box mag, so I'm going to continue with some ladder testing and see if I can't get it a little bit better. I was also thinking about sending the stock to CDI to have the mag well indexed for bottom metal and some AI mags, but I'm not sold on that just yet.
Here's how she sits currently:
Then The Riddler wanted in on the action:
And here's how she's been shooting for me @ 200 yards with some handloads (I pulled the one on the left):
Last edited by WinnieTheBoom; 03-21-2015 at 12:31 PM.
[I]"In the end, run what 'ya brung because it's better than nothing and don't give two ****s what some interwebs chat board guy says about your rig."[/I]
Also, feel free to post up pictures and setups of your 110 FCPs! Always looking for other ideas / interested in what others have done with theirs. I think us .300 win mag guys are pretty heavily outnumbered by the .338 guys, but either caliber - post 'em up!
[I]"In the end, run what 'ya brung because it's better than nothing and don't give two ****s what some interwebs chat board guy says about your rig."[/I]
Nice scope ;-)
Small update:
I sent my stock out to Joe Ducos from Sniper's Hide to have the KMW Loggerhead hardware installed. I found him on the SH forums (jducos), contacted him about doing my stock, and quickly worked out pricing/shipping details. Turn around time was about a week just as he said (less shipping), and the quality of work is top notch. I figured if I was going to be modifying my stock permanently (i.e. drilling holes in it for a cheek rest, I wanted it to be done right). I was willing to pay a little bit more for function and form so to me, this was completely worth it.
Some may argue that the Kydex rests are fine, but I can't stand the way they look. The KMW just looks like it came like this from the factory and is adjusted using a single allen set screw to loosen/tighten the posts. I could probably get it to sit a little bit more flush with less gap when it's at its lowest position, but it doesn't bother me enough the way it is to change it. The picture distorts it in such a way that makes the tolerances look bigger than they actually are, and I'm not going to be adjusting this every time I shoot anyway. I'm going to adjust it once to optimize my cheek weld and leave it.
Apologies for the crappy cell pics, apparently my iPhone 5's camera is a little outdated:
Last edited by WinnieTheBoom; 04-13-2015 at 06:24 PM.
[I]"In the end, run what 'ya brung because it's better than nothing and don't give two ****s what some interwebs chat board guy says about your rig."[/I]
Just bought the same rifle in a .308. You mind me asking what the total cost was to have the cheek piece installed? Exactly what I am looing for.
$225 for hardware, installation, and return shipping.
Joe Ducos (username 'jducos' on Snipers Hide) did mine. He keeps the hardware in stock. He is in California, so depending on where you are, shipping to him might be kind of expensive. I was willing to pay more to have the form and functionality of the Loggerhead though - I can't stand the idea of drilling holes in my stock, and I think those cheek rests look awful to begin with. Definitely worth it in my eyes.
I'll try to get some high res pictures today if I have some time.
[I]"In the end, run what 'ya brung because it's better than nothing and don't give two ****s what some interwebs chat board guy says about your rig."[/I]
Excellent !!
[B][I][U]" We have met the enemy.... and he is us ! "[/U][/I][/B][I] (POGO)[/I]
Best I could do tonight:
[I]"In the end, run what 'ya brung because it's better than nothing and don't give two ****s what some interwebs chat board guy says about your rig."[/I]
Posting Permissions
Bookmarks