Reply With QuoteA new mag is needed. Is it stamped creedmore or something else.
i have a mod. 10,lrh max 1..it's a 6.5 creedmoor..when chambering a round, as it clears the mag. lips,the following round kicks up the rear of the brass and it enters the chamber rear high and gets stuck..i then have to back the bolt off a hair to allow it to drop down and chamber straight..tried everything with feed lips and no luck..looking in the action while slowly working the bolt it appears the feed lips are simply too short and the mag. follower kicks the brass up before it's close to chambering..[center feed detach. mag.] anyone else run into this?? if so is there a fix or is it CDI for different bottom metal..appreciate the help..Rich
A new mag is needed. Is it stamped creedmore or something else.
Willing to give back for what the sport has done for me!
no such mag.,,they shipped it with a .308
The 6.5 Creedmoor, 308, 243, 7mm-08, 260 etc share the same magazine.
I have a Model 111 in 7mm Mag.Mine will cycle fine,but once in a while the round goes half way in and stops on something.I back the bolt up a hair, and close the bolt with no problem and I'm ready to fire.And I don't work the action fast.I will pay attention to see if its the last round or not.It feels real solid when it does stop.I thought maybe the crimp was getting stuck on something.
I just took a look at my chamber area.The bolts cycles good with no cartridges.I don't have any live ammo.I wouldn't cycle live ammo in the house any ways.So I got a flash light out and took a peak and the feed ramp looks like someone used a ax on it.It has a bunch of rough half moon marks on it.I bet if I cycled the bolt faster it wouldn't hang up.I think I found my problem.I will have to do something about it though.
My cm does the same thing. If I work the bolt fast, it feeds fine. A pain in the butt if i work it slow. Haven't worried about it yet, I'm gonna do some work to it this spring figured I will fix it then.
I had the same exact problem with the same rifle/chambering. Same tool marks and everything. I used a piece of wood dowel (3/8" I think), made a slit down into one end with a utility knife and slipped a piece of sandpaper into the slit. Put the dowel into a drill and went to work. Started with 400 grit, then 600, then 1000, then finished with 1500 grit. Worked great and it fixed my feeding issues. I've since done it on my 300WM, .270 and 338-06. The feed ramps are shiny and smooth!Originally Posted by Idahokid
iusmc2002,you are correct sir,just poor machining and finishing on savage's part.They probably did a whole bunch like that and just shipped them.
Willing to give back for what the sport has done for me!
I heard a pencil eraser on the back side of 600 grit works well also.Eraser so it sticks on the paper.Next time it does it,I'm going to stop and see if the cartridge is loose are tight.I'm also going to stop and see if I can see the hang up.
I have a LRP in 6.5 cm. I have the same problem with feeding rounds from the magazine. i am also concerned with the machining of the rifle and fear that i got a lemon. i get some scratches on the radius of the shoulder of the case. i also get dozens of scratches behind the ogive of the bullet when i chamber and remove the round from the chamber. links to other threads would be very helpful. thanks
I can't help you guys too much with the scratches without having the rifles here to see them, but might be able help a bit on feeding the short and fats.
I went through the same agony when I put my 250Imp sporter together, all kinds of trouble feeding from the mag.( staggered feed). It was a royal pain removing the mag, tweak it, put it back on, try it, pull it...... why I made this, another one of my award winning gadgets.
With that work of art I was able to "tune" it on the bench. To make a long story short the biggest factor was the follower spring pressure, less of it. It only needs enough to move the next cartridge up into position for the bolthead to pick it up, not launch it up up and out. It also makes the feed ramps( lips) of the mag less critical. They only have to be be "tight" enough to hold the cartridge in position. By putting more or less tension on the front or back of the follower the angle of the cartridge feeding can be controlled.
The CM is essentially the old wildcat 6.5-250 improved but with a 30 degree shoulder so the same approach should work. I've only tried feeding them from a centerfeed mag one time, a hinged mag by leaving the floor plate partially open as a crude way to adjust the follower spring tension.
Here is the 250 feeding from the mag....http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=...D#.UwYRxaKa8vk
Bill
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
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