skim bedding aluminum bedding block

[Bigeclipse]

Who has skim bedded a stock with an aluminum bedding block? My remington 700 currently does not shoot to well...lucky to get 1.2MOA. I have never bedded any stocks before so with this I was going to bed the recoil lug and try skim bedding the aluminum block where the action screws come up. I'm planning to use devcon. From what I have read I should scuff up the aluminum. Degrease/remove all oil from bedding block and recoil lug area. Kiwi polish the entire action and barrel so things don't get stuck. I'm planning on using headless action screws with tire tubing to hold action in place. Use plenty of devcon especially in lug area. For the parts that are getting skim bedded...do you simply put some paste down and then squeeze action until it stops...meaning parts of the action will contact the aluminum block as it did before but now the devcon will fill the spaces that did not touch the action? I understand these spaces can be quite thin in spots. Does this eventually lead to cracking? I do not have the tools to grind out aluminum and even if I did I am nervous about doing a bedding job like that which is why I'm trying this first. If it still doesn't shoot I will grind it done and bed it like normal.

[FW Conch]

Just askin here, but since when is 1/2moa from a Rem700 considered a "non shooter" ? ?

If you do bed to the block, only cleaning is necessary, you don't have to grind.

Many people who have done this have seen no improvement.

Good Luck :-))

[Bigeclipse]

Just askin here, but since when is 1/2moa from a Rem700 considered a "non shooter" ? ?

If you do bed to the block, only cleaning is necessary, you don't have to grind.

Many people who have done this have seen no improvement.

Good Luck :-))

I didn't say 1/2 moa I said 1.2 moa. These are with handloads And to me that's not that great. I suspect it is the stock because the groups typically are slightly smaller... around .5-.75 MOAwith fliers opening them up to greater than 1 MOA but it could be the ultrathin barrel.

[jim_k]

I gouge out channels in the front of the recoil block, and all along the aluminum bedding block under the front of the action, with a Dremel tool. Do not gouge out right around the front action screw hole, since that will establish the proper elevation and angle of the action in the stock. I also putty in front of the recoil lug, since I am going to put bedding gel under the first 2" of the barrel. I don't do anything to the rear action screw on a Savage until I see how it shoots, but I do float the rear of the action, so the tang doesn't touch the stock. Don't do what I do, unless you get some other opinions to agree, cause I don't want to be to blame if it's no good. It's just the way I do it. Mine have shot 0.27-0.37" 5-shot groups doing that. However, the ones I have done did not shoot anywhere near that good until they were bedded.

[MechEng]

I recently did my Rem700 SPS tactical in 308. I put it in a B&C A2 Medalist, and skim bedded with Devcon. For surface prep, I scuffed the block with 80 grit sandpaper (carefully) to give it some bite, and then cleaned with alcohol. Prepped the action with Johnsons Paste Wax for a release agent, and held it in place with the action screws (also prepped with paste wax) torqued just past finger tight.

Very happy with the results (gun was around 1 MOA originally, now well under 1/2 MOA with hand loads on a factory barrel.)

Take your time with the prep work, as tedious as it may seem. You'll get professional results.

[Bigeclipse]

I recently did my Rem700 SPS tactical in 308. I put it in a B&C A2 Medalist, and skim bedded with Devcon. For surface prep, I scuffed the block with 80 grit sandpaper (carefully) to give it some bite, and then cleaned with alcohol. Prepped the action with Johnsons Paste Wax for a release agent, and held it in place with the action screws (also prepped with paste wax) torqued just past finger tight.

Very happy with the results (gun was around 1 MOA originally, now well under 1/2 MOA with hand loads on a factory barrel.)

Take your time with the prep work, as tedious as it may seem. You'll get professional results.

Did you bed all the way down the action including the sides or just the recoil lug, and action screw areas?

[FW Conch]

Oh....1.2MOA....duh....My bad, the old eyes should have read closer :-((

I have some hunting rifles that shoot very tight 3 or 4 shoot groups, and the 4th or 5th opens it up to an inch or more. But since they are primarily big game hunting rifles, I don't fret about it. And I too believe that comes from a "skinny" barrel heating up?

Good Luck/Good Shooting.........Jim

[Bigeclipse]

Oh....1.2MOA....duh....My bad, the old eyes should have read closer :-((

I have some hunting rifles that shoot very tight 3 or 4 shoot groups, and the 4th or 5th opens it up to an inch or more. But since they are primarily big game hunting rifles, I don't fret about it. And I too believe that comes from a "skinny" barrel heating up?

Good Luck/Good Shooting.........Jim

Haha no problem! Yeah I would have thought it might be heat but sometimes it's the 2nd or 3rd shot sometimes it's the 5th and I always allow time for cooling. I figure bedding it can't hurt. If it doesn't work I may seriously consider rebarrel it.

[FW Conch]

If you re-barrel, will you go with a "Remage" set up, as sold by NSS ?

Thanks......Jim

[MechEng]

Did you bed all the way down the action including the sides or just the recoil lug, and action screw areas?

I bedded the whole receiver (from the rear tang) up to about 1/4" past the chamber. Went up the sides flush to the top of the stock. Very snug fit, and without residual stresses.