Reply With QuoteI would go with the XLR evolution extreme chassis which only weighs 4 lbs... but, it's made out of billet aluminum...
The ProHunter stock though looks really good...
I am think of doing a lightweight build for a friend of mine's father. I am starting with a Stevens 200 action and I think I am going to get a 21" Criterion barrel chambered in 7mm-08 with a sporter profile. I have most everything worked out but the stock. I want a wooden stock but I also want to keep weight down. Any recommendations?
I would go with the XLR evolution extreme chassis which only weighs 4 lbs... but, it's made out of billet aluminum...
The ProHunter stock though looks really good...
Last edited by Mike Vegas; 04-13-2014 at 01:45 PM.
4 pounds is not light in my book ? ? ? ..... Just Sayin :-))
For a carry rifle, I worked up a Stevens 200 stock, stiffened it with a carbon fiber arrow shaft, pillar & glass bedded it. It is plenty accurate for a hunting rifle. And to get anything lighter, you pretty much have to go with a carbon fiber stock and that is expensive.
When I think of light, I don't think of wood. Especially laminent. Good luck
The inspiration for this build is a Browning A-Bolt Medallion Youth Model that my friend had. It was weighed in at a little under 8 pounds scoped and loaded. I am trying to duplicate that rifle with a adult sized stock. To reduce weight, could I take a walnut stock and hollow the butt and maybe flute (for lack of a better word) the barrel channel? Or would that weaken the stock too much? Laminate is out of the question. Way too heavy.
Last edited by lucky_13; 04-14-2014 at 11:33 AM.
The walnut stock on my Savage LWH is hollow along with the for end. I wouldn't want to play Davy Crockett though and use it as a club. LOL. I'd think you would be fine. I do think there are other ways to go that would be lighter and stronger.
I don't know what your budget is, but you could get the McMillan GameScout. Weighs in at 2 lb.
They who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety.
How light is lightweight?
Removing material from factory components can be a very economical way to do a lightweight/ carbine. I built one a while back by cutting 6" off the barrel (now a 16" .308 + the length of a brake). You might just be amazed at how well a factory sporter will shoot and how little effect cutting it down will have on things such as velocity and or accuracy, especially at practical ranges.
I also cut a pretty good chunk off of the stock. I did have to relocate the sling stud and build new points inside the stock from epoxy for the recoil pad screws to take hold. Also re profiling the recoil pad on a belt sander to fit the new stock profile cut a little weight.
I was kinda worried about the short length of pull at first but quickly found I absolutely love it. It makes the little carbine very easy and fast to handle and really opened my eyes.
I messed around and went with an EGW picatinny rail mount and for weights sake as well as scope height I probably should have used a lightweight or standard scope base and ring set. Because of the height of the mount, I found myself making an adjustable Karsten style cheek rest from Kydex and adding it to the rifle. I put most of the other popular tricks to it as well such as a bolt lift kit, trigger job, bedding as well as a detachable box setup.
Yeah there is still a good bit of room for weight savings a few ounces at a time that could easily be achieved with a factory blind mag setup,removing the brake, and some different mounts and optics ( working on a Leupold ultralight for her) and losing the cheekrest but I'm pretty happy with her the way she sits. That and having the satisfaction of building what I wanted when it wasn't a factory offering. It's 37" overall, very light and compact, and makes a heck of a companion for kicking around, but to tell the truth I haven't weighed it.
If you really want wood then skeletonizing a factory stock may be an option. there is plenty of wood to remove. You can always work miracles with the finish using available products and a little imagination.
Here's mine. It started as a standard model 11GL in .243
A good wife and a steady job has ruined many a great hunter.
Boyd's makes a lightweight thumb hole laminate for around 100$
Savage factory wood stocks in walnut or birch are lighter than a laminated stock. They also have a stiff forend that does not flex like the Savage factory tupperware stocks. Google "Savage Stocks - Numrich" to pull up a list of what is available for Savage SA staggerfeed or centerfeed actions. As already mentioned, you can hollow out the buttstock to shave a few ounces. Contact Savage Arms to purchase a composite DBM frame assembly (surround) and bottom cap that is used on the Savage 11 LWH and wood stocked Savage 11 Trophy Hunter to save a few more ounces. I also order a metal trigger guard to replace the plastic trigger guard since they are more prone to break IMO. Based on my experience and depending on what recoil pad you chose to go with, the bare stock will weigh in at around 32 oz. That is about as lightweight as you can get with a Savage wood stock. That is unless you can find or purchase a Savage 11 LWH stock direct from Savage Arms. But I expect that would be a budget buster.
The picture below shows a Savage 14 American Classic stock that I ordered from Numrich and customized as a compact stock. I shortened the forend by 1 in. and replaced the plastic tip and grip cap with real ebony wood. The original plastic tip and grip cap are lighter. I hollowed out the buttstock and replaced the hard rubber recoil pad with a 1" Pachmyr Decelerator recoil pad. I stripped the finish to bare wood and refinished with Tru-Oil gunstock finish. That is too much unecessary work. On subsequent Savage factory wood stock projects, I just steel wool (0000) the original factory finish and added several coats of hand rubbed, Tru-Oil gunstock finish to get the smooth satin gloss finish I desired. I use a thin danish tung oil on the checkering to weatherproof and protect. Note: The Savage factory wood stocks have a transparent base coat. Be careful not to sand through or chip off the factory base finish and expose bare wood. It is almost impossible to stain and rematch the factory finish to hide the blemish. I also glass and pillar bedded the stock. Total weight of bare stock is 2 lbs, 3 oz.
Last edited by jpdown; 04-14-2014 at 09:44 PM.
That looks excellent! Very good job.
I hate to say it out loud, but it's hard to find a stock lighter than the factory plastic. I have a scoped long action with a 20" McGowan 260 that weighs right in at 7lbs.
The stock came off a varmint rig so it is free floated plenty. The LOP was also shortened a bit to maintain balance. It's my current go-to rig for everything smaller than elk.
"Muzzle velocity is a depreciating asset, not unlike a new car, but BC, like diamonds, is forever."-German A. Salazar
Geargrinder , Savage would agree with you. They would have put a different stock on the LWH but the tooling for the mold would have cost to much for it as they didn't really know how well the rifle would be received.
Resurrecting thread because I have a similar project but looking to get under 6 lbs less scope/rings. Kimber 84M and Weatherby Ultra-lite meet that criteria but are pricey options. Prefer the rifle to be in 260 Rem because I already shoot/reload that caliber but 7mm-08 is a second option.Originally Posted by lucky_13
Lucky: What does your barreled action weigh in at?
The Savage 11 LWH in 260 weights less than 6.0 lbs and it is the easiest way to get under 6 lbs less scope/bases/rings. It has a 20" barrel in LW#2 contour that weights right around 2 lbs. Mine would shoot under 1" with tuned reloads. But I ending up switching it out for a 22" Savage factory sporter barrel in 260 which added about 6 oz to the rifle weight. Total weight of rifle with scope/Weaver GS bases/Burris Signature Zee rings is 7 lbs.
JP: Thanks. Not a big fan of 20" barrels on a bolt rifle and prefer the 22". Talking with Jim at NSS, just not doable if I purchased the components from him.
I've tried to build a compact, light weight carry rifle on a Savage action before they introduced the 11/111 LWH model. My experience has been that it is cheaper to go the Savage 11/111 LWH route and just replace the 20" barrel with a 22" Savage factory sporter barrel or #2 contour custom barrel. A 22" Savage factory sporter barrel in .260 or 6.5 Creedmore are almost impossible to find for sale, but I see a lot of 7mm08 and .308 barrels in the classified section these days. With today's powders and the growing number of high BC, 7mm bullets in 120, 140, 150 and 160 gr weights, a 22" 7mm08 barrel would be a great all-round choice for a short action, light weight carry rifle.
When you say lightweight I think of 3 rifles.
Kimber Montana - 5lbs 6oz older style - The new ones show 6lbs 3oz.
Weatherby Ultra lightweight - 5lbs 12oz
Tikka T3 - 6lbs 2 oz
Light weight to most guys means under 6lbs. I own a weatherby Ultra Lightweight and with the current scope it isn't any lighter than my savage 30-06 sporting a 3-9 scope.
When you think light weight you need to think aluminum bases, rings, light weight scope etc.
It's really easy to have a 8lb rifle time you get a scope, sling, bipod etc.
The margin of difference isn't significant once you stack everything up. Came across a Kimber 84M Classic with rings weighs in just shy of 6lbs, plus the scope will come in around 6 3/4 lbs. Savage 11/111 LWH specs out at 7 1/4 lbs according to the Savage website. Is 1/2 lb that big of a deal?
Last edited by Marine24; 05-23-2014 at 05:13 PM.
Marine24: I am with you. I honestly think light weight guns are over rated and useless. They are harder to balance IMO, kick more, aren't as accurate etc.
I have a $2400 light weight rifle and to be honest my Savage shoots just as good and is well under 3 times the cost.
I have the Weatherby Ultra-Light in 338-06. It is a nice rifle to walk around with, but definitely pushes the comfort zone shooting from the bench and groups start growing after about three rounds. Great elk gun though.
Good price on the Kimber though and nice piece of wood, but does feel like I'm holding a kids rifle.
I wanted a 22" barrel so I bought an 11 Trophy Hunter for $440 IIRC in 260 Rem. Swapped out the scope for a Leupold 3x9x33 Compact and Tally lightweight rings, an Uncle Mikes Mountain sling and replaced the recoil pad with a glued on flip-flop pad. 7.2 lbs. Balances at the front screw, centerfeed DBM, 8 twist, 2 lb accutrigger. A little camo paint someday and it'll be the most bang for the buck rifle I've ever put together.
My 223 Stevens and 300WSM A-Bolt also share the same scopes, scope height, rings, slings. All three are nearly the same weight, same LOP, trigger pulls, 3 position tang safety, etc.
Last edited by Bigfoot; 05-26-2014 at 10:23 AM.
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