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Thread: What twist rate? Difference is sav 1 and sav 2 trigger?

  1. #1
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    What twist rate? Difference is sav 1 and sav 2 trigger?


    I am working on my parts list for a .280 ai. What twist rate for the barrel? I am hoping to shoot 160 to 180 grain bullets.

    what is the difference in the rifle basix sav 1 and sav 2 trigger? This will be on a hunting rifle.

  2. #2
    michaelnel
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    The SAV-2 is very difficult to set up to be both safe and light trigger pull. Installation requires filing to fit. Slam fires upon closing the bolt are a distinct possibility unless you are very gentle with the bolt. Support and documentation are both terrible. I have two SAV-2s and will never buy another.

    I would recommend going with the Sharp Shooter Supply Competition Trigger for a hunting rifle. http://www.sharpshootersupply.com/

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  4. #4
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    I run SAV-1's on multiple rifles. Recently shot. Precision match in 5-30mph winds and had the action get full of sand multiple times. Guys with Remi's and very high end triggers fail numerous times. One guy Dropped out of the match because of how bad his trigger got. The SAV-1 is very simple mechanically and replaces only the factory trigger and not the entire trigger group. I had no trigger issues that day.

    I also know guys that love their SAV-2's. I have not used one so that's why I don't speak to it. I run my.SAV-1 around 1.5-2lbs and am very confident in it's safety and reliable break.

  5. #5
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    The SAV-2 is difficult to set up but it is woth the effort. I have mine set at 14oz and have not experienced a single slam fire in two years of shooting. Now I can't attest to any weight below 14 oz but that's my experience.
    One final note, if you are going to hunt with your new build perhaps the SAV-1 would be a better choice. Can't offer any input on the barrel twist, sorry.

  6. #6
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    If you're going to a Rifle Basix for "hunting", best to go with the Sav 1 and set it at about 2 pounds. Crisp brake and no problems with unexpected firing. Even the Sav 1 can be set "real lite".
    Mine are used on bench guns but in a hunting situation, best to go to a heavier pull for safety sake. Set it up and double check often. Very easy to install and very reliable.
    Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.

  7. #7
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    Shilen's web page suggest a 1 in 9 twist for bullets 140 grains and heavier (7mm bore).

  8. #8
    JTCrl
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    I have a SAV-2 on a target action. Drop in installation, absolutely no problems. Got it to settle in with a nice, crisp, consistent 4oz pull. Creep and overtravel are undetectable. I can make it slam-fire if I really ham fist it but normal cycling is not a problem.

    Whether you will use the rifle for hunting, varmint shooting, or target shooting makes a huge difference in what trigger best suits your purpose.

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    It will be a hunting rifle mostly. Some target but not much. I have decided on a sss trigger. He is going to true and time the action.

    what length barrel do you suggest for a 280 ai hunting rifle. I am thinking either a 24 or 26" barrel, varmint contour, fluted with a brake.

  10. #10
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    My thoughts are the contour would be a bigger issue than length. I built a 338-06 with a Shilen 26" varmint contour barrel and man is that think front heavy. Shoots great but it would be a pain to lug around any where.

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    I think fluting is overated for the cost. Looks nice, but I'd rather a light varmint contour and put the extra $100-$150 somewhere else.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by olddav View Post
    My thoughts are the contour would be a bigger issue than length. I built a 338-06 with a Shilen 26" varmint contour barrel and man is that think front heavy. Shoots great but it would be a pain to lug around any where.
    I would agree with Olddav on the contour, a 300 win mag I put together with 26 inch varmint contour is definitely front heavy. My main complaint is when slung over your shoulder the barrel weight try's to flip the rifle to a muzzle down position, you constantly have to hold the sling to keep it upright if you are moving around.

    i built my 280ack imp with a fluted magnum contour barrel also 26" with a muzzle break and it's a good combo. You might want to check into something along those lines and see how you like it.
    It's hard not to just grab it when I head out to hunt.

    This is a link to my 280ack imp if you would like to see the barrel contour in relation to barrel length and such.
    http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...fore-and-After

  13. #13
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    I like the look of that magnum fluted barrel. Is there any advantage to a heavy barrel other than heat distribution?

  14. #14
    Basic Member BarrelBurner's Avatar
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    In a typical hunting rifle I don't think heat would be a real concern. But the heavier the barrel the more rigid it will be, which can aid in accuracy.
    The two mag contour hunting rigs i have both do 1/2 moa regularly and sometimes a little better, granted that's with reloads.

  15. #15
    Basic Member bootsmcguire's Avatar
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    Unless you are going to be shooting several rounds in a real quick succession, the added heat dispersion is not needed. Flutes are (as others above said) over rated and their potential added benefits are arguable, for the cost skip them unless you just have to have that cosmetic look.

    Personally I like varmint barrels for hunting and my go-to do-all rifle is a (still as it left the factory sans optics) 12FV in 308 Winchester. However, I rarely have had to pack it more than 3/8 of a mile on pretty flat terrain so the weight is not an issue, but if I were building it just to be a hunting rig then I would definitely go with a Magnum Contour (maybe .700" at the muzzle) 26" barrel and be happy. With proper load development and as long as the barrel is made properly, then 1/2 MOA for 3 shots should no be a huge challenge.
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