Reloading Equipment question

[tufrthnails]

Okay so I have a oportunity to take advantage of my good friends generosity and current situation. He has plenty of money and no where to reload. He lives in south Florida and comes to central Florida every other month on Business. I have a 20x30 air conditioned (window unit) shop on the property with plenty of spare space to put a reloading bench. He wants to buy all the gear to reload and the consumables for his ammo. All I have to buy is the Consumables for my ammo he is even going to buy the dies for my caliber (.270 win) that he doesn't shoot. So my first question is what books do we need to buy first. Second is if you had $1000 bugdet what would you buy that is what he has agreed to spend on equipment. He wants to buy a kit off the shelf, but I have seen to many of you guys talk about different pieces you do and don't like from so many kits my head is spinning. Also we will first be reloading rifle ammo and later pistol ammo. I already shoot $100 ammo a month, which is not much for most of you, but as someone told me earlier you never spend less you just shoot more which sounds awesome to me.

P.S. Someone pinch me I may be dreaming.

[psharon97]

First I would start with a good quality reloading kit: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/937...ProductFinding.
Next, you need a good all around reloading manual: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/639...loading-manual
Keep in mind, this is a generic but great manual to start off with. It has everything from safely reloading, bullet casting, powder burn rate charts. It doesn't have everything, but it can get you started.
Personally I prefer RCBS dies for rifle. I don't have a preference for pistol, just ensure that the dies are carbide.

[barrel-nut]

Sweet deal!! What kind of shooting do you do? Is it precision target, just plinking, hunting, all of the above? Reason I ask is if you are wanting volume, I'd go with a progressive press. If you want smaller quantities of (potentially) higher quality ammo, I'd go with a single stage press.

[earl39]

if you are both just starting to reload the single stage is the best way to start because you have to do one step at a time.

[barrel-nut]

if you are both just starting to reload the single stage is the best way to start because you have to do one step at a time.

Agreed. The only reason I mentioned the progressive press is that he mentioned doing pistol ammo too later on. It can certainly be done on a single stage press but it gets very time consuming when you try to do large volumes. I do my revolver loads on a single stage press because I don't own a progressive, but I'd probably shoot it a lot more if I had a progressive. But you are absolutely correct in that you can't beat a single stage for learning the basics.

[tufrthnails]

I am leaning torwards a Progressive press because of the amount of ammo he shoots. He shoots a lot of 5.56. By a lot he said 1000 rounds a month is a low month. Myself 3 boxes of pistol and 2 boxes of rifle at the range once a month is about my budget. I was trying to get an idea of how much he really would need to reload he said he typically takes about 10 mags each trip to the range and goes once a week. I asked his wife and she said he goes almost religiously on sat morning. I plink and hunt and wish I could do both more.

[rjtfroggy]

First thing I would get is a RCBS Rockchucker supreme kit and dies,a good digital caliper, then a Charge Master followed by the prep station and lastly the vibrator shell cleaner. All from RCBS,customer service and warranty are second to none. I have stuff that is 40 years old and replacement parts are normally free of charge, probably why I am a big fan of them.
It goes without saying shop on-line and look for sales, usually Natchez has good prices.
Choose more than one manual and read them through, then ask questions.

[Rick_W]

Dillon RL550B - semi-progressive. Can load single stage (without having to change dies) or progressive by turning the shellplate. I can reload 100 cases in about 15-20 minutes taking my time.

Look for some used reloading manuals on ebay or used bookstores - if you already have an idea of what bullets you want to load look for a reloading manual by that company. But you can never have too many reloading manuals.

A good scale, balance beam or digital. Don't scimp on the scale. Once you get the powder drop set up properly, you'll only need to periodically check the accuracy. I generally throw 10 charges prior to a reloading session and average the weights.

A set of calipers and a case trimmer.

Dillon also has an outstanding - NO-BS - warranty and great customer service. You break a part you can generally call them right up and they'll ship it to you no charge. They are also available talk to you on the phone and walk you through any set-up problems.

[yobuck]

Mostly your going to hear guys say this is what i have, buy this. Fact is any of the name brands will work for you.
A step at a time is a wise approach. Just try not to have it turn out to be a step in the wrong direction.
Eventually your own preferences will begin to take shape. I have 4 presses fastened to my loading bench.
All are for rifle/pistol cartridges and none are a progressive type. But, id like one of those also for pistols especially.
Reason for 4 is that in my 60 + years loading my mind has changed on certain things. Yours will also.
I personaly dont like package deals because they always include things i dont like or want.
If you would wrestle me to the floor and make me give up all but one of my presses, id opt to keep the Redding turret model press.
Reason is you arent screwing dies in and out as often, and it is faster for loading pistol and other large volume jobs.
Accuracy is equal to my Redding boss press. RCBS, and LEE, also make turret presses.
I prefer hand priming, but the standard press attachments will get you started till you can decide for yourself which tool/method you like.
I would advise you just use a standard beam type scale at least initially. Ive personaly never felt the need for a different type.
Buy yourself a decent set of dial calipers. The plastic jobs might be ok but id be spending a little more for something better.
You will find a good selection on ebay for $50 or so. Standard type dies like RCBS or LEE will work fine. Redding is slightly more expensive but also very good
Dont be affraid to shop for used ones on ebay. Ditto for all the other things you will be buying. Good presses can be bought for dirt.

[barrel-nut]

As others have stated, the first thing you need is a few loading manuals. Try to get at least 2-3 of them, preferably from the bullet manufacturers that you think you will most likely use. Each will have a section describing the process of reloading and explaining the various different steps involved. Some will also have a section that describes, in detail, what happens to a loaded round when it is fired. It's more complicated than most people realize. The Hornady manual has a good section on this. The better you understand what happens to a brass case when fired, the better you will understand how to properly put it back like it was before, which is critical to good reloading practices. I also like the Sierra manual.
If you are planning on loading 1200+ rounds a month, I can't in good conscience recommend a single stage press. You will be a very busy man trying to keep up with that much ammo on a single stage. Even though the learning curve will be a lot steeper on a progressive press, I'd go ahead in that direction, and just take your time, ask lots of questions, and make certain that you thoroughly understand exactly what you're doing, and how everything is supposed to work and be set up before you attempt the first round. The Dillon that Rick W suggested sounds like a good place to start. Reloading is not rocket science, so don't get too overwhelmed by all the equipment choices and contrasting advice that you will encounter. But do remember it's definitely not something to take lightly, either. So educate yourself first, then wade through all the choices, and hopefully you will get the right equipment for you the first time around.

[Vince]

Dillon RL550B - semi-progressive. Can load single stage (without having to change dies) or progressive by turning the shellplate. I can reload 100 cases in about 15-20 minutes taking my time.

Look for some used reloading manuals on ebay or used bookstores - if you already have an idea of what bullets you want to load look for a reloading manual by that company. But you can never have too many reloading manuals.

A good scale, balance beam or digital. Don't scimp on the scale. Once you get the powder drop set up properly, you'll only need to periodically check the accuracy. I generally throw 10 charges prior to a reloading session and average the weights.

A set of calipers and a case trimmer.

Dillon also has an outstanding - NO-BS - warranty and great customer service. You break a part you can generally call them right up and they'll ship it to you no charge. They are also available talk to you on the phone and walk you through any set-up problems.

I would throw in a Rock Chucker and some hand priming tools as well.
One progressive press and one single stage. That way you have all the bases covered. Don't scrimp on a good scale and powder measure. I use a Redding balance beam and a Redding BR powder dispenser. From what you describe you have different needs in reloading but even a spray and pray type shooter will find need for a good single stage press. If you were both in to precision shooting as opposed to your buddy's spray and pray type shooting I'd suggest a Forester Coax press and say be done with it.

[tufrthnails]

I am going to order 4 books to start with, Lee Precision Modern Reloading 2nd Edition, The ABCs Of Reloading: The Definitive Guide for Novice to Expert 9th edition, The Complete Reloading Manual for the .270 Winchester, and Hodgdon Annual Reloading Manual 2014.

[tufrthnails]

I am not going to be the only one reloading. He will be doing some as well when he comes into town. I am just the ginnie pig to learn the process and recipes. I like the idea of a single stage and progressive press. I am going to see if it is in the budget. One great thing is I have no time crunch. He understands as well that this is a process not something you master over night. Thanks for the input when the books get in and I get a chance to sit and do some reading I will write my questions down and bounce them off you guys.

[Rick_W]

I would throw in a Rock Chucker and some hand priming tools as well.
One progressive press and one single stage. That way you have all the bases covered. Don't scrimp on a good scale and powder measure. I use a Redding balance beam and a Redding BR powder dispenser. From what you describe you have different needs in reloading but even a spray and pray type shooter will find need for a good single stage press. If you were both in to precision shooting as opposed to your buddy's spray and pray type shooting I'd suggest a Forester Coax press and say be done with it.

I have an older RCBS JR press set up right next to my 550. :-)

[Vince]

Another suggestion:
Your first book should be, "The ABC's of Reloading"​.

[tufrthnails]

Thanks that is one of the four I ordered.

[tufrthnails]

Convinced James (buddy with the funds) that I would rather start with quality single stage and reduce the learning curve before going to progressive, since a lot of you have said you have single mounted as well as progressives. So the Rcbs Rock Chucker supreme master kit is in route found it for $259 shipped, bought digital scale and deburring tool from a guy on another forum for $50 (figured could always sell scale if I prefer the bar scale), RCBS .270 and .223 dies to start with, RCBS manual trimmer with pilots and shellholders, Cheap tumbler, Digital calipers, RCBS pocket primer swager. Total is just over $500 does that sound about right and is there anything else I "have" to have to get started. Been reading for a week now and my head in topped off! Rocker Chucker kit comes with speer manual so that makes 5 books I will have to reference. I found a store in Napels, FL that has powder and primer in large quantities in stock which is not exactly local but he can swing in on his way up here on his next trip. Who do you guys buy your consumables (powder, brass, primer, casing, and bullets) from? FGW looks like you may get to make my signature happen!! Also what is the life of a reloaded round? Can it be stored 5 years, 10 years? Just curious my thinking is it should be able to last as long as a factory made round, but I just don't know.

[earl39]

the price doesn't look too bad. as for brass powder primers I buy in bulk so most of mine comes off the internet. as for the shelf life properly stored reloads can last almost as long as factory loads improperly stored they probably will not last as long because they are not sealed with some type of sealer much like military rounds are sealed

[tufrthnails]

Yo buck and FGW you guys can prob answer my next question. How does our FL humidity effect loading and storing of rounds and the components? My shop is air conditioned (window unit) but not insulated. I have no issues storing ammo in my ammo safe in the house, but what about the powder I would rather not store 8lbs+ of powder in the house I would prefer to lock it in the metal cabinet in the shop, but I am also not going to keep the shop air conditioned 24/7 (I could just imagine the electric bill from that). Should I bite the bullet and buy another cheap safe for powder and reloading components and keep them in the office/ spare room also?

[tufrthnails]

as for brass powder primers I buy in bulk so most of mine comes off the internet.

What sites do you use when you purchase? I have been looking and having a hard time finding 8lbs cans. As I understand it you can only purchase 20lbs of hazmat (retarded .gov making money we shipped tons of haz in the army safely) 16lbs of which can be powder. Is that correct? For my first run I am going to pay more and buy from LGS to practice and see what I like, but the plan is to buy in bulk once I have figured out what I like and what is availible.

[earl39]

What sites do you use when you purchase? I have been looking and having a hard time finding 8lbs cans. As I understand it you can only purchase 20lbs of hazmat (retarded .gov making money we shipped tons of haz in the army safely) 16lbs of which can be powder. Is that correct? For my first run I am going to pay more and buy from LGS to practice and see what I like, but the plan is to buy in bulk once I have figured out what I like and what is availible.

there is a maximum weight for a single hazmat charge and I am Not sure what it is but I do know from most places you can get a case of powder Plus a case of primers 41 hazmat charge which most places is 22 to 25 dollars that is a case of powder which I am calling 4 8 pound jugs

[tufrthnails]

oh okay that is a twice what I was thinking thanks for the info.

[barrel-nut]

I though it was 50 lbs max? Some places will let you ship powder and primers under one hazmat charge. Others won't. If you're just buying a couple 1lb cans, you're probably better off buying locally, unless they're really gouging. I do try to buy from my LGS as a first choice, as he does not gouge. But availability has been very spotty for the last few years, so sometimes I'm forced to buy online and deal with the hazmat fees. I've bought larger quantities like 5 and 8 lb cans from Cabelas online. They're often offering $20 off if you buy over a certain $ amount, or free standard shipping, which either way pretty much takes care of the additional $ for the hazmat fees. Edit: when buying larger jugs with discounts like this, it comes out the same or a little cheaper than buying 1lb'ers locally.

[yobuck]

Well first off i do zero shooting and loading in florida so i cant answer your question on the humidity.
All my loading and hunting/shooting is done in Pa or on a trip elsewhere. For me, Florida is for fishing.
Keep in mind tho the whole east coast has high humidity with some places no doubt as bad as Florida.
I have and still use powder that is ww2 surplus powder. Ive also had some that went bad sitting near stuff that didnt.
Keeping it dry to my mind is the important thing. G I ammo cans would no doubt do a good job for you for storage.
There are other types of larger military storage containers available on the internet for peanuts as for cost.
I personaly dont use the internet other than Midway or Sinclairs and then never for powder.
I think youve made good decisions thus far with your choices. If you are or think you will become a large volume user
the progressive is a good choice. So save space for that. That type of loading will be somewhat different than you will be
doing with the rockchucker. Again i think youve made a wise choice by learning the basics first. The job i hate most is case prep.
That being trimming, case mouths and primer pockets primarily. Especially if your looking at a pile of cases you need for a prairie dog trip.
Be thinking about a power tool or tools to help with that.

[barrel-nut]

You mentioned buying another safe to store your powder in. I don't think that's a real good idea. You want to store it in a container that is fire resistant, but yet allows the powder to vent gasses with low restriction in the event of a fire. Powder will burn vigorously under all circumstances, but explosively if confined in a tight space where pressure is allowed to build up. (think rifle chamber, or tightly sealed safe). There are storage cabinets made specifically for this purpose if you want to go that route. Here's a good link to information on this subject:
http://www.alliantpowder.com/getting..._handling.aspx