Reply With Quotehave you shot these rds before with better results?
This was taken today at 100yd range with 6mph winds.
I normally shoot prone but today i went to a range and they were only set up for benches. I shot using my bipod with sandbags at the front and rear to take some hop off and make it more stable on the bench.
This was shot with a. 308 10 psr and my scope which has a max of 10x.
I used federal fusion 165gr and 168gr hsm.
Shooting from the bench my groups opened up but in prone they are typically either touching or under an inch at 100yds.
All groups were 4rds as i didnt decide to handfeed an extra in the chamber on top of the mags. No rests were taken between shots and i fired as soon as i was able to rechamber a round. Im wondering if i should get a bigger scope or better stock. Why are my flyers so far? Barrel was already pre fouled. Suggestions?
have you shot these rds before with better results?
Life is tuff.....its even tuffer when your stupid
{John Wayne}
if you have better results shooting the same ammo form the prone I'd say you have a problem with your position. Only other thing that I could think of is that you might have taken the rifle apart and not put it back together the same way, i.e. you didn't torque it to the same specs.
Why would you not take time to make sure every shot was shot as accurately as possible? I understand one wanting to see how fast they can shoot accurately, but it just seems like a waste of time at the range. If your evaluating ammo as to which is best in your rifle you don't rapid fire. Go back to the range, shoot precisely and evaluate again.
Even when qualifying on the range for my job i always shoot fast during zero and actual qual test. I seem to shoot better and more accurate this way. I know its a different game all together so i will try to learn to slow it down. I didnt have much time to shoot today either so i will go back and see if results are the same.Originally Posted by Wildboarem
I havent taken it apart recently. I would agree about position. Im not used to shooting off a bench and it was a little hard to get in a good position.
You in the military? I have zero'd and qualified like this when I qualified for the Army. When I'm at the range with my rifle and my ammo I take my time and concentrate on the basics. It might seem like a pain but it helps in the long run as it'll take less and less time do to them on the next range trip. I'd recommend the same when you take your personal range trips.
Yes im in the army, 12b. Will do, ill slow it down and do the fundamentals. It definately is a pain especially when youre used to getting sharpshooter or expert no matter what. I think next time ill remove my bipod as well and try soley on bags. I used range bags that you rent out but i think im going to purchase my own.
When your shooting for qualification your shooting at a silhoutte that you just have to hit. In the "tactical" or precision shooting world your aiming at a "smaller" target, so next time your our see what taking your time does.
Yeah roger im tracking. Also, my vision isnt as good anymore thats why im thinking of upgrading to a 14x or 16x scope and putting the 10x on a new hunting rifle. I definately cant see the holes at 100yds.
I would go with the high visiblility targets before throwing a higher magnification scope on there. Alot of people, including alot of military units, use a 10x scope on their rifles.
10x should be enough. I like to shoot at white paper with a stick on 1" orange dot on it. This makes it easy for me to see the holes with a 9x scope, at 100 yds, and I doubt your vision is worse than mine.
Good Luck-Good Shooting.....Jim
Also you might look at a scrap piece of carpet to put under the feet of your bipod when shooting from a tabletop as the hard surface tends to make the bipod hop around more.
"And you shall know the truth, and the truth shall make you free.” John 8:32 (New King James Version)
Something I thought of should've thought sooner, if you really want to see your shots you should invest in a spotting scope. It'll allow you to see the holes without using a higher than necessary scope magnification.
Thanks for the advice. Also, finally got the courage to bed my rifle. Everything is apart and im taping the barrel to free float it. Do i tape the barrel until the rear end of the receiver and tang line up with the stock line or does it matter?
typically what I do is run a piece of tape the length of the barrel, from the crown down to the recoil lug. I'm assuming that is what you are asking? Make sure you get a good release agent, I didn't do so well in that aspect once and it sucked.
Just a single layer of tape? And no im talking about making the clearance to free float the action stress free. Ive built up several layers of tape at the end and middle of the barrel and in doing so the tang is riding high in comparison to the top of the stock. Adding more tape drives it closer to the stock line but is also effectively decreasing the amount of free float for the tang. Im using plumbers putty and clear kiwi for release.
To free float the tang, just put a layer of tape on it. What is the "stock line"? In tapeing the barrel, you should install the barrel in the stock, and look at the relationship of the barrel to front of the stock barrel channel. If it's where you want it to be after bedding, rap the barrel with tape to the diameter of the barrel channel so that the barrel sits centered in it. Then the barreled action should be sitting on the pillars, and the tape around the barrel at the front of the stock, with the tang floated by a thickness of tape.
Hope this helps-Good Luck.....Jim
Ok, sounds like i need more tape on the barrel then because the tang definately isnt free floated by th thickness of a layer of tape. More like 1/4"
When i get back to the house ill take some pictures so yall can see what i mean and if doing it right.
Ok here is the stock prep. Is that how you properly block the rear action screw? How tall do my clay dams need to be?
Have you watched any of the films on bedding, such as the ones on YouTube, etc. ?
Yes i have. There was one i seen that was pretty detailed for savage but i cant find it again.
No turning back now. Just epoxied it so if its wrong i guess well see. I have epoxy spilling out down tge action screws and a lityle out the sides.
Looking at a video it looks like i should have used a lot more release. Hope i didnt screw myself.
I do not like people saying 10 power is more than enough. Not every one has 20-10 or even 20-20 vision.
I can see well enough to shoot a deer at 200 yards with 10 power, but that is not what I use for precision shooting on paper.
is a great idea, but remember your group size will typically halve when you double the scope power. I always use targets that open up, but my scope at 24 power can read the labels on the targets at 100 yards and can see where the bullet hit easily at 200 yards.I would go with the high visibility targets
Don't be afraid to back out the bolts after a couple of hours, some people actually remove the action after a couple of hours and then add more release and put back together again for 24 hours.
I shoot my 308 fairly fast, about one shot every 20 seconds. But after about 10 rounds I let it cool down some. Actually I usually switch to a second rifle to shoot.
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