I have a model 16 trophy hunter and my barrel nut is smooth and not like the other savage rifles I've seen. What's the difference? Do I have a cheaper model? It has a cheap plastic stock but I don't expect much more from the price point of the rifle. Getting used to the accutrigger is a bit weird for me as I'm used to rem 700 and weatherby rifles.
Welcome to the war, kid.
To answer your questions....
Smooth nut - New type, not cheap type.
Plastic stock - aka "Savage Flex - O - Matic" stock. Save your nickles and dimes and buy a nice Boyd's when you have a few bucks.
Accu-Trigger - Really cool once you get used to them. I have one on my 25-06 set for about 6 ounce pull. Just the way I like it.
What's a Remington?
Just a little info from yer 'ol Uncle Frank.
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
The only thing bad about the smooth barrel nut is it can make it a pain to get it off.
The LRP model I looked at last week had the smooth barrel nut also.
I like the accutrigger system.
The smooth nut is Savage's attempt at making the 110 series of rifles look better. It works as well as can be expected given that it is still a barrel nut. All my Savages get fitted with nutless barrels ala Remington 700.
I've always despised the Accutrigger. The little blade protruding from the face of the trigger is a lawyer inspired crutch and for me, spoils the entire trigger. The AT will function fine without that silly blade and eliminating it makes the AT almost palatable to me. I am in no way advocating taking off a factory installed safety device but just saying such a thing is possible.
One more thing. If you're saving for a replacement stock my advice is to save a bit longer and order a McMillan Hunter's EDGE. Buy once, cry once.
Last edited by Savage6x284; 09-04-2014 at 02:48 PM.
As others stated the smooth nut was introduced to try and make savages look better. In my opinion I could careless as long as my rifle shoots great, I am a hunter. Looks dont really matter to me. When it comes to the pistols I own, then looks matter haha. If you are a target shooter or simply someone who wants a "cool" looking rifle then there are other brands which have the "cool" factor like Sakos new A7 roughtechs.Originally Posted by *klutch*
Anyways back to your questions...having the older style barrel nut allows for easy removal of the barrel if you ever want to change the barrel which you cant do with other brand rifles. You can still remove your barrel nut by using a pipe wrench/monkey wrench or some vice grips or anything that can grab onto it...granted you will likely scratch it but thats ok because you can order a new one with the notches for like 20 bucks.
Before you go replacing the stock...see how it shoots with different ammo and how comfortable you are. If it shoots well...you may not need to replace it. If you want to replace it, remember whatever stock you get, you will likely need to have the stock bedded unless it has an aluminum bedding block already in it.
As for the accutrigger...they are actually one of the best out of the box triggers on the market. The little safety device is kind of annoying but no big deal especially if you are hunting in cold weather and use gloves...you dont really feel it with gloves on.
I hate that this misconception is so prevalent. I can take a Remington 700, buy twenty takeoff barrels for it and each and every one will screw on perfectly with safe and in tolerance headspacing. The rollstamps rarely line up correctly however.
How do I know this? I've done it a few dozen times.
In some ways the Savage barrel nut makes it MORE difficult rather than less. Unless you lock the barrel nut to the barrel you need headspace gages EVERY TIME you swap barrels. You don't with a 700 once you've established that it headspaces correctly during the initial fitting. Just screw it in until the shoulder makes contact, torque it on and you're golden.
The problem with the remington is the squaring of the action which is not necessary for savages with the floating bolt head. I have heard of others having headspacing issues after where they had to ream the bolt face etc. I know you can do remington barrel swaps but its not as easy in my opinion.
If you don't expect much from your Savage because of the price point then you're gonna get floored by what your rifle will do. hopefully you hand load. Find a good load and watch the bullet land exactly where the crosshairs were every time you pull the trigger.
A good wife and a steady job has ruined many a great hunter.
Another misconception.
If one lug on a Savage is .002" proud then the boltface will not be perpendicular to the bore axis no matter how much the bolthead floats. Same as any bolt rifle with lugs on the bolt and abutments in the receiver.
The floating bolthead is nothing more than a production economy. Nick Brewer didn't design the 110 to be any more or less accurate than other rifles. He designed it to be inexpensive to manufacture and safe for the user. He succeeded splendidly and the proof is nearly 60 years later the same basic design is still being used.
Last edited by Savage6x284; 09-04-2014 at 08:38 PM.
I agree but it is not a misconception...true he did it for production economy but it definitely aids in squaring an action. The proof is how almost ALL savage factory lugs have been notorious for not being uniform...especially older ones and yet the floating bolt face helps eleviate this issue. The after market lugs are much better designed than factory but replacing factory is not always necessary for accuracy. Again...it is not a misconception...savages are easier to work on...especially for the home hobbiest....but remington are known to be some of the best actions to build a full blown custom.
I CHOSE to build my full blown custom on a Savage 116 action. This despite having several LH 700's to choose from.
Savage's are easier to work on SOLELY because you can buy prefit barrels for them. That makes it easy to experiment.
All other aspects of the 110 design are no more or less user friendly than any other action.
With the plethora of aftermarket stuff made for the 700 one could argue that they and not the 110 are the easier action to modify.
Once again, my choice was the 116. Next time it'll be a Surgeon, BAT, or Bighorn action.
You are definitely correct when it comes to after market support and obviously have done a lot more customisation than anyone I know so maybe I am wrong. I have not worked on a remington 700 except to swap a trigger out. I just always heard, even from friends, that to change a remington barrel you WILL need a gun smith...
+1 ... and is now being adopted/cloned by custom actions builders, like http://www.bighornarms.com/action-info/actions/
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