Aluma Hyde II and prep...

[CAPTBEACH]

I have several new cans of Alum-Hyde II on hand I hate to waste...I know there are better products out there now but these are just sitting there and are the colors I want to use so....I have a stainless recoil lug...never painted SS...will scuffing it up good with a 3M sanding pad (about 300 grit) be OK for good adhesion? It did a great job of removing the Bluing-Parkerization on the 110FP barrel and action, just seems like the SS is slicker and worried about paint flaking off...I plan on baking it for overnight at 200-225 after initial cure.

[CAPTBEACH]

And YES...I bought a package of spray tips...AH II is notorious for clogging tips...I do find that agitating the can for 5-10 minutes at a time, letting it rest for a few (arm too) and repaeting the process a coupe of times seemed to cure it of that problem...guy at Brownells customer service line advised to do that and it seem to help...

[mikgarus]

And YES...I bought a package of spray tips...AH II is notorious for clogging tips...I do find that agitating the can for 5-10 minutes at a time, letting it rest for a few (arm too) and repaeting the process a coupe of times seemed to cure it of that problem...guy at Brownells customer service line advised to do that and it seem to help...

I've also heard that heating the can a little bit also helps.

[snowgetter1]

Prior to getting a sand blaster, I always sanded parts with 150grit sand paper the paint will fill in any scratches.

[CharlieNC]

Of course de-grease well; I like to use carb or brake cleaner. Rustoleum on stainless has worked ok for me.

[Wildboarem]

Prepping the surface of SS by roughening the surface is key to a good bond, as is a good degreasing. AH2 is a thick epoxy and will fill more than 150grit could scratch. AH2 is not inferior to other finishes in my opinion, just not always user friendly. Other products (duracoat) cure faster I think. AH2 is a very tough finish, but you MUST let it cure fully before messing with it. I let it sit at least a week now.

[GaCop]

Prepping the surface of SS by roughening the surface is key to a good bond, as is a good degreasing. AH2 is a thick epoxy and will fill more than 150grit could scratch. AH2 is not inferior to other finishes in my opinion, just not always user friendly. Other products (duracoat) cure faster I think. AH2 is a very tough finish, but you MUST let it cure fully before messing with it. I let it sit at least a week now.

+1, they stress that point right on the rattle can to let the parts cure for at least five days.

[Gatr]

I decided I wanted to do a new stainless barrel with alumihyde 2 two days before my hunt. I degreased it, put it in the oven on 160 while I ran hot water on the spray can. I sprayed it and put it back in the oven for 3 hours. It held up amazingly on a ten day backpacking hunt, not a scratch on it.

[CAPTBEACH]

I decided I wanted to do a new stainless barrel with alumihyde 2 two days before my hunt. I degreased it, put it in the oven on 160 while I ran hot water on the spray can. I sprayed it and put it back in the oven for 3 hours. It held up amazingly on a ten day backpacking hunt, not a scratch on it.

Yes...I've had good luck with heat curing AH2...also set my cans on a heating pad for a couple of hours to warm them up...I also bought a bag of spare tips...each spray gets a new tip.