Reply With QuoteLooks like your on the right track to me...soon you'll be buying a barrel wrench, an action wrench and be constantly checking the classifieds for parts and barrels LOL...welcome aboard...to the brotherhood of the barrel nut...
Hey guys! This is my first post! I tried to do some searching but could not find what I was looking for! I wanted to get into rifle shooting and ended up buying this rifle. It is my first Savage and I am pleased with it. However I have some questions. The model in question seems to have been taken down from the Savage website and replaced with just the Model 11 Trophy Hunter. The version online is the upgrade from mine which has a Nikon scope. Mine has a very cheap Bushnell scope.
I do not know that much about rifles. As I understand, this is a short action and comes with a Bushnell 3-9x40 scope. Its very cheap and most of the things I found online indicate it broke after shooting anywhere from 10-40 rounds. My reticle already appears to be slightly off balance after 15 rounds.
Ive ordered Vortex 1" scope rings, a Nikon Prostaff 4-12x40mm BDC scope and what I believe is the correct scope base. I was not sure if I could just replace the scope rings that came with the rifle, but a review online stated that he had to buy the base as they were not spaced correctly for this scope.
This is the base I ordered:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just want to confirm that what I have ordered will work fine. Its through Amazon so returns and exchanges are not a big deal!
Thanks for the help guys!
Here are some pictures of the rifle!
http://imgur.com/a/R3Hl9
Looks like your on the right track to me...soon you'll be buying a barrel wrench, an action wrench and be constantly checking the classifieds for parts and barrels LOL...welcome aboard...to the brotherhood of the barrel nut...
I think you'll do well to go ahead and spring for the better mounts and glass.
I'm not sure they break quite as easily as your research indicates but the "cheap" scopes always seem to pick an inopportune time to crap out. There is a huge difference in the light gathering ability for hunting at dusk and dawn and the clarity which helps seeing where your bullet is hitting at range. This is not always apparent when looking through a scope at a retailer but the first time you look through it as the sun is rising or setting say in a hunting situation, the difference is profound.
Any particular reason to go with a base that's canted 20 MOA? (that puts your point of impact roughly 20" high at 100 yards) so if everything was centered and adjustments are 1/2" at 100 then thats 40 clicks down to strike the bullseye. 1/4" adjustments would be 80 clicks.
Personally I prefer a 0 MOA base because most of my shooting is under 500 yards and I prefer the reticle to be centered rather than near the limits of my adjustment range.
The manufacturers make what sells and tacticool and zombie stuff seems to be selling thanks primarily to all the online "operators". For a serious long range rifle that will primarily be used for 500+yeah there is a place for a canted base. Other than that, All the tacticool operators just have to have the canted ones to make 1000 yard shots on zombies and stuff.
Just my $.02
A good wife and a steady job has ruined many a great hunter.
I just started with all this, so I really didnt choose it for any reason in particular. Just that it would fit my rifle so the scope would actually go on it! I think I will be happy with the Nikon Prostaff 4-12x40 that is coming in the mail today. Im sure as I shoot and learn more, that I will want other things!
I do hate this trigger though. Its not the accutrigger and its super heavy. Any ideas?
Start here:
http://www.varminthunters.com/tech/s...10trigger.html
And BHJ is correct, you may not have enough adjustment in your new scope to even get close to zero at 100 yards. But you won't know that until you get it all assembled and try it on paper.
Other than possibly not needing 20moa, that is the correct base for your rifle.
Last edited by Hotolds442; 04-04-2014 at 04:46 AM.
Originally Posted by keeki
Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways
Thats good info. Actually the scope just arrived and is on, without the base. There was enough room for the spacing thats on the rifle already. So it actually went on. If I wanted to move it further back or forward a lot, I would need to use the base.
Since it works without the base, I should probably just return it ey?
I have another dumb question. If I look for stocks or accessories, I never see the model 11. Is it the same as the 10/110/111? So if I see a stock for a savage 111, its the same?
All 10/11/12/16 or any two digit model # is short action, 110/112 or any three digit model # is long action. If magazine box stays with action when separated from stock it is staggered feed. if magazine stays with stock it is center feed. Short action & long action are different & not interchangeable. Staggered feed & center feed are not interchangeable. For more info, take a look at Boyds stocks & Stockade
10, 11, 12 - short action - like .308, .243, etc...
110, 111, 112 - long action - like 30.06, .270, etc...
Does that help?
Good luck with the new toy.
PS - you were 60 seconds quicker on the draw, shortie.
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
That really helps a lot guys. Thank you so much! Its an 11 in 308, so def a short action!
http://www.boydsgunstocks.com/produc...4810&cat=1215#
This should be it. Its an 11 short action. Top button bolt release. Has a removable magazine.
When in doubt, call. Good folks there. Easy to get along with and willing to help.Originally Posted by JackImpact
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
You could use the rings and bases that came with it but the package gun mounts like package gun scopes aren't exactly known for their quality and ability to hold zero. There are lots of good options though. Maybe you could swap the one you received for a 0 MOA model if you want a picitinny style rail. A set of standard Leupold or Burris bases and rings are quality stuff that should serve you well for the life of your setup. If you haven't already you are going to need to determine if it has a flat, or round rear receiver. ( the flat receiver guns haven't been manufactured for a while but you may have gotten a new old stock rifle) The flat receiver mounts are starting to become a little more scarce as well which is all the more reason to go ahead and get a good set while they are available. Good luck
A good wife and a steady job has ruined many a great hunter.
Currently on the rifle is the new Nikon 4-12x40 BDC scope in the new Vortex 1" scope rings. I did not put the 20 MOA base on, it all went on without adding a railbase. I just took the XP package scope rings off.
Wondering what to do with this 20 MOA base now lol
I would use some lower rings. Steel, not aluminum.
Yep. Reason being, ideally you want the scope mounted as close to the barrel as possible, without touching. You will have a better "cheek weld" when aiming and firing. You will want to develop a solid and repeatable shooting form. I am not sure, but I think it also helps to have your line of sight closer to the line of the actual bullet path. Its a geometric thing. Someone else on here might be better able to comment on that thought.
These are just vortex scope rings from amazon. Vortex scopes seemed to be popular and they had good reviews.
Can you guys recommend some rings I might get? Preferably from Amazon.
Thanks!
Also, what can I do about this trigger? Its way too heavy!
http://imgur.com/a/fpwJH
That is called the "Accutrigger". It is a factory original, adjustable for weight of pull. You'll need a little tool that looks kinda like a tiny screw driver with a yellow nob/handle. The tool slips into the bottom of the spring and is used to turn it clockwise and counterclockwise so as to add/remove tension/weight of pull. It looks to me like the previous owner set it to their liking and then anchored it somehow with that yellow material. If you can, remove that stuff and contact Savage parts for a tool. They might charge you a couple bucks, I don't know. While you are at it, ask for an owners manual. It will explain well how to adjust it safely.
I bought this new! That yellow stuff came on it lol
Also doesnt the accutrigger have a bar for safety in the middle of the trigger?
Then leave the yellow stuff there. LOL. What do I know?
Yes the blade in the trigger helps prevent the sear from dropping unintentionally. But to function well the trigger needs a minimum amt of tension of it will partially drop when closing the bolt or gets bumped.
I believe this is the standard trigger and not the accutrigger. I keep seeing posts online where they cut 1.5 coils off of a spring, but I dont know which spring, on what end or how they did it. So Im not about to try it without a good video or instructions! Was wanting to see if anyone else has this trigger and has adjusted it!
Oops. You are right. Sorry.. I never saw one like that. It must be new. I don't think it can be improved. The older models could. If it were me I would get SSS competition trigger ( if top bolt release) or Rifle Basix Sav-1 ( if bottom bolt release).
Im sure the trigger will be a great upgrade. Sucks they are just too far away in Ohio to drive and apparently only do mail order? Its 2014.
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