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Thread: 6.5 140g smks and hornadys

  1. #1
    LongRange
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    6.5 140g smks and hornadys


    im shooting 139g lapuas in my 260 and thinking about switching over to the 140g smks or the hornady match...my question is are any of you guys shooting these two bullets and are you measuring your bullets barring surfaces(ogive to back of bullet)and how consistent are they? i was shooting 210smks in my 300 and recently switched to the 208g hornadys and they are very consistent,the 210 smks id end up with 3-5 different piles out of 500 with the 208g hornadys i get two piles out of 500. id like to hear how consistent each bullet is before i make the switch...i know they both shoot but im more concerned about consistency of barring surface.

  2. #2
    Basic Member Steelhead's Avatar
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    I shoot both and prefer the Hor 140 bthp's.
    I don't measure the bearing surface but it does seem easier to get loads with minimal vertical spread with them.

  3. #3
    LongRange
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    thanks steel ive had great luck with the 208s but the 210s shot great as well...i guess ill have to buy a 100 box of each and see for myself.

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    123 scenars all the way.

  5. #5
    LongRange
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    Quote Originally Posted by homefrontsniper View Post
    123 scenars all the way.
    I agree they are fantastic bullets but a little light for me. Several guys shoot the 123s at the varmint matches and do well until the wind comes up which is everyday here.

  6. #6
    Basic Member darkker's Avatar
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    Not sure what barring surface is, but I don't sort by bearing surface either. The 140gr SMK is a rather old design, if you are chasing BC, load the 142gr. SMK's. The 140 class from Hornady is closer to the 142; if you want to compare apples to apples.

    I use the same loads with the 142's, since the difference is in the nose and not the bearing surface.
    I'm a firm believer in the theory that if it bleeds, I can kill it.

  7. #7
    LongRange
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkker View Post
    Not sure what barring surface is, but I don't sort by bearing surface either. The 140gr SMK is a rather old design, if you are chasing BC, load the 142gr. SMK's. The 140 class from Hornady is closer to the 142; if you want to compare apples to apples.

    I use the same loads with the 142's, since the difference is in the nose and not the bearing surface.
    My bad on the spelling...Bearing surface is how much of the bullet contacts the riffling in you barrel...but im sure you know that as I misspelled bearing and you corrected that thanks. And no im not a BC chaser per say...while I try to stick to the higher BC bullets im more concerned about the consistency of a bullet,weight, bearing surface ect.

  8. #8
    Basic Member darkker's Avatar
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    I'm a firm believer in the theory that if it bleeds, I can kill it.

  9. #9
    LongRange
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    thanks darkker ive read that several times and while the bergers seem to have the highest BCs ive never had any luck with them in my 300wm so i doubt ill even try them in my 260. i think ill give the 142 SMKs a try...ive seen videos on you tube of guys shooting the 142s 1950yds...plus they are still pretty reasonably priced...ill pick a box up and see how they stack against the 139g lapuas.

  10. #10
    Basic Member Steelhead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LongRange View Post
    thanks darkker ive read that several times and while the bergers seem to have the highest BCs ive never had any luck with them in my 300wm so i doubt ill even try them in my 260. i think ill give the 142 SMKs a try...ive seen videos on you tube of guys shooting the 142s 1950yds...plus they are still pretty reasonably priced...ill pick a box up and see how they stack against the 139g lapuas.
    Post your results with the 142's.
    I've had decent results but nothing special with them, the 140bthp's shot so well that I really haven't fully experimented with the 142's.
    I'd like to hear your comparison against the 139's as I'd like to try them also.
    I've played with the Berger's, in my chamber to get them to shoot well they have to be single fed, between that, the price and that besides shooting a bit flatter, a bit better wind resistance the hornady's are shooting very well for me past 1000yds so I'm sticking with them.

  11. #11
    LongRange
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steelhead View Post
    Post your results with the 142's.
    I've had decent results but nothing special with them, the 140bthp's shot so well that I really haven't fully experimented with the 142's.
    I'd like to hear your comparison against the 139's as I'd like to try them also.
    I've played with the Berger's, in my chamber to get them to shoot well they have to be single fed, between that, the price and that besides shooting a bit flatter, a bit better wind resistance the hornady's are shooting very well for me past 1000yds so I'm sticking with them.
    will do...ill get a box of the hornadys too and test them as well since they shoot so well in my 300. ive got a match tomorrow so it will be next weekend before i start. and deff give the 139s a try they are awesome bullets and about the same price as the hornadys if you buy them by the thousand from powder valley $316 last time i bought them...41g RL-17 CCI 200 in preped lapua brass .015 off the lands shoots ragged holes at 325yds in my riffle...40g IMR 4350 CCI 200 touching the lands shoots the same just quite a bit slower.

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    Quote Originally Posted by LongRange View Post
    are you measuring your bullets barring surfaces(ogive to back of bullet)and how consistent are they?

    im more concerned about consistency of barring surface.
    When measuring bearing lengths you should measure from the ogive to the heel, not the ogive to the base otherwise any variations in the base will be included in the measurement.


    I'll select or make bushings .002" under the major bullet diameter to get as close as possible they're actual lengths.

    Bill
    Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.

  13. #13
    LongRange
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillPa View Post
    When measuring bearing lengths you should measure from the ogive to the heel, not the ogive to the base otherwise any variations in the base will be included in the measurement.


    I'll select or make bushings .002" under the major bullet diameter to get as close as possible they're actual lengths.

    Bill
    This is exactly how I measure mine but im just using the hornady compariter inserts nothing fancy but it works and does make a difference in grouping at long range.

  14. #14
    Team Savage jonbearman's Avatar
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    Bill I am assuming you bought 2 of the hornady tools to do it this way?
    Willing to give back for what the sport has done for me!

  15. #15
    Team Savage jonbearman's Avatar
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    A note on the 142 matchkings,they do better at distance than 100 yds. However my shilen likes 120 class bullets better unfortunately. I am running the older 120 mk's and the accuracy is outstanding. When I rebarrel I think I will go with 1in7.7 twist as I believe the heavys need more rpms to really stabilize. JMHO.
    Willing to give back for what the sport has done for me!

  16. #16
    LongRange
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonbearman View Post
    A note on the 142 matchkings,they do better at distance than 100 yds. However my shilen likes 120 class bullets better unfortunately. I am running the older 120 mk's and the accuracy is outstanding. When I rebarrel I think I will go with 1in7.7 twist as I believe the heavys need more rpms to really stabilize. JMHO.
    Im not sure im going to switch now...ive been playing with my 300 the last few monthx and must have forgoten how well the 139g lapas shoot in my 260.

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