I switched the barrel from my 308 to a new one from criterion. At the same time, I changed the scope base to a 20 moa weaver mount. The farthest back screw will not engage the threads in the reciever. I left that screw out and remounted my vx2 4-12 that was on it previously (there was about six months between taking it off and putting it back on). The rings were never removed from the scope. I thought three screws would be enough to at least get it in the neighborhood as far as sighting it in (and let's be honest I just wanted to see what it could do). My first two shots went into the same hole about a foot left of where I wanted them. I adjusted the scope but after about six inches of movement to the right it stopped adjusting even though I could still hear and feel the clicks. I went through an entire revolution on the turret before unending out of correction and it moved maybe an inch. I then used Kentucky windage because I hate leaving the range with ammo and put the next 14 rounds into about a silver dollar. This tells me that my mounting is solid even with only three screws but I can't figure out why I ran out of correction.
You need to start over with the rail first, making sure it is flush with the receiver. Then you will have to loosen one of the scope mounts and get both of them flush with the rail. It seems one of your scope mounts isn't solidly in contact with the rail, or the rail itself is not right. Since one of the holes doesn't match the receiver, my bet is that the new 20 moa rail is your problem. My bet is that there is absolutely nothing wrong with the scope at all.
Joe
Savage 10 FCP-K with Bushnell 3.5-21x50 scope, lots of SIG Pistols.
Awesome I was thinking it was probably the base... The holes do line up but the screw just isn't quite long enough to engage the threads. So obviously I need to get a longer screw to fix that... Are you saying my rings might not be fully engaged to the 20moa mount? Or that the mount might not be straight? How do I fix the rail not being straight? It's a one peice base if that helps.
The rail might have induced your windage problem. I have an EGW 20MOA rail and it induced considerable windage, tried 2 scopes and both needed significant horizontal to zero.
As far as the clicks and not moving that is another problem. I'd suggest checking the manual for the scope and find out how much windage adjustment it is supposed to have. Then back it off to the left, counting the clicks until you feel that it has bottomed out. This is to figure out how many clicks right it went to see if you ran out of adjustment, or whether it's messed up.
I suspect the base as well. Make sure theres no burrs or mushroomed edges. Make sure its sitting flush to the gun both front and back with the screws loose.
Try this. Get the correct screw so you have all four. Tighten to snug and back off about a half turn. Do this to all four. Now wiggle the base side to side and see how much play you have.
Normally there really isnt much of any play. Could be the hole size ran big on yours and you may have some play. Try your best to center the screw in the hole and tighten it. Do this front and back then tighten.
If this doesn't help and no problems are seen then return it to egw.
I agree with most here that your windage issue lies with your base, or at least the installation of your base. If your base is in fact a Weaver brand picatinny rail, here's what your problem most likely is. First, remove your scope. Remove all your mounting screws from the base, and look at them closely. Some will be longer than others. Include the one that was "too short". Reinstall by using the shortest screws to the front, longer ones to the rear. Also notice, while you have the screws off, that they are flat on the underside of the head, as opposed to beveled. This means that they will not self-center when tightened in the mounting holes of the rail. When the screws are installed, but slightly loose, there will be some side-to-side slack with the rail as one of the other posters noted. This is your problem. Since the screws will not self-center, you will need to move the rail in the direction you desire, and then retighten the screws. Or return it and get one that does self-center (EGW is one).
Now take your scope, and center the reticle. Do this by turning the windage adjustment all the way in one direction. Don't force it, as that can cause damage. Now slowly turn it all the way to the opposite stop, counting the clicks as you go. Now divide the total clicks by two, and turn it back that many in the opposite direction. Do the same with your elevation turret. This should place your scope back in the center of its adjustment range.
Now remount your scope. Bore sight it by removing the bolt and mounting the rifle in a solid rest, such as a cleaning cradle, and looking thru the bore at a fixed target about 25 yards away. Center the target in the bore as best as possible. Now, WITHOUT MOVING THE RIFLE AT ALL, look through the scope. It should be close to the center of the target horizontally. If it is not, rather than moving the adjustments on your scope, I'd remove the scope, loosen and readjust the rail, retighten the base, and remount the scope. Repeat until its very close. Then take it to the range and fine-tune with the scope.
I have a Weaver rail that drove me nuts until I figured this out. Once properly mounted and tightened, it has never moved or shifted though. Good luck. Feel free to PM me if you have questions.
Last edited by barrel-nut; 12-28-2014 at 12:14 PM.
An easier way than counting clicks to center your reticle is to put your scope objective flush against a mirror with plenty of light (bathroom). Look through your scope and you will see two cross hairs. Adjust the windage and elevation until they line up. Ideally, you want to keep the reticle centered in your scope as close as possible to the bore without using up your windage or elevation clicks.
Seldom have I found the scope base mount holes on a Savage action to be centered with the barrel bore. Sometimes they are way off. That's why I like the Burris Signature Zee rings with inserts. You can zero the scope on paper as close as possible using the inserts instead of using up all the scopes windage and elevation clicks to get it zeroed.
Centering the adjustment by counting the number of total clicks then halving that and think your centered might not be so.
You need to find the center of the adjustment range which could well be off center. Ive never tried the mirror arraingment
but that could work from what im hearing. Otherwise look into the scope while turning it and count the clicks when the reticle starts and
stops moving. then center for that ammount. Adding tapered bases can sometimes cause windage zero issues as the adjustment
range diminishes as the scope nears the bottom of the elevation range. Sometimes the only fix is by using adjustable rings such as
the burris rings with inserts as has been mentioned.
What model of scope do you have?
Vx2 4-12 I'm waiting on longer screws from brownells. When they come in ill get remounted and try to zero again! Thanks for the help everybody!
Members who have read this thread in the last 1 days: 0
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks