Reply With QuoteThat's about as good as it gets, you answered your own question. The only way to go lower, is with serious modification, or change out the trigger for one of a different design.Originally Posted by cranebird
I changed out the original spring with a spring from a ball point pen. The lightest spring I've been able to find is 2 lb 10 ounces on a trigger spring scale. I'm thinking it's no longer the spring tension issue but the tension of the overall trigger design. I tried shortening the spring and it wouldn't hold the cocking mechanism until I stretched it out but it didn't pull any lighter on the scale so I replaced the shortened spring with another out of the ball point pen pack to be safe. I'm happy with the results over the stock tension but was wondering if anyone else had better luck ?
That's about as good as it gets, you answered your own question. The only way to go lower, is with serious modification, or change out the trigger for one of a different design.
You "must" have spring tension for preload on the trigger, that is a given. You can take the spring completely out (FOR TESTING ONLY WITH A SAFETY CHECKED AND UNLOADED RIFLE) to see what the weight is. That will tell you your absolute minimum pull weight with the geometry and or friction you have in that particular trigger set up. If you want it lower than that you will have to swap out triggers or modify the existing geometry.
I did it on my Accutrigger and got it down to just a hair over 2 lbs and have not had any issues so far.
Thanks for the responses. I'm going to leave it where it is since the next steps are beyond my abilities.
Thanks again
Ivan
Yeah, the accutrigger is a better system. I am glad to see they started putting them in the Axis. All I have to do is convince the wife that I need the one with an accutrigger........
Why not put an accu-trigger in the gun you got?
I don't think it is worth the price of a accutrigger replacement. I modified my existing system with a ball point pen spring and came ounces away from where the above persons trigger pull weight is at with adjusting his accutrigger. It was less than a $1 to mod it after you break down the cost of the pack of pens and I still have a spare spring after messing one up by cutting it too short. I have been watching used accutriggers go on Ebay, they are running higher than I would have ever guessed. One might better buy a brand new Basix than a used accutrigger from Ebay. I am not unhappy with the trigger, I was just trying to get an opinion to better than what I have, if it were easily remedied. Thanks again for the help. This site is great.
Polish it....
Ebay is a the most expensive place to buy a used accu-trigger. The classifieds are the way to go. I've picked up all my accu-triggers from $20-$50 on this and other forums. The $15 for the paid membership here pays for itself in no time.
The 'best' way to modify the Axis trigger (IMHO), since I done all 8 of mine, is as follows:
Remove the factory spring
Replace it with a 10-24 Allen setscrew 3/4" long
Get a spring that slips over the setscrew, it will be captured by the setscrew and the dished part of the trigger
Both the screw and a nice long, light spring that you can trim for the desired pull are available at True Value for less than $1, total.
Not only will you have a light, safe trigger, you can adjust the screw to eliminate all over travel.
I also have 4 M12s with Accutriggers and both myself and my shooting buddies prefer the modified Axis triggers to the Accutrigger.....
To each his own, I guess....
ron
I did that and used superlube Teflon grease.
Finally gave in and surrendered.It is worth joining,I am in the process of getting a accutrigger as well. Thank you .
Last edited by cranebird; 03-30-2014 at 10:45 AM. Reason: updated from previous postings.
Yep, It seemed to have worked for me as well. Thank you !
Last edited by cranebird; 03-30-2014 at 10:43 AM. Reason: updated news
I took a picture of my spring mod. You can see the ball point pen spring screws down into the threaded hole. The problem is either I needed a 10-24 setscrew in the bottom of it or the wire was too thin. The spring collapsed under tension later on down the road and sometimes it would cock and fire and other times it wouldn't stay cocked but if you cocked the handle again , it would fire. I installed the setscrew as n4ue suggested with a 3/16" .023 wire diameter spring cut .600" and twisted down in the threaded hole with the setscrew underneath to control the height and tension, it seems to work very well for me. One thing I did was put the spring in so the ringed top piece is in the bottom so when you adjust the setscrew that it would push evenly on the spring when adjusting the tension. when backing the adjustment out apply tension so the spring readjust down to the setscrew height.
Here is with the light wire spring that failed on me over a period of time. I noticed the wire pushed through the bottom of the yellow stuff so possibly all it needed was a setscrew under it but the sear load tension was a lot for that spring.
Here is the heavier .023 wire spring installed. The tension is better, it works noticeably better than it did with the lighter wired spring you can feel the difference when the bolt is cycled.
Last edited by cranebird; 03-30-2014 at 11:06 AM. Reason: update info
Cranebird, nice picture! Now, scrape out the yellow thread locker and replace it with a 10-24 (long) setscrew. Not only will it ensure the spring won't jump out, you can easily adjust it to remove all the over travel.
The springs I get from my True Value store are trimmed to give the amount od trigger pull desired.
Lastly, I put a minute of WS2 based grease on the sear. This has the lowest known friction properties......
ron
I've always got to go the long around , slow learning curve or whatever you want to call it.I can't change it so I just gotta let it go and keep on moving forward. Listen to n4ue. His system works although I went a slightly different route and got good results. The reason was I couldn't find a suitable diameter spring to slid somewhat snug over the set screw but I did find a 3/16" spring that would thread into the hole and I added a 1/4" long 10-24 setscrew underneath it. It seems to be fine but hopefully you can find the right spring in your area that slides over the setscrew as he mentioned.
Last edited by cranebird; 03-30-2014 at 07:41 PM. Reason: still updating my thread to put people on the right track.
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This time test the function of the rifle before introducing ammo into the equation. Cock the bolt, and thump the butt of the rifle on the floor to make sure the sear holds. Slam the bolt home on closing and make sure the sear holds. Close the action, switch the rifle to safe, and pull the trigger to make sure the sear holds. Release the safety and make sure the sear holds. If all of those tests check out, then you can consider your adjustments safe. If any of the tests fail, go back to the drawing board and start over. Always do a function check without ammo whenever you make adjustments to the firing mechanism of any gun.
Originally Posted by keeki
Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways
Good info here provided by Hotolds442. Thanks.
Last edited by cranebird; 03-30-2014 at 12:26 PM. Reason: updated
Well the .023 spring seems like the sure cure for me. I cleaned the excess grease off and slid a #13 Viton o ring over the stock screws because they bottomed out from my taking it apart so often. I measured the slop that allows the trigger to wiggle which was .032. When I get back on the laser machines, I'll program a stainless steel washer to remedy that. After all this, I think I have sourced a accutrigger and I intend on buying a Boyd's stock for it this coming week. I'm not sure I'm going to install the accutrigger in this one or wait until the 22-250 Axis follows me home.
A huge thanks to all of you for giving me the insight and the courage to do the spring mod on my Axis .243. The pull now is about three pounds but I won't have a good scale for a day or two. Used a 1/2" - 10-24 as the 3/4" looked a tad to long. Picked up a good spring from a farm equipment dealer - about 1 1/2" long that just fit over the 10-24 (about 1/4" d). I cut the spring off at the same length as the factory spring - about 1" and it seemed to function fine.
Put it back together again, worked the action a few times, dry fired a few times, and all seemed fine. Gave it a few good "bump tests" and everything held together. Tightened everything down and ready for the range.
While apart, I cleaned all the grease off the sear as well as the entire trigger mechanism - it really was quite filthy. Polished it up with a glad rag but did not use a compound - we will see how this goes..
I'm glad this thread helped you. I like this accutrigger system. It really is safe to use when you have to resort to jerry rigging it. It would be a real gem if in fact the adjustable feature worked with the axis design.I went with the N4ue system.
This is what a accutrigger with a adjusting feature looks like.
The tool adjusts the spring tension.
This is what it looked like once I ground the sides and I took .055 off from it so it was the same thickness as the stock axis trigger.
The problem is the axis being different, it doesn't allow room for the spring to be adjusted without removing more material or replacing the spring. Sort of back to square one with a good twist . Pictured with the accutrigger is the modified stock trigger with a spring that I revamped to make adjustable by screwing the spring up or down in the threads and held in place by a 1/4" setscrew.
There is a new problem with switching to the boyd stock as the setscrew bottoms out on the stock sending the trigger to fire mode unless the stock is relieved to allow room for it.Rather than grinding any more material from anything, I used the N4ue system instead.
I find a 1/2" long 10-24 worked but the setscrew cannot be hanging out of the bottom as it was in the picture without relieving the stock so I adjusted it flush. The lighter spring is where the accutrigger is a gem. If accidently bumped into fire mode, the sear will only fall to the accutrigger insert without firing. It will not fire unless both triggers are pulled. I like that feature and this rifle is my favorite, the boyd stock is growing on me with time.
Last edited by cranebird; 04-12-2014 at 07:52 PM. Reason: add picture
Great stuff guys, appreciate the shared knowledge.
Hi, glad my 'advice' helped someone.
I forgot to mention that somebody is selling the screw/spring combo on eBay. I guess they couldn't find a 3/4" setscrew and is selling an Allen head cap screw.
This might not work due to clearance problems with the 'head' of the screw.
Of course, there is also a guy selling a lighter factory style spring for $20!!! wow!
ron
One could apply the same to the stock trigger that was done to he accutrigger in the accu-trigger post. It would work the same but without the secondary safety feature that the accutrigger provides. In the accu-trigger link below, notice the trigger mod illustration in post #9 posted by jalmeter29.You can see the difference of the material taken out the trigger to allow the spring tension to be light enough for the Axis system design. I believe You could apply the same technique to the Axis stock trigger and use the stock spring with or without cutting the stock spring if you already haven't done so and basically get the same results ?
http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...2-Accu-trigger
Last edited by cranebird; 04-15-2014 at 10:05 PM.
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