What makes a rifle accurate?

[icker96]

p.s. 3 things I did:

1: I made sure my gun was sitting on the bag farther back so the stock was not flexing into the barrel
2. I am tall and long waisted and I when I shoot from a bench I usually have to hunch over. This time I put my front and rear bags on 2x4s. This raised the level and allowed me to sit a little straighter and more upright. I think ir really helped my technique
3. I unscrewed my recoil pad and put some tabs in to space it out a bit and increase my length of pull.

[LongRange]

Great to hear your getting things dialed in! Are these 100yds groups?

[icker96]

Yes, 100 yds. Sorry I forgot to mention distance

[olddav]

Yep, looks like you and the rifle have potential. How long between shots?

[icker96]

not much. I shot it as one 10 round string, so just the time to single load a bullet and get back on target.

[olddav]

I'm sure you know this but try taking a couple of minutes between shots, should tighten up the group.

[icker96]

yes, but I am trying to get involved in the modified F-class competitions at my range. It requires 30 shots in 30 minutes. I have to engage 6 targets with 5 shots each.

[sav250]

Sounds like a weird question, but I am new to rifle shooting and bought a Savage 11/111 Trophy Hunter in 223 thinking I just wanted to have fun putting holes in paper and plinking. Turns out I have gotten into reloading, and have really enjoyed the shooting and the quest for the 1 hole groups. I am still playing with developing the right load and have managed sub MOA groups, but I am having a hard time getting under 1/2 inch at 100 yards.

Is it possible to get sub 1/2 MOA from a factory rifle? If I get a new barrel will it completely improve my accuracy? or does the accuracy come from the action itself? if it comes from the action, is a factory mass produced action machined well enough to be really accurate? I would hate to buy a new barrel and find out that the action is not machined well enough to be consistent, so I can never get the accuracy I want.

Ultimate question, can I make this rifle shoot the way I want, or do I need to start all over? If I can make it shoot the way I want, how? If I need to start all over, suggestions?

I never ran into a Savage rifle in bolt or lever that was not accurate. Savage uses button rifling in respected chrome-molly barrels and for some reason no one who knows about Savage barrels ever disses them.

So I say keep the 11 you already have an accurate cartridge with a bolt that is second to none.

THEN, if you have any accuracy issues I'd look in the mirror and make a wish either for the bald faced truth or the fairest fantasy of all.

I am being facetious:)

I am being truthful.

[LongRange]

yes, but I am trying to get involved in the modified F-class competitions at my range. It requires 30 shots in 30 minutes. I have to engage 6 targets with 5 shots each.

interesting...are the targets all the same distance or do they vary? also what is the longest distance you shoot at these matches?

[JCalhoun]

Icker

I measure groups outside to outside (the farthest points) and subtract the bullet diameter.

As for your project, it looks like you are on the right track accuracy wise. Does your rifle have a heavy or sporter contour barrel? Thin barrel can be quite accurate but heat up quickly and hot barrel tend to throw bullets more.

Since you already know the stock is flimsy I'd replace it with a composite or laminated wood. Bedding the action to the new stock will possibly help but never hurt.

The next big change I would do is get a quality target scope. I have a couple of Leupold VX2 6-18X 40mm AO Targets that I love. Great scopes for the money. You could like something else but I suggest something with good clarity and eye relief.

If 100y is all you will shoot then the BR target bullets would be something to try. These are the flat base bullets. Berger comes to mind but I'm sure there are others.

But to answer your original question, I think what makes a rifle accurate is a good barrel in a good stock with a good trigger and good sights (or scope).

BTW, I'm tall also and I hate shooting from the shorty benches. A really good rifle shooter at our club has one of those adjustable drummer's stools he carries so he can raise or lower his body position rather than build up the rest. I keep a few short 2X8's in the truck and use that under the rest if I can't get a human sized bench. It helps some but not as good as real bench.

[icker96]

interesting...are the targets all the same distance or do they vary? also what is the longest distance you shoot at these matches?

Everything is at 100. The range is going to build a 300yd bay and is in the process of permitting. They just got the hardest permit so hopefully it will happen in the near future

But for now I just shoot 100yds unless I travel which I will do some once I become proficient at 100.

[icker96]

JCalhoun, it is a sporter barel and I have a Pusuut X1 6-24x 44mm scope. It actually has good optics and works great for 100yds. Not sure if it will be enough when I move out to 300. I think I am pretty sold on replacing the stock with a Boyd's Pro Varmint (used to be Tacticool).
I will try flat base bullets for the 100 yds. What do you guys suggest for weight in a 1:9 barrel? Should I stay heavy or just try 55gr? (I think foxx said 55 in an earlier post). I would assume I would then have a FB load for 100yds and a BT load for 300. When I get to 300 will I need to change the BT load I am currently using at 100?

Sorry for all the continuing questions, but you guys are a wealth of knowledge so I am soaking up as much as you will give me

[LongRange]

Got ya on the distances. As far as bullets I personally shoot heavies in both my riffles as they do better in the wind as long as you can keep velocities in the upper ranges for the bullet weight. As far as your BT load and 300yds you will need to shoot it at 300 and see if it holds together if not you will be able to tighten it up with a little tweak in powder or seating.