I posted a few months ago about trouble mounting a one-piece base on my quite-old-but-new-to-me Savage 110 because of what turned out to be a poorly milled action. Thread
Here's what it looked like:
I ended up choosing to permanently bed the base (EGW 20-MOA rail), building up the rear of the action with Devcon 10110 to make it level. The rear screw holes in the action were at a big angle, so I only put those screws in snug. The front screws I torqued to 20 inch-pounds. I used Devcon 10110 on the front (just a bit) and the back (a lot). Since it was going to be a permanent job anyways and the rear screws couldn't be torqued down too much without risking angling the base, I let the Devcon get into the holes in the action. Unsurprisingly, this caused problems. Devcon got all over the inside of the action, which this forum had made abundantly clear I should absolutely avoid. I used acetone-soaked cotton pads to get it out. I was confident that I got the rear of the action clean, but I could not tell on the front. I was very relieved when I reassembled it and the bolt functioned correctly. In the end, I got the base mounted reasonably level, the bolt moves freely through the action, and it cycles ammo. Success?
I'm posting the follow-up for three reasons. First, I really appreciated everyone's help, and I wanted to show you the result. Second, I know I messed up a lot, but I don't necessarily understand exactly what I messed up or how I should do it better next time; I value your feedback! Third, I couldn't find much information on permanently bedding a base, so I hoped this might be a resource for someone else, probably as a warning of what not to do.
Finished product:
I got a bit overzealous in cleaning up the Devcon that flowed over the sides and ended up taking away too much on the left. Hopefully, it won't impact the stability of the base.
Prep:
I used shoe polish where I didn't want the Devcon to stick. My biggest worries were getting Devcon in the action (I totally got Devcon in the action), and bonding the action to the barrel nut or barrel, since I plan to change barrels. I tried to clean up the former; I won't know about the latter until I eventually try to change barrels, unless one of you sees something I don't. I used a Dremel with a sanding wheel to rough up the action and the base. I have no idea if I roughed the surfaces up enough or too much. Thoughts?
Doing my best to get it level:
I'm obviously short on tools. I lightly clamped the base between two pieces of wood and used a level on the tang (I think that's what it is) as a reference point for level. After I torqued the front screws down, the result was what seemed to me a reasonably level base.
So there you go. It's now reassembled and seems to be functional. At the recommendation of multiple forum members, I purchased Burris Signature Zee Rings, which will hopefully allow me to fix whatever alignment problems remain between the base not being level and possibly not being lined up with the barrel. I really value your feedback, so if you see things that I messed up, please let me know so that I can do a better job next time.
Also, it looks like my earlier post was moved from Optics and Mounts to 110-series parts Q&A. Since this follow-up post is about how I bedded the base and is asking for criticism, I hope this is posted in the correct place. J. Baker, I read your post, and I apologize if this doesn't belong here.
This takes me back, I'm had forgot about your quest.
It looks good to me, but I don't think I've ever roughed up an action before bedding. I believe that you only need to clean it.
As far as the barrel is concerned, if you find the barrel nut difficult to break free you can cut it and just replace it (have a new one in hand before cutting the existing on off). Hats off to your efforts so far.
Can't wait to see how it holds up while shooting.
Looks good to me. How'd that one ever make it out of the factory like that, huh? Also I didn't know that apparently some of the older guns used the smooth barrel nut.
I thought this was not possible according to what I have heard on here. It has been said over and over that the actions are warped. Not machined wrong.
Spend some time with a 1"-2" mic. I think you'll find them (and other makes) aren't perfect.Originally Posted by tomme boy
1.350" ?
...and that was only at one spot. Its why I kinda chuckle when someone says the base(s) fit "perfectly" and why I bed every action to the base.
An action being warped, bent or twisted is a whole other issue. Those conditions will throw the ring alignment out of whack.
Bill
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
Only .003" differnce? Hell, you have a good one!
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
What about the one shown above of the rear of the action Sharpshooter? How many of them are out there like that one before anyone thought to check them.
tommie boy,
You are correct, I was one that said the action was twisted but after many questions I abandoned that position. I am looking forward to seeing a range report as this has been an interesting couple of threads.
It's not warped at all. They just machined it wrong.
I agree. If it were warped, the bolt raceways would be canted, yet parallel with the top. They are obviously not.
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