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Thread: How to: Ejector Install and Removal

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    Basic Member bootsmcguire's Avatar
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    How to: Ejector Install and Removal


    Once again I grabbed up the camera and snapped some pics to demonstrate the installation of the Ejector assembly. And of course by reversing the procedure you can disassemble as well. Let's get started.


    Here we have a bolt head with the Extractor installed, but void of the Ejector parts. Note: always a great idea to clean the Ejector's blind holes with a little gun or parts cleaner. Of course wear eye protection and do in a ventilated area as cleaners often emit fumes.



    Next we need to insert the Ejector Spring into the blind hole. Note: I left this spring sticking out a bit for illustrative purposes. Normally the spring will be below the face surface of the bolt head when fully inserted.



    Now we are going to insert the Ejector Plunger into the blind hole. There is a flat machined into the side of the Plunger, the flat is closer to one end than the other. The "shorter" end needs to go into the blind hole, with the "longer" end sticking out.



    Now, take the Retaining pin and start it into the hole on the side of the bolt head. I am showing it here starting from the side with little flat machined into the bolt head, but some bolt heads allow the pin from either side, and some just from one side or the other so some experimentation on your specific bolt head may be required to determine which direction works best for your situation.



    Now with the Retaining Pin started (shown by the green arrow) and the Plunger started (purple arrow) it is important to have the Plunger indexed so that the flat on its side is facing the Retaining Pin (orange arrow), otherwise the Retaining Pin will not go into it's blind hole due to making contact with the Plunger itself.



    Now with the Plunger indexed properly, I like to use a piece of fired brass and push the Plunger and Spring down into the blind hole. Once the brass has reached the bolt head's face, the Extractor will hook over the brass' rim and thus allowing you to hold the brass as pictured. This allows you to easily keep the Plunger and Spring depressed. Now, hold as shown, just take a small hammer and carefully drive the Retaining Pin (red arrow) into the bolt head. Note: Be careful as the pin is of small diameter and will bend easily. Careful easy strikes with your hammer is all that is required. If it does not go easily recheck all parts for proper alignment as shown above.



    And here is the bolt head with the Ejector and Extractor fully installed and ready for re-insertion back into the action.



    For ejector assembly removal just reverse the instructions above. Be sure to use the proper size punch to drive the Retaining Pin for its blind hole, and often factor installed ones prefer to be pushed from the top of the head towards the bottom ( the bottom is the side with the small flat machined into it).

    Also, if you are trying to remove a retaining pin on a bolt head with the ejector stuck in the down position, especially due to a blown primer, soaking in Kroil is a great way to help it loosen up. Also in some circumstances the retaining pin will actually get bent internally and jam internally causing the plunger to get wedged between the pin and the bolt head itself and often times are a real pain to remove. There is no sure-fire way in that situation, but Kroil is a great start.
    Last edited by bootsmcguire; 02-16-2014 at 11:44 PM.
    204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM

  2. #2
    Basic Member Dennis's Avatar
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    Great information, Thanks
    [B][SIZE=3]Dennis[/SIZE][/B]

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    Sticky this please.

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    Basic Member bootsmcguire's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RP12 View Post
    Sticky this please.
    I think Jim is going to move this to the "Savage FAQ" section.

    Looking at those pics again I prolly should have used a prettier bolt face don't you think? LOL.
    204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM

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    Basic Member Hotolds442's Avatar
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    That one is pretty representative of what's been coming out of the Savage factory lately.....
    Originally Posted by keeki
    Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways

  6. #6
    Basic Member bootsmcguire's Avatar
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    Sad part is that bolt face came out of an action that dates 1971 or '72 can't remember which. She's an old girl that's been rode hard and put away wet I have a feeling, but she still works fine and brass is ok so I just keep rolling with it.
    204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM

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    Basic Member Hotolds442's Avatar
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    Lol I'm working on an F06xxxx right now from 1989 that looks just as bad. But the trigger on that thing is sooooo smooth.
    Originally Posted by keeki
    Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways

  8. #8
    Team Savage jonbearman's Avatar
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    You might put a rag in front of the bolt head so as not to have it spring out and be gone forever.
    Willing to give back for what the sport has done for me!

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    Ah, youse guys! (PA hick speek)


    Place the bolthead face down on a rag then using a small flat blade screwdriver thne push the extractor in toward the center. The bolthead will capture the junk and it will be laying on the rag when you lift the bolthead. Nuth'n will go a fly'n!

    Do the same for the ejector, bolthead face down then tap the retaining pin out with a punch. When the punch is removed more junk will be laying in the bench.....maybe!



    Bill
    Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.

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