I use a barrel vise and wrap two layers of file folder cut as long as the vise, or just a little longer. I put the barrel in the vice with the paper wrapped around the barrel at the thickest point determined with a caliper. tighten the vise nuts evenly not using too much force. They need to be tight, but over tightened.
Using a 2 to 3 pound hammer, I pop the barrel nut wrench a few times (after removing the front scope nut) and the barrel nut has loosened every time.
Many use two pieces of 2x4's in a vice. Either way, I have never damaged a barrel, but I always use common sense when removing one.
Dennis
[B][SIZE=3]Dennis[/SIZE][/B]
Part Deux.....the nut will not come off the barrel. I wrapped it in leather, in the vice, worked it, soaked it in PBlaster etc. Right as it gets to the end, where it should come off, it gets stuck. I don't want to mess it all up now...sheesh....any advice? Thanks, kb
Keep working it back and forth. Eventually it will come off. If not, screw it all the way to the muzzle end and look for damaged threads. They can be cleaned up with a triangular file usually.
Originally Posted by keeki
Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways
Thanks Hot, I figured that would be the answer. I did find a couple flatted threads, got them fixed up. I'll just keep back-n-forth, wish I had a thread chaser. It's Mongos' fault. kb
Good Grief....Hot, it must have been waiting for me to send out another SOS, no sooner did I run it back to the muzzle, put a couple drops of oil along the way, it spun right off. I don't know wether to laugh or cry. Thanks again to all for your input. kb
Ah...hum..well.... a few flattened threads usually means the front mount screw in the ring was too long and smashed'm, not mention it probably wasn't doing much to hold the mount tight either!Originally Posted by COplains
Another old gunweaker gadget.....
A length gauge used to measure the mount screws BEFORE installing them.
Bill
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
My thoughts exactly Bill, I'm measuring where I found the flats, looking at "end-of-threading" i.e. where the bluing starts again in the reciever and the barrel, although the barrel doesn't show much, to see where the barrel was originally. I didn't notice any 'loose' during take down but I wasn't really looking either. From looking at the barrel again, I'm guessing the action screw was too long after whomever did the bedding...removed material, bedded, prob never checked after that. kb
The front action screw should be under the bolt lug, not even close to the barrel.
Originally Posted by keeki
Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways
That's what I thought, but after running across a flat, have to check. There was a section about 3 threads wide by maybe 1/4" mildly flat,,had to get there there some way, but you were right, not even close to the action screw or anything else. By the way, Bill, can I come hang out in your shop for 2-3 days? Have a number of gadgets I'd like to make and don't have the tools for any longer...laffin.
The Scope base Mounting Screw is the usual culpritThe front action screw should be under the bolt lug, not even close to the barrel.
If ya bring beer and ya aint' afured of dogs. I have three Chihuahuas, miserable little mutts!
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
Thinkin my upland bird dog would find the mutts tasty....grinz....and Colorado has lots of brews!!
Coplains and Hotolds, I think billpa was referring to the front scope base mounting screw, not the front action screw, as pins pointed out.
Barrel Nut, my photo was in response to this, not anything Bill had in his post.
Originally Posted by keeki
Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways
Gotcha, I missed that. My mistake.
no worries barrel-nut...I knew what was being pointed out. The flat I think came from some mishandling somewhere along the line, no other explanation. As it turns out, the front action screw was long, by just a touch over 1/32". Its all good now. Headspaced and ready to go play. Now if I could just get over my phobia of messing with my wood stock, I may see what sort of purty I can make it. kb
Thank you. I'm looking at my first rebarrel soon. This helps.
Turning an axis .233 into a .308.
Boyd's stock first then the barrel.
Using Tapatalk
I split the last nut mongo put on...
What action wrench should I buy for future mongo nuts?
I too thought the bead was to blame but last one was a blued action
The Wheeler action wrench is the one I use. I have no complaints other than I had to notch out the area for the recoil lug tab to clear.
12F, McGowen 6.5x284 1-8" twist, Nightforce 12-42x BR<br />BVSS, McGowen barrel, 22-250 1-9" twist, Nikon 6-18x<br />16 FHLSS Weather Warrior, Sinarms 257 Roberts, Pentax 3-9<br />Stevens 200, 223 bone-factory-stock, Nikon 3-9x<br />Scratch-built BVSS, LW 243 1-8" twist, Viper 6.5-20x50 mil-dot
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