If it is a new one, it's small shank I believe. I might well be wrong though, so check with Jim Briggs at Northland Shooter Supply. He is also an excellent source for Criterion and Shilen barrels, and the tools and other stuff you need to change it.
Hello. I did a search here but could not get the answer I am looking for. I have the above rifle and I am starting my research about a custom barrel for this rifle. I am a newbie so please bear with me. I have a very basic questions.
Does this rifle has a small or large shank?
I will have many more questions but for now this is it.
Thanks for the help.
If it is a new one, it's small shank I believe. I might well be wrong though, so check with Jim Briggs at Northland Shooter Supply. He is also an excellent source for Criterion and Shilen barrels, and the tools and other stuff you need to change it.
Last edited by michaelnel; 10-03-2014 at 07:25 PM.
Thank you, sir. I will do that.
http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...126-Shank-size
Try this ^^^^^
Also how is your current barrel doing? reason I ask is I have a 110 also and was considering a new barrel but it's shooting fine after my minor tweaks.
Thank you, kbaerg. This is a brand new rifle and I have not had the chance to shoot it yet. My intention is to shoot it for a while before changing anything. I am just starting to learn about the art of long range precision shooting (I got a Savage 12LRP-6.5 Creedmoor for that). The 110FCP in 300WM is the one I will build to make it my "custom" rifle on a budget. I am starting my research so when time comes I will know what to do.
If you don't mind me asking, what were the minor tweaks you performed?
"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits"
Albert Einstein
Measure barrel nut length. 5/8" is large shank. 7/8" is small shank.
I have so much to learn. Would do. Thank you short round
"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits"
Albert Einstein
Shoot it with the factory barrel. I would bet you will find a great load for it as is. You may need to bed the action and free float the barrel and tang a bit.
Folks bemoan the fact that factory barrels are a bit rough and take quite a few rounds to get them to, but they do SHOOT some tiny groups!!!
Thank you, Sean. That is the plan on the barrel and I have been reading on bedding the action and free floating the barrel. The rifle has the HS Precision stock and I have seen opinions pro/against it. I would like to do it but can't make up my mind. Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks again.
"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits"
Albert Einstein
If you don't mind me asking, what were the minor tweaks you performed?[/QUOTE]
Sorry for slow response. All I have done with mine is torque the action, muzzle break, and worked my loads. I'm shooting 215 berger hybrids and getting 1/2 MOA or less at 300 yds with mine. I'm soon going with a thunderbeast silencer this winter.
Last edited by kbaerg; 10-08-2014 at 08:34 PM.
No problem at all kbaerg. I appreciate your reply and help. Which muzzle break are you using?
"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits"
Albert Einstein
I am trying out one by Witt machine. so far very impressed for a clamp on style.
Thank you, sir. I appreciate the follow up.
"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits"
Albert Einstein
you can have your barrel threaded for a break for about $75 bucks at a local machine shop...the JP enterprise recoil eliminator is a fantastic break,i swapped out the factory break on my 110BA 300 for the JP and love it. also i wouldnt waste a bunch of time and money on the HS stock just save you money and buy a choate stock you will be much better off in the long run.
I would be interested in that also. Since I am learning I am listening to different opinions.
Thanks again for the input.
"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits"
Albert Einstein
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