Reply With QuoteMember classifieds there is an awesome 14 stock a member re-worked for a varmit profile. Worth the membership just for the one item.
I have an American Classic Model 14 that I would like to swap the factory sporter barrel for a varmint barrel. I'm really fond of the warm look that wood and blued steel manage, and have something like the old USMC M40s in mind. I've been trying to find a walnut stock that I can use for the varmint barrel but without success. I'd be willing to inlet the rifle's current stock, but I suspect that I'd be removing to much wood and would be left with a goofy looking stock. Also, I doubt that sanding the black plastic tip will work out well. Has anyone tried this, and if so do you have pictures and/or advice? Better yet, does anyone know of a walnut stock, MC would be best, that can manage a heavier barrel?
Member classifieds there is an awesome 14 stock a member re-worked for a varmit profile. Worth the membership just for the one item.
I'm pretty sure I've seen pictures of heavy barrel rifles on the Boyds Prairie Hunter stocks. You may look at those.
I did install a varmet barrel on a 110 and sanded the barrel channel to accept the new barrel. It looks normal but it wasn't an American Classic stock. The only downside would be you can never go back to a sportier barrel, then it would look goofy.
I've been holding out on re-upping my membership. You sold me.Originally Posted by sixonetonoffun
I was at the LGS this afternoon looking at the Trophy Hunter and admiring the stock. Seems very similar to the American Classic in shape, though without the black plastic tip, I've read they're not walnut. I've found Numrich to carry the Model 14 with the Monte Carlo stock, for a fair price. But again, I'm concerned about the appearance after hogging out so much wood and the affect of sanding plastic. I'd love to see a pic of your work.
Last edited by Willy Pete; 06-23-2014 at 11:23 PM.
Here you are.
That really did come out nicely.
As you can see from the Savage 14 AC stock I have in the classified's, you can open up the barrel channel to accept a light varmint to varmint contour barrel. Savage uses a transparent base stain under the top coat to make the walnut finish consistent on each factory stock. My experience is once you sand through this finish to the bare wood, it is impossible to rematch the factory finish. I had to strip off the finish on the whole stock and refinish again from bare wood. I used the dirty sanding method and Tru-Oil gunstock finish. A Tru-Oil finish is easier to repair if you scratch or ding up the stock in the field. Raise dents with a hot iron and wet rag and sand lightly. Then touch up with several coats of Tru-Oil. Be careful and don't get paint stripper on the plastic tip, because it will melt. Just sand to fit. I use Danish tung oil to waterproof the checkering. You don't want to fill the checkering with finish.
Thanks for the advice and help Gents.
I am in the process of doing almost the exact same thing...I have a Savage 110FP .308 barrel that I am cutting down to 17.5" and threading 5/8 x 24 tpi. I was stumbling on the stock...went to GUN PARTS CORP -NUMRICH and bought a semi finished inletted walnut stock for a LA...they have them for LA/SA LEFT AND RIGHT for $29 + $8.50 shipping...NICE STOCK... Any way I took the 24"heavy barrel and applied double sided carpet tape along its length...then a 20" strip of 60 grit 1" wide..I then used it to open up the barrel channel...working pretty good so far...also removing the cheek pad...not the raised comb...hoping I get a product that o can oil vs paint as o love wood and this nice walnut...also sending it to CDI for inletting and DBM...
Thanks CAPTBEACH, you made up my mind for me. $33.15 total with the promo code:2756. I'm hoping the project will keep me from buying more guns for awhile. The longer the project, the less I'll buy. Right?
Yes wood is good.
I've done one with a light varmint barrel much like jpdown has described. I stripped the stock, sanded out the barrel channel to fit on each side, and then refinished the stock with a combination of tru oil and armor all. I think you would be just fine with going full varmint weight as long as you don't plan on going back to a sporter.
YES...wood is good...not too shabby for a $29 stock...
A few minutes on the belt sander and the awful cheek pad is gone forever...few more minutes, about an hour total and its is 98% gone and blended...
Right hand LA Walnut and some nice walnut too at that...
Anyone know what DBM or inletting this is for?
You can just make out the barest hint of the cheek pad...the dark spot is not a high or low spot its in the wood grain, the gentle curve is the faint out line I'll work on tomorrow...
Looks great, is that what what the 308 bbl is going in
need updates
Yup...I'm keeping your barrel for this one...Son In law will have to wait LOL...
Build will probably turn out to be along these lines...I'm looking to build an M40ish stocked, no nonsense deer rifle, short and handy, but capable of making a long shot across a bean field, a trip out west or a trip to New Zealand
bold indicates I have these parts in hand
Flat Back 110 LA I want to be able to load some 308 heavies a little long into the lands, might use a AICS 300WM/30-06 mag and bend/tune the feed lips
Large handle bolt knob
17.5" heavy Barrel (DryBeans 24" cut and threaded)
EGW one piece base with Burris X-Treme low rings
Sav 1 trigger tuned to able 2 lbs
SS Recoil Lug
CDI DBM running a 5 round mag
I haven't settled on a scope yet but I have 3 SWFA's right now and am really happy with them but want variable power to hunt with so it might be a Weaver Tactical 4 x 20 x 50
Savage Walnut LA Stock
Flush cups (3) so I can run one of my AR slings
Action and recoil lug glass bedded
Stock will be oil finshed
Last edited by CAPTBEACH; 06-26-2014 at 12:17 AM.
When I started sanding on the stock I started getting excited...its a really nice piece on wood...glad I bought it
Yes. The wood is good. Very good.
I have not decided yet on oil finish but I've got a trick up my sleeve that will stain that walnut gun metal grey and once oiled will let the grain and figuring shine...be a nice change of pace from reds and Brown's and would really compliment the flat black finish the metals getting...just vinegar and steel wool...
Hey CAPT, keep me/us posted. Your project sounds remarkably similar to mine, less the LA and sub 18" barrel. I'm hoping the sanding will take some time so I can work up the strength to stretch my wallet wide enough to shake out an SWFA SS 5-20 or Razor.
Hey can you post a pic of that stock for me...I need a reference point for the work I'm doing to mine...a coouple of shots would be nice, of the cheeck piece, comb ext...
I'll try to snap some this afternoon. I committed a world of sanding to it before I realized that it must be a long action. It won't fit my short action at all.
If they sent you a LA..contact them...I bet they send you a short free...also...measure the action screw spacing...it should be a smidge over 5" for a LA...4.4"or 4.27 for a short...
If you want something more specific, pm me.
In this picture the recoil lug is in the recoil lug channel, but you can clearly see that the bolt handle does not line up with its channel. Also, the inletting for the barrel nut is off.
Here you can see how far off center the recoil lug channel is. Additionally, I think it is way too far forward.
The bolt hole spacing is about 4.40" as should be. It is otherwise a beautiful piece of wood and would have made a terrific stock.
Posting Permissions
Bookmarks