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Thread: First Savage Build

  1. #1
    GuideGun
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    First Savage Build


    Hello all, first time posting here. I have a few questions about building on the Savage action. I'm looking to buy a Savage 10 .243 with accutrigger to build on. Guy wants $325 for it, and that seems pretty decent. I want to build a .223 AI on it though. Now, the only thing I should have to switch out is the bolt head for this action to work with the .223 AI correct? Obviously I'd need a new barrel, but McGowen offers a .223 AI prefit for the Savage...which is the road I'm looking at going down.

    I'm just not sure about compatibility issues with this action and the cartridge I want to build on. What is the mag box length on the Model 10? Is this a small or large shank action?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    and maybe a short action front bolt baffle to limit your bolt throw length some. Also, consider a SSS trued Barrel Nut and Heavy Duty Trued/Machined Lug. They are precisely machined and just better than the stamped factory ones. Not worth replacing unless you are already removing the barrel, but for sure if you are getting a new one. Mag about 2.84 inches but I have never paid too much attention to that. I could be wrong, too. Sounds like a good deal, BTW.

  3. #3
    Basic Member Hotolds442's Avatar
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    Since you're limiting bolt travel with the front baffle, you'll need the 223 length magazine box. Otherwise your cartridge heads will stack up behind the travel limit of the bolt and you won't be able to feed reliably.
    Originally Posted by keeki
    Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways

  4. #4
    GuideGun
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    Well couldn't I just swap bolt heads and leave the baffle and mag box alone, that way I could seat the heavy .224" bullets out far. I want to run a AICS magazine set up anyway.

  5. #5
    Basic Member Hotolds442's Avatar
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    If you can get it to feed, yes. You will have to do some tweaking of your mag box for sure.
    Originally Posted by keeki
    Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways

  6. #6
    gotcha
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    Foxx, Please give this grumpy old fxxt a few pointers............ What is the advantage of using a precision machined lug and barrel nut on an action face that hasn't been trued? Do you just cross your fingers and hope for the best? I've used both myself and in hind sight wondered if it really made sense. There's no doubt in my mind that the Savage lugs can be improved upon ( I've measured more than a few) but it seems the lug & nut are only part of the equation?? Your input graciously appreciated.

  7. #7
    sbarcewski
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    Does anyone have a picture of the SA front bolt baffle on a LA bolt. I am curious myself now about this?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by gotcha View Post
    Foxx, Please give this grumpy old fxxt a few pointers............ What is the advantage of using a precision machined lug and barrel nut on an action face that hasn't been trued? Do you just cross your fingers and hope for the best? I've used both myself and in hind sight wondered if it really made sense. There's no doubt in my mind that the Savage lugs can be improved upon ( I've measured more than a few) but it seems the lug & nut are only part of the equation?? Your input graciously appreciated.
    You kinda caught me perpetuating hear-say wisdom from the 'net, Gotcha. I trust it matters because, as you say, the stamped factory lug is so incredibly sloppy. I must say, the face of the action appears to be true as it comes from the factory, and the lug does not. Perhaps it just doesn't matter. I know I have a factory 223 Varmint, 25-06 and Hog Hunter 308 that all shoot 1/3 inch or better at 100 and I have never removed either from their actions, though I have restocked, pillared and bedded them. Judging from the way they shoot, it is hard to say they need any thing different. It does seem to me, however, that if the lug is not trued the recoil will eventually cause it to slam against the bedding at an angle and therefore, eventually, cause the whole action to shift under recoil. If, on the other hand, it is perfectly flat and true, it will not want to slide up/down or to one side or the other.

    I also have a few aftermarket barrels and know that I feel a lot better putting trued lugs and nuts on them. Can't imagine putting a factory lug behind a $300 barrel. :)

    That's all I got. :) Maybe someone who makes 'em (Fred???) can share HIS rationale. :)

  9. #9
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    GuideGun, to better answer your question about mag length for .223: Looks like the 223 mag length is 2.363. I think .284 was what I got from the .243 mag, and it was not precise.

  10. #10
    Basic Member rjtfroggy's Avatar
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    It is already a short action so why the baffle change? Change the bolt head get the right mag ( stagger feed or center feed ) and have at it. And no the lug does not have to be changed, I do it but that is a personal preference. Also it should be small shank.
    FROGGY
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  11. #11
    cranebird
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    Jump on the go/no go gages when you see them available. I was able to find a go gage at Midway but not a no go gage. I am not sure you need a no go gage as the .223 will be a crush fit from the go gage, I am pretty snug to the go gage and everything seems fine...Reamer rentals has a set to rent if you don't want your own.

    http://www.reamerrentals.com/Product...tCode=223Ack.g

  12. #12
    GuideGun
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    I'm starting to think about a Pac-Nor instead of the McGowen.

    Also, is the PTG replacement bolt worth the money?

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