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Thread: HELP Please - Bolt Issue

  1. #1
    Cat 64
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    HELP Please - Bolt Issue


    I went to the range today and after a few rounds I realized in order to close my bolt all of a sudden requires increasingly more effort. I did not have this issue before. Shot maybe 800 rounds with this Savage Target Action single shot RBLP. I tried cycling the spent cases and could not even close the bolt on those. This are brand new Lapua cases at the first firing. Came home and put in the receiver my Go Gage I used recently to mount/headspace the new barrel on this gun (6.5x47 Lapua). I can't even close the bolt. When I left for the range I tried a few loaded cartridges and the bolt closed fine. What is more ironic is that I have an exact replica of this action waiting to be mounted on a new build. I tried the bolt assembly from this other action and it works just fine. Please help. What must I do to fix this problem.

    Thank you,

  2. #2
    Basic Member bootsmcguire's Avatar
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    DO NOT FIRE YOUR RIFLE WITH A DIFFERENT BOLT OR BOLT HEAD without resetting your headspace. Bolts and bolt heads are different and will change headspace. Not saying you did that, but just throwing that out there for safeties sake.

    1st I would check the bolt over real well and make sure there are no broken or binding parts. This LINK may be of help to you in that regard.

    2nd I would check and make sure your barrel and barrel nut are tight and not allowing the barrel to move which would allow your headspace to change.

    3rd If all that checks out, I would check the front of the action for debris on the lugs.

    4th See if you have any build up in the chamber which may be causing some intermittent binding.

    That's just the simple stuff to check out before going to crazy.
    204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM

  3. #3
    Cat 64
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    I did not fire the rifle with the other bolt. I took apart the bolt and didn't see any parts damaged or anything else. Barrel nut is tight and there is no debris. I was mentioning that I tried the bolt from the other action and that one works well I am thinking that since that bolt works it is something with the bolt and not the gun. The only part I did not remove to check is the ejector pin. It is hard right on the onset of the the motion of engaging the bolt.

  4. #4
    Cat 64
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    When I finished assembling the new barrel I made a witness mark on the barrel and nut. They are aligned perfectly. The barrel did not move.

  5. #5
    Basic Member bootsmcguire's Avatar
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    Hmmm. This is a conundrum.

    I hope I didn't offend you, I only put that out there as a general warning. I would hate for one of the many noobs out there to think that all bolts are equal and pull the old switcheroo without knowing. Since these posts can stay up for years, it just seems like a good idea to continually throw out the warnings.

    So just to clarify the bolt works fine until you put either the go-gauge or a spent brass into the chamber?

    If the go-gauge doesn't fit, and you set the barrel to the go-gauge, then something has moved or is obstructing the distance between the bolt face and the datum point inside the chamber assuming the bolt cycles fine with nothing in the chamber that is.
    204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM

  6. #6
    Cat 64
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    Thanks Boots,

    Suddenly when cycling a cartridge I had to use added strenghth. The bolt cycles fine with nothing in but then when I put in a spent case or the go gage it only closes with extra "force". I guess I am intrigues by the fact the other bolt closes so easily.

  7. #7
    Cat 64
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    Can anything be wrong at the ejector pin level?

  8. #8
    Basic Member bootsmcguire's Avatar
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    Use a screw driver and depress the ejector down towards the bolt face. If it goes flush or below then that isn't it.

    The other bolt really doesn't tell you much other than the lugs and engagement surfaces are ok. The other bolt may give you more headspace if it is just a few thousandths deeper on the face of the bolt so that's not really much help to you.
    204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM

  9. #9
    Cat 64
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    Ok. I appreciate it. The screw driver test passed. Tomorrow morning I will take it apart and re head space it. I will report my findings. Thank you.

  10. #10
    Basic Member Dennis's Avatar
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    Might be an ejector pin problem, a bolt head problem-something as simple as a small piece of brass stuck on the head, a headspace issue, dirty chamber especially around the shoulder area, or the shoulders on the new brass are a few thousandths longer. I have run into this with a few lots, but usually after the first shot it cycles fine.

    Also, measure the necks on your new brass (loaded) and compare it to a loaded case from the old lot. A thousandths or two will make a difference and stop the case from chambering. This is a long shot, but if a match reamer was used to chamber the barrel, it could and will make a difference. I have seen it happen to Don Geraci.

    After the first firing on the brass, it's fire-formed and should cycle fine. I usually FL size new brass, then bump the shoulders .002 with every loading.

    I have 4 Savage Target Actions and have never experienced this problem, so I really don't think it's the Action. If the rear Action mounting bolt is tighter than the front two, this will definitely put a bind on the action and cause problems. I personally have experienced this. The tang area is free floating and the rear screw will bind it if overtightend. I checked a persons rifle on the range and could immediately see something was wrong. I loosened the rear screw, in fact took it out, and it worked perfectly. I check the torque on all screws, retightened them, and made sure the rear was 10" lbs less.

    Are there any odd marks on the shoulders of your fired brass? I think I would check this area first. Then it's a process of elimination.

    Sorry for the long rant, just let us know what you find.

    Dennis

  11. #11
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    Make sure it's clean before you go through breaking it down. Double check and make sure your brass is the correct length.

  12. #12
    Cat 64
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    Ok. Good morning guys. I re-head-spaced the action and I am ready for a trip to the range this afternoon after I re measure for seating depth and load some ammo. The witness marks on the nut and barrel didn't match. However, I think I made an error when I tightened the nut. I set my torque wrench for 43 foot pounds but I FORGOT TO TIGHTEN THE SCREW ON THE BOTTOM WHO SECURES THE SETTING. I believe I didn't torque enough since when I took down the barrel to reset the headspace it came out rather easy. So , like many of you suggested the barrel moved on me with the shots.

  13. #13
    Basic Member SlimySquirrel's Avatar
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    Another excellent example of why I love this site!

    Report is of course useless with some gun porn...

  14. #14
    Basic Member bootsmcguire's Avatar
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    Hope this works out and will be watching for a report.

    I knew something had to have moved or taken up some of that space.
    204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM

  15. #15
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    Actually it seems the problem was elsewhere. When I wrote the updated report it was before I mouted back on the bolt head, the spring, the detent ball and the extractor. After I installed them I run into the same problem as before. Then I remembered that I had previously changed the original detent ball with a ball with slightly larger diameter. I did so because ejecting my 6mm BR cases (the caliber I run before in this rifle) was not working great. Swapping the balls fixed the problem then but it seems it created a problem with the 6.5x47 Lapua cases. After I swapped back to the original ball the cases are cycling just fine.

  16. #16
    Basic Member bootsmcguire's Avatar
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    Yes that very well can make it a bit stiffer, but is often for the better. Kinda surprising that was the culprit, but glad you have it figured out.
    204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM

  17. #17
    Cat 64
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    Quote Originally Posted by bootsmcguire View Post
    Yes that very well can make it a bit stiffer, but is often for the better. Kinda surprising that was the culprit, but glad you have it figured out.
    Me too. I worked by elimination. Took apart both bolts and compared them then I assembled the culprit and as I said by elimination I got to the bottom of it. I will let you know how it does at the range. However the dry cycling functions with no problems now unlike before. Thanks for the input.

  18. #18
    Basic Member bootsmcguire's Avatar
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    Always glad to help when I can, often times I learn more from you guys then you learn from me.

    Problem solving and trouble shooting has always been my strength. All my buddies have me come look at their cars and guns when they break down cuz I always seem to find the issue and save them some coin over letting the mechanic or GS do the trouble shooting. I look at it that every time I help is a chance I can learn something new.
    204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM

  19. #19
    Cat 64
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    Went to the range last night and shot 30 times throughthe newly re-headspaced barrel. The problem appears to be fixed. Thanks for allthe input.

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