Reply With QuoteIf you plan on doing any walking with it and not firing a lot of rounds at once I'd go for a magnum sporter type barrel. It's in between the sporter and light varmint. Then just about any stock out there should work.
Hey everyone. I am knew to this forum, but not really new to shooting. I have been shooting for the last 5 years (this includes pistols and rifles, target for fun but not competition, and hunting). I am actually a member on the Long Range Hunting forum. Someone over there recommended me to come here with questions, so here I am. As my title explains I am contemplating doing a semi custom build on a savagae action. My brother gave me his older savage 110 7mm rem mag. It has some wear on the bluing (no rust though), but overall id say its good to go and actually shoots rather well as is. As stated it is an older 110 with blind magazine (staggered feed) and side bolt release with no accutrigger. My plan is to build a semi-custom 300 win mag hunting rig using an after market barrel and stock. My distances will typically be under 400 yards on deer, elk, bear and possibly moose in the distant future)... but would be nice to know I could stretch it well past that if I want to. Of course I would like to have as accurate as possible rifle with-in my budget but anything around .5-.75MOA with my hand loads would be great. I have been eye-balling a pac nor barrel with a #6 contour (this would probably fall into a heavy varmint type barrel) but It has proven rather difficult locating a stock that would fit this thick of a barrel with out modification. Manners and mcmillan both make a stock that would fit but are crazy expensive. So my questions are as follows, what are your suggestions on barrels both brand and shape. Do I really need a heavy varmint/bull barrel contour so should I just get a sporter type barrel which will then allow me to get into a cheaper bell and carlson stock? What stock shape should I be looking into? Also, whatever stock you recommend...it would have to be good to go from the factory as I do not feel comfortable modifying or bedding a stock and unfortunately there really are not any gunsmiths where I live. My hunting is mostly in the seated positions off shooting sticks or shooting rails, but may occasionally shoot from prone on extreme shots past 300-400 yards. I do own a very light mountain rifle which I pack for still hunting or long hiking trips so this was the reason for going towards a more heavier barrel rig.
I have researched a lot on the tools I will need so I dont think I need anymore advice from that perspective and I feel comfortable doing the headspacing. As for budget, I plan on doing this build in steps. Buying either the stock or barrel first, then saving for the next step...etc. I was hoping to keep stock prices below 400$ but If I need to spend more to eliminate having to bed or doing and modifications on my own then I will certainly consider it. I was also trying to keep the barrel below 400 as well and then last buying a timney trigger or something like that unless I can tune the current trigger. Again, I am open to all advice. Thank you!
If you plan on doing any walking with it and not firing a lot of rounds at once I'd go for a magnum sporter type barrel. It's in between the sporter and light varmint. Then just about any stock out there should work.
"An armed society is a polite society"
"...shall not be infringed" What's the confusion?
what would be a "lot" of rounds and then also how would I know if it is more a magnum sporter...any suggestions on barrel manufacturer? For instance on pac nor's website they state number contours...for instance a #6 will be thicker than a #5 and so on until you get down to #1 be ultra thin. I believe barrel thickness for #6 starts at .95inches and then tapers to .75 and for the #1 starts at .675 and tapers to .55. Obviously #2-#5 contours fall inbetween there. Almost sounds like the pac nor #3 contour would be a magnum sporter type?Originally Posted by 243LPR
Last edited by Bigeclipse; 08-19-2014 at 10:08 AM.
That barrel should fit into a savage varmint barrel inlet without modification...if the shank is cut back far enough. The B&C sporter stocks require opening the barrel channel slightly for a Savage heavy sporter barrel. That means you're stuck with the standard sporter, though I wouldn't expect a stock to not need some modification and bedding is always a good idea. Savage factory barrels are all straight taper and start to taper directly in front of the barrel nut, the Savage heavy sporter falls between a Pac-Nor #4 and #5 as far as muzzle diameter but they aren't contoured the same. It's really not a problem to ship a rifle to have the work done and that seems like it may be best for you.
Will the #3 contour fit with out modification? If so, will that be good enough to get me a 5 shot group with out too much over heating throwing flyers? The whole point of this project was a "semi-budget friendly" rifle that shot well. lets say 2-400 for a stock, 400 for barrel, 100 for trigger, and then now 50 for ffl shipping and then maybe 100 for modifcations to stock puts me $950 or more...for $100 more you can get a savage 110 LRH brand new...
Am I missing something....should I reconsider even doing the build? Maybe i expected it being cheaper haha
Just FYI a couple of projects I did.
First 300 win mag, doner .270 rifle $300, added ER Shaw heavy barrel kit from Brownells $200, LRV Laminate stock from Stockys $235, Worked on stock trigger to break at 3 pounds. First workup on hand loads .75 moa.
Second 7mm08, .270 doner $275, added 7mm08 Criterion stainless match barrel from Northland Shooters supply $300, Choate Stock $200, also worked on trigger to break at 3 pounds, hand loads best group at .375 moa.
GLC
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