Reply With Quotehahaha....I read that last sentence as "....dry nurse" LOLOriginally Posted by fgw_in_fla
Hopefully the appliances get moved soon....we'd all hate to think yer going without nourishment!
No, not yet. She still needs me to move the appliances.
We're selling the house here in SE section, moving to the other house in the NW section of the city. We're taking care of her mom until further notice. She's not doing well.
Moving puts us right across the street so I can play Frankie Nightingale, the Savage Shooting Day Nurse.
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
hahaha....I read that last sentence as "....dry nurse" LOL
Hopefully the appliances get moved soon....we'd all hate to think yer going without nourishment!
Recent WW brass has often been too soft. When Winchester stopped using the stainless plating on their primers, the primers seem a bit loose to me. During the current shortage of components, I bought a brick of Tula LR primers and they were much tighter than the old WWs I had been using. Because of that I am looking for some Tula SR primers for a batch of Federal .223 brass that I came up with. Maybe the tighter primers will suffice for loading plinking AR ammo.
You guys using Tula primers -
You having good consistent results with them?
I bought a box of Tula .380 for my wife's pistola about a year or two ago. It had 3 rounds that wouldn't fire even though the firing pin hit it hard.
I lost faith in the product to where I won't even buy the stuff for my AK's.
I've always had good consistent results with CCI products with function and fit on well used brass. Maybe next time I visit my 3rd favorite place on Earth (local reload supply store) I'll grab a box and have a go of it.
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
To huntr I as well had issues with 22-250 brass primer pockets if you'll do a search I'm sure you'll find it some where. It was all new Winchester brass went through the whole mess of brass prep with 500 cases and on the first trip to the range on a very mild charge of H4895 and 53 gr vmaxes I ended up blowing the extractor out of my new rifle. I got in touch with Winchester as I had only primed 1-200 cases and upon inserting the primer (primers at that time almost extinct) I tried wlr and CCI you could prime a new case and tap it lightly on the loading bench and watch the primer fall out! The 10 rounds I took to the range primed fine and still blew out. Called Winchester told them the situation and they sent me a bag to send them all the brass back and made it right with me
Financially for buying their product. Might call'em and see what they'll do for you. Misled or hornady makes good brass that's a little easy to swollow than Lapua brass. Happy
Shooting and good luck ps the H4895&53's work pretty well
couple of savages
I have loaded around 5000 of the Wolf/Tula 223 primers. They are definitely .0002-.0003 larger diameter (measured) than the average Rem, Win, Fed, CCI primers. To date I have had two misfires in AR's. These were in Fed cases after the first reload since removal of the primer crimp. Many of these primers were hard to seat during the first reload after removing the crimp. (However, the primer pockets in these cases expands fast enough that subsequent reloads have been no problem.) I have these two rounds and am trying to determine how to conduct the autopsy to learn why they misfired. Any suggestions? I did find one primer that the anvil fell out...I found the anvil too in the tray.
When the primer shortages forced many to try the Wolf/Tula primers there were a lot of reports of misfires with them. Apparently some users discovered that these primers should be more firmly seated than we are used to doing. Since this info became public on the net, the reports of misfire issues seem to have declined.
I currently have 5000 Wolf 223 primers in stock and I'm planning to buy another 5K soon.
Ya I certainly don't wanna damage my gun or more importantly myself! Is there a safe way to remove and discard the primers I already have in? They won't tap out. If I chamber them and set the primers (with no powder or bullet) off and then decap them would it hurt my gun in any way?
Last edited by yotehtr1; 09-03-2014 at 05:40 AM.
ive popped off a lot of primers...when brass was real hard to find id buy cheap factory ammo pull the bullets dump the powder and pop the primers off in my riffles then reload the brass..just run a patch or two after popping the primers and your good to go,
on the brass part as most have said...nosler lapua or norma...i shot a lot of fed and win brass and the fed would last about 3 to 5 reloads and the win about the same,the last batch of nosler lasted 17 reloads before i retired it and my current nosler is on its 13th reload...this is in a 300 win mag.
I've popped them out using the sizing / decapping die in my press. Adjust the decapping rod down a bit. Just make sure you apply pressure to the press handle s-l-o-o-o-w-l-y and wear some eye glasses.
After you punch out a few it goes easy. The scary part is over. Just be sure to press them out slow.
Or....
Why not just reload them & use 'em?
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
FYI:
from
http://forum.pafoa.org/ammunition-re...e-primers.html
Neither water nor WD-40 will "deactivate" primers, as you have found out, since neither causes the explosive ingredients in primers (lead styphnate and tetrazene) to decompose. Rather, both water and WD only cause a decrease in the sensitivity of the primer mix. Once they dry back out, the will return to nearly their original sensivity.
The most common way to "deactivate", rather than "desensitize", primer mix used by the manufacturers is exposure to weak nitric acid, which actually breaks down the explosives. Another method is to soak them in a solution of stannous (tin) chloride. I suspect neither of these are things you have lying about under the sink in your kitchen.
Firing is probably the best way, although I strongly agree that doing this indoors is a really bad idea from an exposure standpoint. Also bear in mind to keep the firearm pointed in a safe direction, just as if you have a live round in it. #1, you may mistakenly HAVE a live round. #2, there will be very hot gases and particles of burning aluminum projected out of the barrel.
PS - clean the gun thoroughly when you're done as residue which would normally be swept from the barrel will remain and it will be dirtier than if you had fired live rounds.
I do not recommend ever putting live primers in with "regular trash" - someone down the line may find out the hard way there were explosives mixed in. Plus the fact it is likely to be illegal.
newbie from gr, mi.
Thanks guys kinda what I was thinking just wanted to make sure it wouldn't damage my gun. Is there a good way to check a primer pocket before you actually prime it so you don't wind up wasting a bunch of primers on wore out brass?
Just press them out, I've done hundreds
Are they reusable after you've pressed them out?
For what it's worth to ya...
I saved a bunch of primers I pressed out & reused about 50 of them. All of them fired with no trouble however - I've been told if the little wafer of explosive in the primer is cracked or damaged when it's punched out, it may not fire.
I didn't have any trouble with the semi-used primers I tried but that's not to say you could have one not fire when you need it most.
Like when a 250 lb. hog is in your sites. Coming straight at you. With no intention of turning. Giggling at you while you pull the trigger and only hear *click*.
Just sayin'...
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
Lol well the pigs I shoot (whistle pigs) don't charge very often although I walked up on one in a hay field years ago and he definitely gave it a try! Attempt a hip shot with a bull barreled 22-250. Not an easy task! Haha but might have been a bad day if it hadn't went off for my redwings.... But ya that's kinda what I was getting at, if they are gonna be sketchy on being reusable I may as well just be extra careful and pop the primers in the gun. Shame there's no real way of telling if the pockets loose before you waste the primer though. I know they're inexpensive but I'm pretty cheap. Hate to waste them.
Reuse them for practice. When it counts and you absolutely positively have to get the shot off, use the good stuff.
Nobody's cheaper than me so I understand hating to throw away good / usable components.
And stay with the CCI or Tula primers and you won't have to worry about loose fitting primers. When you have new brass or lightly used brass, use the "whatever else you got on hand" primers.
And whatever you do, don't take any used brass from Deano. The pockets will be sooooo stretched out, you'll need shotgun primers with epoxy to keep them in.
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
Lol likes hot loads does he! Is there no big change in accuracy or point of impact switching back n forth between primers? Not like I wouldn't double check zero but curious how much different primers change where your bullets hitting.
No variations in point of impact noted when I used the semi-used primers.
I still have a few hundred in stash. I used them for general purpose ammo & playing around in the jungle. Just in case some of them decide not to fire. It would really suck rocks to have a few hundred pounds of wild pork in front of me and the round doesn't torch off.
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
Incase anybody else has this problem I ended up changing over to cci primers and that completely solved the problem. Where the winchester primers fit loose the cci's went in nice and firm. Thanks for the suggestions on that guys it worked out great!
+1!
Ya surprised me there was that much difference. The cci's seated very nice and tight.
Culled some 7mm rm cases today. Had to give this post a read. Am thinking of trying that little anvil-punch thingy. But the reviews at Midaway were not so good. Anyone besides Dean getting positive results? Seems like a shame to weed out cases that are otherwise just getting broke in.
I didnt have to try it the cci primers solved my problem. I saw that tool had alot of reviews claiming the durability was poor but im sure a guy that actually uses it could give you more info on that. Good concept if it works though.
DryBean has one for sale in the classifieds 20 bucks shipped,
Dean
RUMs are like woman in Stiletto heals, you know they are going to put you in the poor house, but that has never stopped anyone from pursuing them.
I will bet he is using Winchester primers and the cci or wolf/tula would be way better. I am on the fence on the hart tool. If it were me loading for the .22-250 I would seriously use Remington brass and be aware that you need to rework your loads up from the starting point. I use all brands but lapua and norma are best but just for average reloading to hunt I wouldn't waste the money on premium brass. Instead I would invest more time learning to avoid mistakes. Please post your actual load and if it is 38.0 grains of h380 with a 55 grain bullet,that can be an over pressure in any gun. yes I said it,the all time hodgdon load is too hot in some guns and a lot of guys jump right on it for speed. Now I would stick to book loads not something off the internet initially. When you get more experience then you will know if a given load is culpable. You ALWAYS WORK UP AND NEVER START HOT AS ALL CHAMBERS ARE UNIQUE.WHAT IS SAFE IN MY GUN WILL NOT BE SAFE IN YOUR GUN. Sorry but caps spell out safety ,safety,safety period. speed and high pressure can cause catastrophic injury or death. Enough of that,if you need help PM me.
Willing to give back for what the sport has done for me!
Posting Permissions
Bookmarks