Do you NEED the ejector/extractor to establish proper headspace?

SERE VG · 01-10-2014, 02:15 PM

Do you need the ejector assembly and extractor assembly installed to properly head space your barrel?

I can't find them in stock anywhere. Signed up for email alerts and back ordered at Gun Shack. Want to get my barrel swapped so I can get it painted and closer to being completed. Going from WSM to 260 so none of the bolt head parts carry over.

Hell, it seems like I could actually fire the gun with out those parts. I'd just need a cleaning rod for extraction! lol.

Thanks

Vince

**drybean** · 01-10-2014, 02:28 PM

they are not needed to head space

drybean

**thirty06** · 01-10-2014, 02:31 PM

No you don't. Go ahead and set headspace and add the parts as you get them.
I thought the extractor assy. was the same.

**BillPa** · 01-10-2014, 04:42 PM

Originally Posted by SERE VG

Do you need the ejector assembly and extractor assembly installed to properly head space your barrel?

I can't find them in stock anywhere. Signed up for email alerts and back ordered at Gun Shack. Want to get my barrel swapped so I can get it painted and closer to being completed. Going from WSM to 260 so none of the bolt head parts carry over.

Hell, it seems like I could actually fire the gun with out those parts. I'd just need a cleaning rod for extraction! lol.

Thanks

Vince

You can order all the push feed bolthead parts directly from Savage. They're not restricted parts.

P/Ns...

Extractor 100139
Extractor ball 100214
Extractor spring 100257
Ejector 100129
Ejector spring 10031
Ejector retaining pin 100130 (If you want or need one)

I don't think I missed anything.

Bill

SERE VG · 01-10-2014, 05:21 PM

Thank you all for the info!

When I called Savage I was also trying to order the bolt head and was told by a obnoxious service rep that all bolt parts had to go through a FFL. I'll save the rant on that conversation and their policies for another day.

**BillPa** · 01-10-2014, 07:55 PM

Originally Posted by SERE VG

Thank you all for the info!

When I called Savage I was also trying to order the bolt head and was told by a obnoxious service rep that all bolt parts had to go through a FFL.

A bolthead yes, the parts for it, no. I've ordered and received those parts numerous times.

Bill

**Hotolds442** · 01-10-2014, 08:18 PM

Bill,
is the part number for the Ejector Spring correct? It looks like it's missing a digit.

**bootsmcguire** · 01-10-2014, 08:20 PM

Hey Bill,

Is the ejector spring's number missing a digit by chance? I only ask because I see that all the part numbers have 6 digits except the ejector spring which only has 5. Just thought I would ask.

**jerry shaw** · 01-10-2014, 09:11 PM

I think I spoke to that same lady.

You might try to order the parts using the partfinder page on the Savage website. I haven't looked that closely at bolt parts, but several of the parts I DID look for were available for order directly off that page.

Or check with Numrich's. I picked up some things from them recently.

Good luck.

ShawneeB · 01-10-2014, 10:42 PM

Actually it's best and common practice to strip the bolt as far as possible, whenever possible, firing pin, extractor, ejector.

**thirty06** · 01-10-2014, 11:16 PM

Originally Posted by ShawneeB

Actually it's best and common practice to strip the bolt as far as possible, whenever possible, firing pin, extractor, ejector.

Why ?

SERE VG · 01-10-2014, 11:20 PM

Thanks again,

I realized the front baffle might be different as well. I threw one on my order when I ordered the firing pin assembly and some other parts. Once the baffle comes in, I'll go ahead with the swap. I'll call Savage on Monday and order the final parts.

I would like to tune the ejector(?) so it does not throw my brass very far. I'm thinking of ordering multiple ejector springs and trimming them to adjust the tension. I searched but did not find a thread on this. Probably using the wrong key words to search.

Any threads on this? Am I on the right track, with trimming the ejector spring?

Thanks again for the help, it's been invaluable on this build.

Vince

**jerry shaw** · 01-10-2014, 11:57 PM

The primary reason is so that the ejector doesn't force the headspace gauge too far forward. We want to ensure that the headspace is minimal - or at least not excessive.

By removing the ejector, the bottom of the case head (or head of the headspace gauge - this could be confusing...) rests squarely on the bolt face. The gauge can't be pushed forward by the ejector.

I set my headspace using a go gauge only. I screw in the barrel until it nearly locks up with the go gauge. Then, I tighten the nut to make sure it's nice and snug. I then cycle the bolt a few times to make sure I'm comfortable chambering the gauge. I can always feel the gauge seat as the bolt goes fully into battery. It might be a bit snug compared to what other folks do, but I load my own ammunition and size my cases to accommodate the snug chamber.

I'll check it with a no-go gauge afterward, but there's pretty well no chance that the bolt will come anywhere near closing on that gauge if I do as I just described.

I hope this makes sense

If you have any other questions, this is a good venue to get semi-informed answers.