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Thread: Shooting Benches

  1. #1
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    Shooting Benches


    Am building a bench with double 3/4 plywood top and removable three legs. It will sit here at the farm mostly, but will be "somewhat portable" so it can be moved in the truck bed or tractor bucket.

    Using right/left center arm design, and here is where I am stopped; layed it out as 36"-40" wide on front, 46-48" long, with 18" cutout for left/right. This is larger than most movable tables which seem too small on the layout board.

    Any suggestions from those that have built one?

  2. #2
    Basic Member 03mossy's Avatar
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    I have built 7 or 8 benches very similar to what you described for prairie dog hunting for our group. The first one I built is the sturdiest as it uses 2" (or 1.5" cant remember) well pipe for legs. After I cut out the 2 layers plywood for the top I cut 3 pieces of 6" 2x6's for the leg bases, rip them at a 45 degree angle and it gives you a perfect angle to mount the leg brackets too. The other tables I have just used folding table legs that you can get at home depot for $20. Munch handier but a touch less sturdy. Ill try and get some pics up for you.

  3. #3
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    Ive been building shooting benches for over 40 years. (ALL) of our long range hunting is done from a bench or very good shooting tripod.
    As for tripods, there are very few (good) ones. It all depends on what your needs are and how/where it will be used. Size and weight does
    not also mean stability. For us, portability is very important. Also being able to adjust to steep/uneven terrain is very important. The lower
    you make it the more stable it will be. We shoot sitting or from our knees due to that. If you want to shoot standing, you will need leg bracing if you
    want it solid. 3 legs wont be as solid unless the single leg is in front. Thats even true with welded metal frames. My portable bench weighs just about 20 lb.
    I start with an aluminum angle iorn rectangular shape frame made from 1 1/2x1/8" angle. Frame dimensions are about 20x32". The ends are mitered on a 45 deg.
    They are welded with a small triangular shape aluminum gusset welded in each of the 4 corners. On those in each corner is welded a 1" e m t conduit coupling angled
    slightly outward in both directions. The top itself is a single layer of 5/8" plywood 24x 36". The back is radiused in a rounded arc so as not to have sharp corners poking
    the shooter. There are no cutouts for right/left shooters. The legs are e m t electrical conduit. We use 1" for the outer leg and 3/4" for the inner leg. Remember pipe
    dimensions are inside dimension so 1" would have an o d of about 1 1/4". A 10' legnth of each size is enough for the 4 legs. We weld a block of aluminum about 3/4" square
    on each of the outer legs about 4" from the bottom. Then drill and tap for a 5/16 pc of allthread with a 90 deg bend for leg adjustments. Of coarse the top end of the outer pipe
    is threaded to screw into the couplings which were welded in the corners of the top. All the legs are stored on the bottom of the plywood top inside the frame when not in use.
    The whole thing is about 3" high x 24 x 36" when not in use. Standard iorn pipe can be used in lieu of the aluminum but at considerable difference in weight. I have a sling attached
    to the frame and sometimes it gets carried a mile or more from the vehicle.
    However, there is a very good alternative to a shooting bench for field use. Check out the ULTIMATE TRIPOD, by MCFADDEN MACHINE CO, BLAIRSVILLE PA.
    For a hunter, using guns as heavy as 20 lb. it has advantages over a bench. For one thing you can stand and shoot, and its easier to set up than a bench.
    An animal cant run away from you regardless of direction when using this tripod. We bungee the gun down to eliminate most jump when shooting.
    We also put the front swivel stud against the front rest block and put an angled bungee thru the trigger guard. It acts like a return to battery setup when you do that.

  4. #4
    Basic Member 03mossy's Avatar
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    Here are a few pics of my favorite bench. Its not even one I made, My father in law made it for me for Christmas one year.





    Here is the original with the well pipe legs


  5. #5
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    Have cut three 18* wedges from oak 6" X 6" squares that will cant the schedule 40 1-1/4" legs outward for stability, screwed into threaded wall mount couplings. Planned to use 1-1/4 schedule 40 legs with adjustable 1" inserts: leveled or raised. Do the EMT legs work well/ridgid?

    These are all great ideas members have offered, why would the front leg be a single instead of a double noting all three are adjustable? It's a stool leg set up. This first one may not be friendly portable. I'm sure it will weigh 60 lbs for the top. It can be moved, but not for a mile on foot!

    Those butcher block tops look great 03mossy.

  6. #6
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    I'll get some pictures of mine tonight. Folding 2x2x.120 wall legs two in the front one in the back. Maple butcher block top, it's heavy but still portable.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Appleseed View Post
    Have cut three 18* wedges from oak 6" X 6" squares that will cant the schedule 40 1-1/4" legs outward for stability, screwed into threaded wall mount couplings. Planned to use 1-1/4 schedule 40 legs with adjustable 1" inserts: leveled or raised. Do the EMT legs work well/ridgid?

    These are all great ideas members have offered, why would the front leg be a single instead of a double noting all three are adjustable? It's a stool leg set up. This first one may not be friendly portable. I'm sure it will weigh 60 lbs for the top. It can be moved, but not for a mile on foot!

    Those butcher block tops look great 03mossy.
    The emt legs work very well and are very ridged. However, as i said the higher you want the bench as like for stand up shooting, there will be flex
    that will require x bracing to eliminate. For shooting while sitting or kneeling next to the bench it isnt necessary for the bracing. Notice the terrain
    under the benches pictured. It is very even or flat and therefore those benches will work just fine. All of our shooting while hunting is on steep terrain,
    so adjustable legs are a must.
    Quite a few guys i know also use the tapered wood blocks at the corners for the flanges which hold the legs to screw into.
    They work well, but i feel the welded aluminum frame is better. It also eliminates the need for the double plywood top which adds weight.

  8. #8
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    I'm in agreement with you on the frame and top yobuck. How many inches of adjustable leg tube do you need for leveling, a 6"-8" insert?

    The name of the game is light as possible for transport, and adjustable for uneven ground. Fabricate the leg cuffs welded and gussetted onto 1/4" steel plate and bolt through from the top. I may use 2" x 3" undertable wood stiffners on the first one. On the way to the metal yard/machine shop now. Am grateful to live out in the country ag area, we have some good farm/welding suppliers servicing the chicken industry...the only industry we have after funiture left.

    I appreciate all the good advise, Savage Shooters is the best shooting site!

  9. #9
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    We make the inner leg about the same legnth as the outer. Your buying a 10' legnth anyway so use it. that way theres lots of adjustment
    and you can raise it and shoot from a crouched standing position. A REAL electrical supply is the best place to get it. The large box stores
    probably wont have it. Get the 4 couplings also for welding in the corners. They might even cut it and thread the top of the outer leg for
    screwing into the coupling. If not a plumber could do it or an electrician who does commercial type work where that type conduit would be used.
    I drive up 77 each time i come to PA. Sometimes go thru Hickory to visit an old friend also. Im aware of the furniture industry going to China
    like lots of others.

  10. #10
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    I may go with square 3/16 wall tubing on the first one. Legs will be 11/2" and 2" cuffs at table. Think it may be easier fabrication. Extentions will take a a little more work to get tight fit. have some more measuring to do.

  11. #11
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    Here's mine, it fits on the 2X2 frame my skeet thrower goes on. The front legs unbolt and the seat base is in a tube so it lifts out. The bench will unbolt by removing the two U bolts, I also made a universal joint of sorts to level the bench top front to back and side to side.




  12. #12
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    Great idea with the frame! Should have a first try put together today.

  13. #13
    campdude
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    I have built a few of these for myself and friends, they work well.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sMIWFXJ-8R8#t=371

  14. #14
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    Try and post pics after the paint dries next week. The steel square tube adjustable legs worked, bench is solid. I won't use treated 3/4" plywood again. Could have spent $20 more and had 1" birch plywood. Gluing/sanding/banding the treated b/c grade took longer than it was worth. Spent too much time shaping this one, the top is glued two layers 1.5" thick.

    This bench will be movable, one a bit smaller and with aluminum square tube legs should make it portable.

  15. #15
    snookyboy
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    If your looking for portable, this works best for me.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMmWAkoAkZ8

    No tools and is reversible for either right or left handers.

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