Reply With Quoteit should be..I know I had to open mine for the bull barrel..but light varmint wored well.
Does anyone know the width of the barrel channel on these? I currently have a spotter barrel on a 110 but may move up to a light varmint or varmint barrel. Is the channel wide enough? Is there enough material there to remove if needed?
it should be..I know I had to open mine for the bull barrel..but light varmint wored well.
is this the medalist "classic"? If so you WILL have to open the barrel channel. I recently put a light varmint in mine and had to open her up quite a bit. It wasn't hard. Use dowls and sand paper. Just take your time!Originally Posted by grumpygunguy
It is the "classic". Thanks for the help.
just an FYI...I put a criterion light varmint and that thing shoots lights out! Im talking typically I do a ladder test to find best load. Well with this gun the first time out I simply loaded 3 different loads with accubonds. The loads were each a half grain apart. 60grains, 60.5 grains and 61 grains. All three were under .5 inches at 100 yards with the best being one ragged hole. Best guess it was .15inches. I took that same load to 300 yards a few weeks back and shot a 1inch 5 shot group!!! this rifle with it's factory stock and barrel was shooting about 1MOA but now it is a rock solid sub 1/2MOA gun all day long!!!
I'm working with a pre-accu-trigger 7 rem mag I picked up at a pawn shop for a song. First 3 shot group with the cheapest ammo I could find was about .7". I can't wait to see what it does with hand loads, a decent stock and improved trigger.
I'm in the same boat as you Grumpy and had ask the same question in a prior thread. I think I'm going to pick up a B&C medalist and may throw a Criterion on it. I've had several of those barrels and they all shoot!
LRPut - rifle is now installed in a medalist. It installed with no problem. The barrel channel needed a little sanding to free float the factory sporter barrel but not much. I'm hoping to get to shoot it this weekend.
Grumpy,
Any shooting yet? I'm considering this stock and I'd like to learn how it shoots etc. I need a hunting stock and this one's on the list.
I've got no major complaints. It's a good weight (2.2 lbs), feels solid, and has a good shape. I had to sand some out of the barrel channel for even the sporter barrel on the rifle now, but not much. I also had to cut out some material to get full relief for the Rafle Basix SAV 1 trigger. You'll want to replace the plastic trigger guard with a metal one because the higher torque on the rear action screw will crush the plastic one. But with those limited modifications and the price is definitely buy it again.
The question was about how it shoots. I like the weight and it recoils straight back. The only issue I would have might be the texture - or lack of texture - on the stock. The checkering is adequate, but the rest of the stock is pretty slick. Again, this is nothing that would stop me from getting another one.
I have a sinarms magnum contour barrel. Its 28 inches so it stays heavy for a ways. Do you think I could fit it in this stock with some sanding or is there not enough room?
There should be enough. The barrel on mine is a very traditional 22" sporter. Muzzle diameter is .560 (I'm going from memory, but it is definitely less than .600). According to Shilen a magnum contour is .685. I'm fairly certain there is enough material in the stock to make that work. My barrel was mostly free floating at installation, but there were a couple of points that needed sanding. I used a 7/8" dowel rod wrapped in sandpaper and it worked fine. There's now plenty of free-float but not an ugly gap. If you think a one inch dowel would work for you there is enough material for that.
A one inch dowel would be enough I think. It is .685 at the muzzle but with a longer taper at 28 inches. I currently have a duramaxx but am unhappy with it
Any experience with this stock improving your rifle's accuracy or making it worse? I'm not worried about loosing .1" from a group, but if you loose .5"...that's no good.
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