Reply With QuoteI've never seen one that loose. Maybe you should contact Savage.
Hey guys, I just bought a 114 American Classic in .270 brand new, and after shooting a box or two, what's listed as the "rear baffle" on a parts diagram I found fell off while I was cleaning. In case I'm wrong about that, the part I'm talking about is the "C"-shaped piece of metal that surrounds the bolt and lies in between the bolt handle and the rear of the gun. It is now extremely loose and ready to fall again if I actuate the bolt.
Questions: Is this a common Savage problem? I used to own a 110 a while ago and I remember the rear baffle (I hope that's actually the part I'm talking about) was always loose, but it never fell off. And is it a fairly simple fix?
I've never seen one that loose. Maybe you should contact Savage.
Originally Posted by alphapaintballref
At one time the bolt bodies were the same diameter end to end, but later the area around the cocking ramp was undercut like the one in this pic...
I don't remember why or when Fred (Sharpshooter) said it was done, but if you push the baffle forward enough into that relief cut it can and will come off. Been there dooded dat!
You can fight it back on the way it came off, but I just remove the BAS and bolt handle then slide the back on.
Bill
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
Bill, you're correct about my bolt shape--thanks for the insight! I called Savage--it turns out my rear baffle lost a screw, spring, and the ball bearing to hold it in the channel on the bolt. I bought it a few months ago brand new, yet, according to the serial number it's about 10 years old. I guess I got a gun that fell into a crack behind the counter for a while. The upshot of it is that I'll have to pay for my new baffle because Savage doesn't have my model any more and I have to buy it from a third party. It's not very expensive, but it's still kind of crappy that I have to pay for it.
Because it seems to have little to do with locking the bolt forward, can I still shoot without the baffle? It has to do SOMETHING, so I don't want to shoot if I'll damage anything/myself.
EDIT: I can still place the baffle where it's supposed to be, and it's held in pace by the bolt position when closed, which I would do if shooting.
Its been awhile since I had one apart, but there are two balls and a spring, no screw I'm aware of. The best I can explain it, the two balls keep each other in place.
If you hold the baffle upside down, the spring goes in first then the two balls, one on top of top of the other. If you look at the inside of the baffle you'll a hole. As you push the balls down to compress the spring the first one needs to go past the hole, the second allowed to go into the hole and protrude to the inside of the baffle. The first one won't allow the second to come out of the hole and the second won't allow the first one to pass it in the bore.
Now, don't hold me to this, but I believe the two balls are the same .125" used for the extractor. Like I said, its been a few years since I had one apart so I can't say for sure.
The rear baffle also incorporates the primary extraction cam. Although you could shoot the rifle without it you would have a tough time extracting a case.
Brownells have some baffles in stock. For the 14 you'll want this one to match the finish...http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts...prod12975.aspx
Bill
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
Ok--thanks for the heads-up!
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