So I am starting to get into the more technical aspects of reloading at least for me. What are the benifits from annealing? I believe it allows for a more uniform case and extends Case life, but I am not sure why. What equipment is needed for annealing brass?
[QUOTE=fgw_in_fla;256183]We told you so...[/QUOTE]
Brass will get hard from being worked. Whether it is being severely necked down or up, or just being loaded over and over. Annealing re-softens the brass and allows it to be used longer and resize properly.
All you really need is a cordless drill with a socket attachment, a deep well socket that the brass will slide into, a pan of water, and a propane torch.
Here is a you tube video I found depicting basically how I do it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgD5D0Wzu-c
204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM
awesome thanks I got all of those.
[QUOTE=fgw_in_fla;256183]We told you so...[/QUOTE]
Boots hit the head on the nailTake a look here too ....http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
this vid was very helpful to me and no voodoo involved.
I do it with a drill and socket.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fiIr...layer_embedded
BTW, if you don't want to spring for something such as Light annealer .....http://www.cartridgeanneal.com/
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
My forehead still has the mark. Just glad it was a roofing nail rather than a finish nail. The tiny head on the finish nail mighta reached some grey matter, and hey I don't have much to spare.Originally Posted by BillPa
Boots hit the head on the nail
204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM
Where at in the reloading process do you anneal? Say I'm going to anneal after 2 firings, would I do it before I FL resize or after I've got the brass fully prepped?
Best to anneal before sizing as youll get more consistent sizing...work hardened brass wants to spring back after sizing.
I didnt watch the videos posted so im not sure if using tempilaq has been brought up but if your new to annealing id suggest getting a bottle of tempilaq 750 that way you know when the brass has been heated enough. I will put a dot of tempilaq on the inside of the necks on 5 or 6 cases and anneal 2 of them and count until the tempilaq melts then run 10 cases just counting then run one with tempilaq just to make sure im not getting to much or to little heat.
I do like the Tempilac too, but I have found it to be hard to remove after heating. Do you have any tricks for getting it off, or do you just leave it on the inside of the neck?
Bill recommended this setup to me about 2 years ago. I think its an excellant way to anneal.
I had tried other ways and they all seem to get it done. The liquid Tempilaq takes away
most chance of error in over heating. That could be used with any system you choose of coarse.
The Anneal Rite does allow for doing it very quickly however and theres no water involved.
50% alcahol dip will allow for removing the Tempilaq residue especially with a mild abrasive pad.
As above except no pan of water. Brass is unaffected by rapid cooling so all you really accomplish is adding a requirement to dry it when you're done.
Google "anneal brass", stretch out in your favorite recliner next to a large cooler (full, of course), and enjoy your evening reading.
bill, yobuck, good stuff, thanks for sharing, this is a great solution for a tight budget.
newbie from gr, mi.
Yep, I use that "machine" Bill and Yobuck are talking about. Seemed pricey at the time, but it is slick and fast. I really like it. Kinda get into a rhythm with it and just zip along. I find the tempelaq is good, and I use it on every one, but don't hardly need to because rig holds everything in the same position and I find myself counting... 1... 2... 3... drop. 1... 2... 3... drop. If it's easy enough for me, it's pretty dang good! :)
I made a modifacation for mine that eliminates any slippage in the adjustment height.
I was told that only happened because i didnt assemble it properly. But they did change
the instructions to eliminate that possibility after my complaint about it. My mod is simply
a pc of flat 1" aluminum stock with holes drilled at the proper hgt for all the cases i anneal.
When setting it up just put the bolt thru the propper hole.
i put the cases with the tempi off to the side then after sizing i use a brass bore brush on my lyman express and run the brush in the necks...it gets most of it off..i then use those cases as sighters the first time out...i learned the hard way the first time i used it on all the cases and ended up with a lot of fliers thats why i only do a few with the tempi now.
if your cheap like me you can make your own annealing set up for a few bucks...this is mine i made out of some scrapes i had lying around....
Good idea LR
Try putting it on the outside and it cleans off easily after dipping in alcohol.
As for speed of the Anneal rite. Last week a good friend stopped by with 180
378 wby cases. While i was setting up the unit he was applying a small dab of
Tempilaq on the outside neck of each case. He had a 50 case loading block done by the time
i had it set up. I then did 3 cases to show him how it was done before he took over.
I finished the dabbing with the Tempilaq on the others while he annealed them.
We were finished all 180 cases in less than 1 hour. If you were alone without distractions,
you could easily get a rythem and not need the tempilaq.
Move the tip of the flame down to the top of the shoulder so they're annealed too.if your cheap like me you can make your own annealing set up for a few bucks...this is mine i made out of some scrapes i had lying around....
Bill
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
thanks Bill....i do this pic was taken just to show the set up...my annealed brass looks like new lapua...about a 1/4 of the way down the case.
the problem i found putting it on the outside is that it burns off before reaching 750degs...i know the jury is still out on perfect annealing temps but 700 to 800degs seems to be about perfect...anything under seems to still give a lot of spring back and anything over seems to be to soft as in crushed shoulders when resizing or bumping shoulders back...at least thats been my experience.
I've been doing about 6-7 seconds just at the tip of the smaller blue flame while spinning slowly. I need to get some tempilac to test my method, but does anybody have a one one thousand two one thousand count that they use?
B/C I am using that machine with 2 flames, it goes much faster than that. By the time I get to "3 one thousand" the tempilac turns color and I drop it. But it also depends on the size of the case and the flame. With one torch and a .308 or '06 case, 7 might be real close to the right time.
Well id suggest playing around with trash brass first with any system you might decide on.
As for the tempilaq reaching the proper temp before turning black. It appears to me to burn off
slightly before actually doing that. I wait till it turns black before i dump the case. Its easier for me to
just fix my attention on seeing that than it is to be counting and watching also.
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