Black around case necks on my gun, but not on others?

[cranebird]

in annealing the case necks. Do you fill the brass cartridges with water for annealing the necks or leave them empty and just submerge the brass in water below the neck line ?

[cranebird]

What sort of lazy Susan do you use to rotate the brass to anneal it ? Maybe should look for a mini potters wheel with a rheostat speed control or something along that line or am I making it more difficult than it should be ?

[fgw_in_fla]

How To Anneal - A Pictorial...

Get these:

On the end of the nut driver, put this:

Use it to heat the brass until you see a pale bluish color on the neck - like this:

Quench:

Done. Let dry, clean & size, reload and shoot. Repeat as needed:


Apply the heat (yellow part of flame right where the blue point is) to the shoulder of the brass. Do not get it any hotter than a bluish color. Once it starts getting red the brass will start to break down and it'll lose its springiness. If you see the case neck is shiny, it means the zinc is trying to escape. Too hot. Bluish / purple is plenty of heat.

[drybean]

Now I know my Problem, needed 270 cups of coffee

[fgw_in_fla]

Ya know Jim, I find the Folgers coffee can provides much more consistent neck tension as opposed to Maxwell House can. The nervous hand shaking from excess caffeine provides a more even annealing, too.

[cranebird]

Thank you for taking the time to post the info Frank. I was thinking that you wanted to submerge the case in water while annealing so there was no chance of the rest of the case softening while annealing the shoulder and neck. I'll go ahead and put that cut down canned ham tin on the shelf next to my nylon bristled cleaning brush.....Thinking I need to lay off the coffee as well. Batdorf & Bronson makes a Dancing goat coffee...Makes me more nervous than the bullet chosen to be loaded to scope eye's data.......

[fgw_in_fla]

There is a method of annealing where the brass is standing in a pan with a little water. After heating, the case is knocked over for a quench. The purpose of the water is so the case head doesn't get too hot and softened too much. It works if you can keep the cases from getting knocked over with the torch.
There's a few methods of annealing without a fancy gadget. The method I displayed I have been using for a few years. I neck size for 3 firings then anneal and full size. My main goal is to get as much life from the brass as possible.
Just remember to not overheat. If you see the neck is getting "silvery" or sometimes black - it's too hot. Some guys will say the overheated brass is no good. I have over heated cases and used them anyway. You'll find it affects neck tension and you have to shoot and full size it several times to get the brass to tighten up.


"more nervous than the bullet chosen to be loaded to scope eye's data"????
Now that was funny.

[scope eye]

Hey Frank, what is that case holder you got there.

Dean

Wow you guys are starting on me this early.

[fgw_in_fla]

It's the lock stud from a Lee case trimmer:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/476...ProductFinding

Just need the screw on collar for the correct sized case - Lee#2 I think.

PS - I use one in my battery drill to spin the brass for trimming and cleaning.

[fgw_in_fla]

One more thing about annealing.
Punch the primer out before starting. It'll help the water to dump out after quench.

[scope eye]

One more thing about annealing.
Punch the primer out before starting. It'll help the water to dump out after quench.

Primers don't need to be punched out, they fall out on there own, SILLY

NAED
that's written in code

[fgw_in_fla]

Alright....

Primers should be removed prior to annealing UNLESS they fall out before hand.

My mistake. Its early and I forgot you were here already.

[fgw_in_fla]

Deano-
You need one of these brass holder thingies?
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/476...ProductFinding
I have an extra I can send with my next donation to Bullets & Brass for Buddies if you need.
I can add a collar for a .473" case, too. I don't have any for magnum (I don't think) but may have an extra for 9mm.

[yobuck]

There is a product called Tempilac that removes the guesswork as to how much heat needs to be applied.
After time, a trained eye as for the right color will work also. Not all systems require dunking in water.
Bill reccomended a system to me that works very well, is very fast, reasonably priced and doesent require dunking.
It uses 2 torches. Anneal rite , they have a website.

[cranebird]

Hey Frank, what is that case holder you got there.

Dean

Wow you guys are starting on me this early.

I also have an extra cutter & lock stud and I would be glad to send it to you since I started in on you so early this morning. I could have said that I was sweating bullets but it doesn't have the same effect......

[fgw_in_fla]

Don't sweat it. He enjoys the attention.

[cranebird]

I'll bite the bullet and ask why was it important to boast the New 1/4" shank on the package ?

[GaryB]

I'll bite the bullet and ask why was it important to boast the New 1/4" shank on the package ?

I don't know the answer to your riddle, but do yourself a favor and buy the cutter with the big ball handle.

[cranebird]

I don't know the answer to your riddle, but do yourself a favor and buy the cutter with the big ball handle.

I think the "new 1/4" shank" is in code ?

I've been meaning to ask scope eye what glue he uses on his primers ? I have a wood ball from a craft shop and am looking to drill and glue it onto the cutter head. I try to cut the inflated cost of things when I can.

[cranebird]

OK,I went out and poked a hole in the craft ball.


This is what it 'll look like only glued in when I get the glue recommendation from Scope eye. Actually I whacked too big of a hole and need my square from work to align the piece straight in the ball when gluing it up.

[fgw_in_fla]

I used a little Elmers when I made mine.
And it was closest to the edge of the shelf when I looked for some glue in my collection.
Worked out OK and I was able to remove the cutter when it dulled and needed to be replaced.
As far as keeping it straight, the case length gage part will keep it straight. Keeping even pressure with a crooked gage may be a different story if it's pitched on an angle.



PS - set it deeper in the wood. The closer your hand is to the case, the easier it it'll be to control pressure on the cutter.

[fgw_in_fla]

I'll bite the bullet and ask why was it important to boast the New 1/4" shank on the package ?

I just looked at all 14 lock studs I have, some were bought 5 - 6 years ago. All of them are 1/4".
I have no answer to your question. Now its up to you to research it and tell us why or we'll all be losing sleep over this.
Thanks for nuthin'...

[acemisser]

I had the same isssue with my 6BR..So I anealed the brass and when I went
to the range with my so called pet load,the accuracy had went to hell.
Would this be due to the annealing of the brass.This is lapua brass
and has been shot 13 times.I have had some shooters tell me they never
anneal.Is there something to this or just a fluk thing ?

[fgw_in_fla]

I'm not familiar with using Lapua brass.
I am familiar with over heating the brass when annealing and I also had accuracy drop off on a few rounds that I cooked. Probably less springiness to the case neck which would affect neck tension.
I recall the "brass in question" - when I pressed in the bullet it went in reeeeeeaallll easy. One of those mistakes I try not to repeat too often.

[acemisser]

I'm not familiar with using Lapua brass.
I am familiar with over heating the brass when annealing and I also had accuracy drop off on a few rounds that I cooked. Probably less springiness to the case neck which would affect neck tension.
I recall the "brass in question" - when I pressed in the bullet it went in reeeeeeaallll easy. One of those mistakes I try not to repeat too often.

I did not think the bullets seated any different in these cases.Only thing to do is try some
that had not been annealed yet and see what happens.Thanks Frank..