Reply With QuoteBurris XTR Tactical bases will sit lower and should be as rugged as the EGW.
Adding a cheek piece (Karsten's or maybe an EAgle Stock Pack) may be the ticket for you too.
Adam
I have the egw one piece picatinny rail with burris extreme tactical low rings topped off with a bushnell elite 4200 3x9x40 scope. I have bedded the recieved, and it also has pillars.
I sighted it in, then reconfirmed with 3 shots again last week. It seems to work just fine but that scope could be a lot lower. I got the low rings but I guess the rail also adds height. It's a hunting rifle, and I havn't had the need for a long shot yet, but I do shoot it at 100 yards at the range.
I don't want to go swapping a bunch of parts out if it's not going to make a practical differance. I would like to be aware of my limitations though. Is there a differant ring/mount combo that might be a better choice?
Burris XTR Tactical bases will sit lower and should be as rugged as the EGW.
Adding a cheek piece (Karsten's or maybe an EAgle Stock Pack) may be the ticket for you too.
Adam
Romans 10:9 "That if you confess with your mouth, Jesus is Lord, and believe in your heart that God raised him from the dead, you will be saved."
Looking at the distance from the base to the scope, it doesnt look like you will be able to lower it very much without doing some cutting or rearranging of the scope on the base.
weaver base or 2 piece steel base would be lower.
.223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor
No practical difference whatsoever. Put the scope where it feels good.
A lot depends upon the rifles' stock, and another important factor that steveinwv brought up... What feels good to you.
I like to have the scope down low if possible because I'm a natural stock crawler, but on some rifles that has either not been possible ( AR15 ) or it just didn't feel right.
As far as I can tell, the only kind of rifle where having the scope really low is critical is on a .22LR, or maybe a .17HMR where you will occasionally shoot at very close range. For small game at very close range, having the scope mounted high will tend to make you shoot too low. ( Assuming a 50-100 yd zero )
For big or medium game hunting, all of this is not really much of an issue at all, as long as you don't tilt the rifle over while shooting, or something weird like that.
If it feels good, you're on the right track.
+1Originally Posted by Salvo
This is a problem with this type mount. I have found several times now that I can't always get the scope far enough to the rear for my taste before the bell hits the mount. Something I am working my way around on my 220F I just got. For long target scopes it's usually not such an issue.
Ed Bell, PA Deer Hunter & NRA Life Member ~ “The right of the citizens to bear arms in defense of themselves and the State shall not be questioned.”~
I'm more concerned about accuracy than anything else. It doesn't feel bad for it to be that high.
But I took the egw off and put the old one back on, I think it's a weaver. It's a little closer now. I think it looks better too, for whatever that's worth. I'll take a pic tommorrow. It's just a small differance. I'll probably be resighting it in again tommorrow as well.
EGW HD bases run a little lower that the standard EGW bases.
+1. My EGW base on my 112VLP had this issue. Another thing, when I pulled the .25-06 barrel and put the .260 barrel on, the scope base had to be removed to get the barrel wrench on the nut. I milled the base back just barely behind the front side of the recoil lug. This allows my scope to come back an extra 1/2" or so, plus my barrel/headspace changes don't require scope base removal, and there is still enough picatinny rail left to move the scope ring forward 5 or 6 notches if needed. A little flat black paint on the newly milled end and it looks factory.
I also machined my barrel wrench on the OD so that I am able to do barrel changes without removing the scope.
Did the same thing on my 220F, shortend the mount to the front of the second notch and painted it with a sharpy. Not exacly a high tech coating but it's not noticable.I milled the base back just barely behind the front side of the recoil lug. This allows my scope to come back an extra 1/2" or so, plus my barrel/headspace changes don't require scope base removal, and there is still enough picatinny rail left to move the scope ring forward 5 or 6 notches if needed. A little flat black paint on the newly milled end and it looks factory.
Ed Bell, PA Deer Hunter & NRA Life Member ~ “The right of the citizens to bear arms in defense of themselves and the State shall not be questioned.”~
I've always gone the hi-tech approach............Walmart spray cans. Only the best for my guns. ;DDid the same thing on my 220F, shortend the mount to the front of the second notch and painted it with a sharpy. Not exacly a high tech coating but it's not noticable.I milled the base back just barely behind the front side of the recoil lug. This allows my scope to come back an extra 1/2" or so, plus my barrel/headspace changes don't require scope base removal, and there is still enough picatinny rail left to move the scope ring forward 5 or 6 notches if needed. A little flat black paint on the newly milled end and it looks factory.
What model is your rifle? I'm pretty sure I've got a low one piece for a short action that I'll send ya and if it works for ya, great. ;D How's that for a deal?I'll PM you w/ further info.
tyronne
Did you ever get a Pic ?
I have two Rifles I would like to put one peice bases on but don't want them to high.
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