Savage LRP rear screw? Help

[globalflyer]

Hello fellow members.

I'm the owner of a Savage LRP in 260 REM. I plan on bedding the action to the HS precision stock and to do so, I need to remove the trigger guard and bottom metal. It seems that the rear screw holding that trigger guard is glued in from factory... The manual states that the rear screw should never be tightened since this could damage the stock? My question is, how much force needs to be applied to remove that rear screw? Thanks for helping me out, I'm afraid to break something!

Globalflyer

[globalflyer]

Nobody replied to my post yet... Basically I'm asking if it's safe to unscrew the rear screw holding the trigger guard without damaging something.

Thanks.
Global

P.s. Any help is greatly appreciated

[drybean]

I never have had any problems removing rear trigger guard screws

drybean

[foxx]

Yeah, don't worry about it. They say that because it does not need to be removed unless you are replacing the trigger guard. I suppose if you do it too much it will get sloppy and not want to hold. It's just a wood screw.

[clintsrv]

If it's the HS Precision stock it's probably a fine thread machine bolt threaded into the aluminum bedding block in the stock. Is it a smaller hex size than the action screws? Both of my HS stocks use a real fine thread machine screw similar to the threads found on the swivels. Might just have to put some torque on it but not too much!

[globalflyer]

Its exactly that clintsrv. I have an HS Precision stock and the rear trigger guard screw is a smaller hex size screw compared to the action screws. I tried unscrewing it but it seems pretty tight in there... I was just making sure to take all necessary precautions prior to breaking something.

[globalflyer]

By the way, I wish to thank everyone who replied to this thread. Much appreciated! I will proceed with caution

[clintsrv]

I believe the hex size on mine are 9/32. They were not too much trouble to get off. I know the feeling you're experiencing though, once it's stripped or broke its a real nightmare then. I've always used a "T" handle Allen wrench or the Wheeler FAT wrench for added leverage over a basic 90 degree Allen wrench. I'm sure once enough torque is applied it will pop loose with a noticeable "crack", you'll think the worst just happened and it'll actually be loose with no problems. I've had that happen on other projects before. Good luck!

[globalflyer]

Thanks again clintsrv. If it were not for my barrel not being straight in the stock channel, I would leave my LRP (as is) since its shoots pretty tight groups. The problem is more esthetics and I'm a little OCD! lol. The aluminium block in the HS precision stock seems to be more in contact on the R/H side compared to the other side. This has a negative effect as I torque the action down to move the barrel towards the left and that bugs me! Anyways, I'm sure a (good) bedding job will not hurt accuracy one bit.

Globaflyer