Reply With QuoteThe .243 will use the same magazines as the .308/7mm08.Originally Posted by Heckler
Great job. Is there any options to do this with a 243?
The .243 will use the same magazines as the .308/7mm08.
sorry for just getting back to here, im not getting emails again telling me there was replies
i drilled holes to small for the finishing nails and used a vice to slowly drive them in, so pressure hold them in place like any other pinned item and 15 rounds was short enough to use on the bipod, 20 was just to much mag and looked silly so i could have went with 10 but i like 15 better
by the way im over 400rds thru this mag now, still not one issues to date
Last edited by nathantc; 01-26-2015 at 05:15 AM.
Did you end up making a video on YouTube for this. Would love to watch it. Give us newbies a bit more confidence
how about a video that shows how you made the mag? not to be a ick but that video above shows nothing!!!!!
that video shows it working flawlessly, and sorry i don't have another mag to build one off of to make a video nor the patience to hold a camera while using both hands to fiddle with it, the pix i provided are more than enough for anyone who is mechanically inclined or use to working with their hands, as you can see another member here did just that, he made some changes but got the same end result so dont be scared just give it a try, be creative cause everything i done was with hand tools, no special tools needed
I put one together during the cold snap we had a week ago.
It functions fine but I must admit it was not the easiest project I have attempted, and I build Kentucky rifles from scratch so I am no stranger to making things go together.
Also, the Savage mag you take apart and hollow out the floor plate of is an expensive item at $35-$50.
For those with five thumbs and power tool challenged the purchase of a finished mag at $80 is not really that extreme.
The Savage mag is $30 and the hi-cap mag you sacrifice is $10-$30. You can trash $40-$60 with one wrong move.
very true, and i do agree, i simply was showing that for the guys who do know their way around tools and can be imaginative with some basic knowledge of how a mag works then its pretty simple really
how well does your mag work, i have always had bad luck with thermold mags even in the rifles they were made for
I'm waiting to see details on a build for the .308 mag. I'm interested in that one for use with both an Axis .308 and a .243. I'm mostly interested in cutting them down to 10-rounders. I may try to put something together myself since I have a small pile of Savage Axis mags and a bunch of various types of G3 mags lying around the shop. Anyway, I anxiously await seeing what someone else comes up with for the Axis .308!
You lucky dog! I've been trying to find an Axis mag for my .243, and those places that actually have them in stock want anywhere from $45-$65 (plus shipping) for them!
I really want to try this mod, since I shoot in some "practical" competitions that require shooting 6-8 rounds downrange within a limited time, and I'm frustrated (after emptying that silly 4-round mag) by trying shove single rounds in thru the ejection port and position them so that they feed correctly...
I'd even pay $80 for one of the "expertly modified" 10-round mags (as Mortblanc mentioned), but in the .243/.308, those mags are $110 plus shipping...almost half the cost of the entire rifle!
OK, I've got all the pieces to do this for my .243 Axis, and I've got one big hurdle...I can't figure out how to drill holes in the original Axis mag! It must be made of some super secret special bulletproof steel!
I've tried everything: hand drill, drill press, HSS bits, cobalt bits, carbide bits, drilling with cutting oil, drilling dry, "pecking" (had to look that one up)...nothing is even making a dent in that #%^&@!* steel mag! It's frustrating as all get-out!
The only thing that's even helped a LITTLE bit is using a Dremel with a diamond burr; that at least put a bit of a dent into the metal, but unfortunately the burr tip is too large for the size hole I want (1/16").
So...anyone...what's the secret to drilling thru this thing? A $20,000 cutting laser? Explosives?
lol you need a drill bit made for stainless, hope that helps, and it need to have a pretty sharp angle to the tip,, also a drill dr to make **** sure that bit is sharp and you should have no issue
Any suggestions for brand/model? I've probably spent $25 on several "specialized" drill bits suggested by the local hardware stores, so I'm not eager to ask them for any other information/suggestions...I see some listed on Amazon, but those are sold in pack of 8 for $64
not sure tbh
Well, that was a dismal failure; picked up a "speciality" drill bit, "designed for stainless steel"...yeah, right, no different than any of the other bits that have failed to bite into this thing.
OK, now seriously, anyone want to make a few bucks by drilling this mag body for me? I'm not willing to give up on this, but I'm out of ideas. I'll even pay shipping both ways. and $5 for a single hole drilled. Anyone?
thats insane, not sure why your having such a hard time, give a local gunsmith a ring and see if he has any insight on it
this is true, but i just had to try for myself with the mag that came with the rifle, had i messed it up i would have just payed for one already done but i knew i could do it
that last post was about this, sorry hit the wrong buttonI put one together during the cold snap we had a week ago.
It functions fine but I must admit it was not the easiest project I have attempted, and I build Kentucky rifles from scratch so I am no stranger to making things go together.
Also, the Savage mag you take apart and hollow out the floor plate of is an expensive item at $35-$50.
my last post was about this one, sorry wrong button ... i feel dumb
For those with five thumbs and power tool challenged the purchase of a finished mag at $80 is not really that extreme.
The Savage mag is $30 and the hi-cap mag you sacrifice is $10-$30. You can trash $40-$60 with one wrong move.
You might try heating the spots your wanting to drill with a propane torch.
If I understand that correctly, that will soften the metal by "annealing" it? Will that work with stainless steel?
After doing LOTS of searching about drilling stainless steel, I found these statements:
"just apply alot of pressure and pulse the drill so it never gets hot if stainless gets hot it will crystalize and you will never drill a hole in it."
I think this is probably what happened with the first set of bits I tried (the steel got too hot and crystalized), and that ruined my chances for drilling with the other bits.
"I Needed to drill some stainless steel, hi quality restaurant grade. So before I burned a dozen bits, called a friend that does iron work. Neat tip. Take a center punch, and grind it on 4 points, like a pyramid, then make the starting point. The bit will cut better then just the normal "dimple" made be a normal center punch. If the bit starts to run dry (as in not cut), dimple again with the punch. I tried it tonight and drilled 24 holes in a 3/16 plate with the same bit with out sharpening once. This was with a hand drill, not a drill press."
This is what I'm going to try next.
If that doesn't work...well, I don't want to pay someone $30 to drill a couple of holes, so I'll probably just forget the whole thing...I'm just out the cost of the G3 mag ($8 if I remember right), and the cost of the various drill bits (maybe another $40), which I can probably use for drilling other materials, just not steel...
Do you know if the Axis mag works in the model 11vt?
the axis mag is not the same as a standard mag, the floor plate is much different
But there are Model 11s that use Axis-style mags. If the 11VT magazine has a plastic tab on the floorplate, then it is the same as an Axis magazine. Based on this, they are the same.
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