Reply With QuoteBedding, free-floating, pressure points...
All methods to influence our control barrel harmonics. Whether or not it is advantageous is up to you and your reloading.
I've seen where some people include the first few inches of barrel in their bedding area. Any thoughts on whether this would be advantageous on a 11VT in a Boyd's Tacticool? (308 24" bull barrel).
Thanks!
Bedding, free-floating, pressure points...
All methods to influence our control barrel harmonics. Whether or not it is advantageous is up to you and your reloading.
I'm a firm believer in the theory that if it bleeds, I can kill it.
That makes sense based off of what I've researched. I think I'll bed the barrel nut and let the rest float.
I had one of my stocks bedded including the front of the barrel nut a little (under the barrel). I didn't see much advantage in doing this, and only did it once.
Dennis
I just finished my third build and have just pillar bedded all of them. They shoot so darn good I see no reason to use any glass bedding.
I have done many bedding jobs, and never have gone beyond recoil lug, I also do not use tape on my recoil lug, talk about tight fit, the way I see it , if gluing on in is the best you can do, then I want to be as tight, but still be able to get it out, after bedding you will have to beat it on the arm of a soft sofa, use plenty of release agent.
Naw.....Originally Posted by frank1947
Youse needs one of these here "Yea Auld Action Ripper Outers".
No bang'n, wiggle'n or cuss'n to get one apart. Ita pull'm out slicker than head cold snot!
Billl
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
Bill, do you need my address? I was hopin' you would send me one!
foxx.....when you get one from bill, make me one, you have my addy already...laffin! that is a nifty lil tool
nice use of the C-Clamp... fortunately I didn't have any issues getting mine out (lots of release agent). I tried bedding under the nut but apparently didn't get enough compound in there. Fortunately the rest of the bedding turned out fine so I should be good.
Bill, what is the "business" end of that "C" clamp ridding on? Just Askin ;-))...Thanks-Jim
Inside the receiver ring. The block rests on the edges of the stock and when the clamp is snugged it pulls up on the action. Typically when the clamp is snugged and with an upward smack with your hand on the bottom of the barrel pops the action loose.
Bill
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
Its not the amount of release used, its the quality of it's application. Why using Kiwi neutral shoe polish or Johnson's paste wax are preferred. When they haze over its easy to see any spots missed. Also in the future use an acid brush to work the release in the areas you can't reach with a rag and a fat finger, the gap between the lug -action and the grooves in the nut for instance.
Of course you could make one of these and forget the grooves altogether!
Bill
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
Very nice, Bill. How do you tighten it? Strap wrench? Bet it looks sharp installed.
I use channel lock pliers with piece of rubber on the jaws. I don't tighten it any more than the nuts.
Bill
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
That's a great idea. Very commonsensical, yet I'd have probably never thought of that. That's what I love about this forum.
Neither did I, its another one of those gadgets a few old gunwreakers like my uncle used. I'm guess'n I first saw one in the mid '60s.
Bill
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
Bill, again you have demonstrated that you are "da man"! ;-))
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