Reply With QuotePlease do keep this up dated im interested in this.
Hey guys,
Just starting a new project. Im going to convert a Rem M700 I've had for several years over to a remage with a barrel nut. Figured I would go step by step along the way with pics to show how its done and what is needed. I know for some of the veterans here it will be nothing new, but for some newbies I thought it might be interesting. This is my first conversion so its new to me as well.
For starters its M700 ADL short action chambered in 22-250. I had the action bedded, barrel floated and the trigger worked on about 10 or 12 years ago. Rifle probably has no more than 100 rds down the pipe.
Here are the starter pics.
I will keep the thread updated as the work progresses or digresses lol
Scooter
I'm the Boss. I make sure what she wants gets done.
Please do keep this up dated im interested in this.
How hard was the barrel to get off?
Dean
RUMs are like woman in Stiletto heals, you know they are going to put you in the poor house, but that has never stopped anyone from pursuing them.
I was actually going to get to that on my next post, i just dont have pics uploaded yet. It was a little rough, but a little heat (inside the chamber) works wonders. Ill get some more detail with the pics. I dont have a barrel vice, if I were to remove another one, I will have a barrel vice.
Scooter
I'm the Boss. I make sure what she wants gets done.
Is there any machine work required to be done to the action in order to convert to a barrel nut? Also, do you convert to a floating bolt head, or use the original bolt?
I'm just about to do the same with a Remington 700 .300wsm. I really wanted a heavier match grade barrel. Going with a Shilen 10" twist SS Select Match with a #7 contour. After reading your posts I'm glad I have a barrel vise and an action wrench ready to go.
no machine work and you use the remington bolt...your just using a jam nut instead of the shoulder to keep the barrel in place.Originally Posted by archerben
+1 on the no machining needed, and the regular bolt. Once the barrel is off its goes back together just like a normal Savage. Just need to make sure you get a barrel nut for a Rem conversion because the threads are different.
Sparky, you may need to bring a little heat to it as well....i used a propane torch inside the chamber for about 90 secs, to get the loctite melted.
Gonna post more pics tomorrow....
Scooter
I'm the Boss. I make sure what she wants gets done.
Heres the rifle out of the stock in the action wrench and ready to have the barrel removed
I taped up the barrel to keep from marring the finish, because the plan was to use a pipe wrench to break it loose
I ended up using a deadblow hammer to tap on the pipe wrench to break the barrel loose. I had to "tap" alot more and harder than exepcted, still to no avail, and this is what ended up happening to the barrel.
Fortunately I wasnt planning on keeping the barrel for anything other than maybe selling it as a pull off barrel, thats out of the question now...lol
Eventually this stopped me for the day (I dont have alot of time during the week to work on these little projects) so I figured since I lost some hide I had better stop.
This was the intial day of barrel removal...it didnt go as well as I had planned. Lol
This is where I think a barrel vise would be really helpful, and wouldnt(shouldnt) damage the barrel in the process. Live and learn, thats exactly why Im doing this post. Hopefully it will help somebody along the way.
Next posts will be with the barrel actually removed....and no more hide from hands.
Thanks for checking it out
Scooter
I'm the Boss. I make sure what she wants gets done.
Nice job so far, just an FYI if you keep that barrel and recoil lug, you can reinstall it at anytime, and everything will fall into place headspace ect, and next time it wont be as hard to get off, it is always good to have spares and options.
Dean
RUMs are like woman in Stiletto heals, you know they are going to put you in the poor house, but that has never stopped anyone from pursuing them.
And a quick spin in a lathe will remove some or all of the pipe wrench teeth marks....
Nice job...will follow this thread been wanting to do this for a while...a donor 700 rifle is in my future...
Also...for what its worth...If you ever have a barrel or an action turning under pressure in a barrel vise or an action wrench I found that tape is not your friend...under tough loads it will fail and give...CHAMOIS on the other hand has not doe so for me...I take a chamois cloth and cut it into strips, moisten in water, wring nearly completely dry that I can then make one wrap around the DRY DEGREASED barrel or action and then crank it down...never had it slip...or mar the working surfaces...
Last edited by CAPTBEACH; 11-04-2014 at 11:18 AM.
Another option is to knock the shoulder off, and Remage that barrel also.
Dean
RUMs are like woman in Stiletto heals, you know they are going to put you in the poor house, but that has never stopped anyone from pursuing them.
Interesting. It seems like somebody told me that you had to do a little one-time machine work so that the new recoil lug would work with the Remington action (I'm pretty sure it was Jim at Northland). If that machining is not necessary, that makes a Remage build much more attractive, as there seems to be much better aftermarket support for both triggers and stocks (especially long action) for Remington actions. Consider me subscribed and excited to see the results.
Also, with a non-floating bolt head, does it then become important to true the action and the bolt on a Remage bulid? I know that many don't consider this necessary on a Savage due to the floating bolt head.
That so called machine work, can be done with a Dremel, not what I would call a deal breaker, I have several of these Remages and never trued or did anything to they actions, and they are all very accurate rigs.
Dean
RUMs are like woman in Stiletto heals, you know they are going to put you in the poor house, but that has never stopped anyone from pursuing them.
My son and I are both doing one of these. We are both having a gunsmith remove the barrel (cheating) and he is having his smith pin the lug. I'm using one of Jim's lugs and having my smith cut the notch in the bottom of the receiver. Looking forward to seeing your finished product. The Remage seems like a great idea for the do it yourselfer.
By the way scooter what barrel, caliber and stock are you going with?
So there is indeed some work that needs to be done to the action (call it machine, dremel, or whatever). Scooter, when you get to that portion of the build, would you please detail in pictures the work that is needed to be done to the action?
It does not "need" to be done, you can reuse the Remington recoil lug, this mod is to make it easier to hold the recoil lug straight when tightening the barrel, "the lug turns as you tighten the barrel nut", this is done in a jig at the factory so it is not an issue.
Dean
RUMs are like woman in Stiletto heals, you know they are going to put you in the poor house, but that has never stopped anyone from pursuing them.
A lot of you probably already know about Sharp Shooter Supply but I saw on their site today that they make lugs and a jig to hold them. Looks like the jig attaches to the action screw to orient the lug correctly. If I had it to do over again that the way I'd go. I'll be waiting on my smith for several months to get this stuff done.
My 110BA recoil lug is not pinned and I had no problem when rebarreling it...the action is notched so not sure why the lug is not pinned but its not and NSS lug will not fit into the BA stock.
Yeah the savage already has a notch at the bottom of the action to orient the lug to the centerline of the action however the remington doesn't have any way to do this without milling a notch for one of Jim's lugs, pinning a lug or using a jig to keep the lug aligned while mounting a barrel. Savage has made it easy for the do-it-yourselfer to change barrels. One of the reasons the savage is so popular however, once a remington action is set up for a lug it's no problem to change barrels, calibers within the bolt face group or tinker.
I quickly found out tape wasnt helpful lol...thanks for the heads up on the chamois capt.
Dean I had sorta thought about being able to keep the barrel for a change every once in a while but wasnt sure, especially since it got marred up pretty bad.
Ben, I had planned to go into detail with the "machine work" so I gotcha covered when I get to that point.
Loneranger, I haven't decided on the stock yet, but Ive already got my barrel and caliber picked out. Its a Mcgowen 1:8 twist, chambered in the 6x55 Swede. Dean (aka scope eye), and Hot Olds turned me onto it a little while back, when i was asking about a 6mm. Thats a caliber I dont have and I wanted it to be different, so....thats what I went with. Its chambered using a 6br reamer (Dean, correct me if I'm wrong) but run in a little bit farther. Accuracy reports are really good and the speed is awesome too. There should definitely be a nice red mist factor where varmints are concerned. A big plus is being able to use Lapua brass, for reasonably cheap $70ish/100.
Scooter
I'm the Boss. I make sure what she wants gets done.
This was probably already mentioned above, but if not... MidwayUSA and other sites sell the recoil lug alignment tool for only about $35.
Hey Scooter, I would reuse that barrel, nothing a little sanding and spray bomb wont fix, it would be perfect for hunting and scratching it up again, I love that case whether it is a 22, 6mm, or a 6.5, once formed it holds 55+ grains of powder, which really opens up your options and settles they argument, of which short action 6.5 is better at least as far as I am concerned, which made me realize I have got to look into a 25 caliber version of this gem how sweet would that be.
Dean
RUMs are like woman in Stiletto heals, you know they are going to put you in the poor house, but that has never stopped anyone from pursuing them.
Ill probably end up keeping it anyway, i think i might prefer to knock the shoulder off and use it as a remage though. So...if it were a 25 cal, this is just off the top of my head but wouldnt that have more capacity than the 257rob...and probably put u in the 25-06 territory right?
Scooter
I'm the Boss. I make sure what she wants gets done.
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